#26
IP: 71.168.64.77
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In addition to the safety wire, I have installed a spare shaft zinc on the
shaft for additional protection against the shaft spinning out. |
#27
IP: 216.81.94.73
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What's the safety wire?
Quote:
I'm a new owner with plenty of wet behind my ears, and don't know what you are referring to regarding a safety wire on the shaft coupling. Could you elaborate on what it is, where to get it, maybe a pic from someone? Not knocking the previous owner, but there are a lot of issues that I need to learn and take care of on this boat to bring it back up to speed-- it sails and the engine runs, but I can see that there's a lot of deferred maintenance going on here. But then it wouldn't be a sailboat if there wasn't an endless to-do list, would it? ![]()
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JonnyQuest Boatless right now. (Last boat, a fine 27' O'Day 1975) MS Gulf Coast |
#28
IP: 206.125.176.3
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![]()
JQ, here ya go. I edited your earlier pic with some instructions. I am also posting a pic of my old coupler which still shows the safety wire in place..the locking nut is not visible.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) ![]() |
#29
IP: 216.81.94.73
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Thanks for the pictures--that cleared things up for me perfectly!
Scratch one easy thing off the to-do list.
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JonnyQuest Boatless right now. (Last boat, a fine 27' O'Day 1975) MS Gulf Coast |
#30
IP: 173.166.26.241
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Quote:
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The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#31
IP: 74.243.33.42
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Got some new photos of engine compartment
Quote:
Link: http://gallery.me.com/thomasbaileyjr#100139 What do ya'll think? Thanks again, JQ.
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JonnyQuest Boatless right now. (Last boat, a fine 27' O'Day 1975) MS Gulf Coast |
#32
IP: 24.152.131.220
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JQ,
Please forgive me if I assume skills not in evidence but it seems to me the engine box could be extended forward a few inches quite easily. I believe the actual carpentry would take maybe a couple of hours. It would afford you all the room you would need at the flywheel end of the engine for an additional pump (required for FWC).
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#33
IP: 193.253.220.149
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FWC electrical pump
Here's a photo of a quick installation of an electrical pump in the fresh water side of a FWC circuit. It is located in a cockpit locker about 2-3 feet from the manifold at about the same height as the engine. One of the blue hoses runs to the header tank which is installed just on the other side of the locker box (plywood walls). I chose the Johnston pump used by Indigo in their FWC kit.
I have not run sea trials but am satisfied with dock trials thus far. The pump is currently wired through a dedicated circuit breaker on the main electrical panel before I eventually install it with current coming from the ignition circuit. For now, I have to manually flip on the switch to power the pump. I also continue to chase and replace smaller circuit plumbing fixtures in order to minimize overall resistance to flow.
__________________
Kelly 1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda Ketch, Wind and Atomic powered ![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to Kelly For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#34
IP: 173.166.26.241
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JQ - Kelly has posted a nice picture of the bulkhead option for the antifreeze loop. You certainly have the room for it. I agree with Neil's comment about extending the panel in front of the engine forward. Then you could run your mechanical salt water pump right off the crank. At the risk of emptying the barracks I would suggest that two mechanical pumps are usually the best arrangement if you can fit them into the space and don't mind the additional cost (which is considerable). Hanley
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#35
IP: 24.152.131.220
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Kelly and others,
When installing an electric pump on the ignition circuit (totally logical) please consider the added amperage on the circuit. This could involve replacing the ignition wiring to a larger gauge wire and perhaps a higher rated ignition switch, fuse or breaker, etc. Of course, size matters but motors can be a significant draw, especially at 12V. In the electrical industry it's a code requirement that circuits are designed to carry a maximum of 80% of their rated capacity in amperage. So, if you have a circuit comprised of 20 amp components (12 gauge wire, 20 amp breaker) the maximum allowable design load on that circuit is 16 amps. It's a policy that results in a trouble free system.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#36
IP: 173.166.26.241
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Neil's comments about loads in ignition circuits call into question the continued use of standard keyed ignition switches. I have always been suspicious of them and most recently have done away with them on my boat. Also, a #14 wire just ain't gonna git it anymore what with the addition of electric fuel and water pumps. I have resorted to the equivalent of a #10 wire thru a bat handled switch to oil pressure switches, which I now carry as spares much like a fuse backup. A separate momentary button handles the starting circuit.
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#37
IP: 24.152.131.220
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Hanley mentions a component I hadn't considered and learning more about his system on this thread I should have remembered.
In his case - and perhaps others - most everything engine related goes through an oil pressure safety switch. The rated amperage of the switch is a factor too. Since I don't think there's much choice regarding the amperage of oil pressure switches, if there's a need, a N.O. relay of sufficient ampacity is a solution.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 11-25-2010 at 11:03 AM. Reason: changed 1 word |
#38
IP: 173.166.26.241
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Some numbers for oil pressure switches. NAPA # OP 6624, also 6620 and 6626. I have been carrying both fuel and water pumps as well as instruments and ignition on one of the above but after reading Neil's comment above I'm going to calculate the loads. Either a relay or multiple switches on the "oil pressure distribution block" may be in order.
