#1
IP: 24.224.152.244
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Paragon 2:1 reduction gear lubrication.
Hi guys,
I had a member PM me re: lubrication of Paragon 2:1 reduction gear. I thought I read there was a lubrication port between the engine supply and the gear assembly. Can someone confirm this. I have a 2:1 reduction gear out in the garage on my spare engine and there are no drain or fill plugs that I can see for gear oil. My C&C 30 doesn't have a reduction gear so I haven't dealt with it. Any better info than that much appreciated.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#2
IP: 173.166.26.241
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Mo - The 2:1 is fed by engine oil. There is a 1/4" NPT plug on the side for draining.
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#3
IP: 24.224.152.244
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Thanks Hanley...I didn't notice a plug on the one in my garage I have it tucked away in the back...will get a better look at it tomorrow. Hope you are a Bruins fan...I am!
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. Last edited by Mo; 04-29-2013 at 11:29 PM. |
#4
IP: 216.115.121.240
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Yes it is lubricated with the crankcase oil. I think it circulates by wishful thinking, but it works.
Mine has a drain plug (see attached pic)
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#5
IP: 24.224.152.244
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OK...I was looking on the bell itself. Thanks Russ.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#6
IP: 70.51.75