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The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#39
IP: 74.243.33.42
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Quote:
![]() I'm going to have to make do inside the existing confines of the engine compartment. (Besides, I suck as a carpenter)
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JonnyQuest Boatless right now. (Last boat, a fine 27' O'Day 1975) MS Gulf Coast |
#40
IP: 74.243.33.42
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Quote:
The increased electrical load is a consideration, and I have a friend that is good with electrical who I can solicit to help me on-site. I do have a push-button starter switch, but need to check the wire gauge again--probably needs to be upgraded along with fusing. how big is the header tank (got a photo?) and can it be placed in the locker box as well? What are the installation limitation for this? (if any) Thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving to you all.
__________________
JonnyQuest Boatless right now. (Last boat, a fine 27' O'Day 1975) MS Gulf Coast |
#41
IP: 173.166.26.241
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Ain't nobody happy unless...
That being the case you should focus on the electric options. If you choose the Indigo pump they want you to use it for the antifreeze side. If you choose the thru hull mounted baitwell pump like mine you can use your engine pump for the antifreeze. Either way you need exchanger and header tank. With your layout I recommend the combination from Moyer Marine or Indigo. I also recommend you eliminate as many angle fittings as possible. The electric pump should be on an oil pressure switch. You may be able to incorporate some features from my Engine album.
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The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#42
IP: 173.166.26.241
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A header tank is nothing more than a pressurized reservoir with a cap for adding antifreeze. The hose from the neck under the cap goes to the overflow tank which also feeds the system as needed. Here is a picture of mine, but is probably not right for you. It seems you would do better with the exchanger/header tank unit.
Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016 at 08:36 PM. |
#43
IP: 24.152.131.220
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Quote:
Regarding a header tank, you may not need one other than the HX itself. The purpose of a separate header tank is to provide a fill point for the antifreeze that is at the highest point of the FWC system. Most heat exchangers - and ALL the HX's I've seen for the A4 - have an integral pressurized fill cap. The 2 instances I can think of where a separate, higher fill point is needed is when a water heater is installed and the hoses to and from are routed higher at some point than the HX, and the case where there's insufficient space above the HX to conveniently pour antifreeze into it. If neither of those situations apply there's no need for a separate header tank.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#44
IP: 193.253.220.149
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Quote:
The pump is oriented horizontally in accordance with the included instructions that you can find here. The manufacturer allows for both horizontal and vertical installation with a preference for upward-directed output flow. I do not have a photo of my header tank but it resembles the one in Hanley's recent photo. The header tank would need to be the highest point in the circuit for obvious overflow considerations. And as a basic electrical, plumbing, sailing and life philosophy, I always try to keep the distances between fixed points to a minimum. Right-angles in the plumbing are to be avoided as well. P.S. Neil: Ampacity?! Really?
__________________
Kelly 1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda Ketch, Wind and Atomic powered ![]() Last edited by Kelly; 11-26-2010 at 02:27 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Kelly For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#45
IP: 24.152.131.220
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Yeah Kelly, get me talkin 'tricity and I get in the zone. Guess I'm a product of my industry.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#46
IP: 193.253.220.149
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current carrying capacity
Excellent! I couldn't find it on dictionary.com but wikipedia came to the rescue.
__________________
Kelly 1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda Ketch, Wind and Atomic powered ![]() |
#47
IP: 74.103.39.3
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Just installed mine and it is powered off the ignition circuit instead of the oil pressure switch. The pump spins when the key is turned, but so what? Is there a danger in that?
Thanks, Micah |
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TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
#48
IP: 24.152.131.220
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Micah,
Assuming the electric pump is in the antifreeze loop as per Indigo instructions, no problem. Further, I read that the pump draws 1.2 amps @ 12 volts which should not significantly tax the existing electrical components. Nice looking install.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#49
IP: 173.166.26.241
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Do keep in mind, however, that during cranking the voltage will be somewhat lower, and the amperage higher. I would give this one a little more thought.
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#50
IP: 144.160.98.31
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I installed the Moyer FWC system into my 1978 Catalina 30. Needed to relocate my batteries to the cabinet under the navigation station. This was required to gain space to fit the heat exchanger and expansion tank into the engine compartment. Also needed to cut a 4 inch square access hole into the engine compartment, on the bow end. Needed this to have access to bolt down the pulley for the new pump. Installed a salvaged mahogany door to cover this. I posted some pix in an earlier post here. Let me know if you are not able to find this. Take care, Russ
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The Following User Says Thank You to rheaton For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-22-2024) |
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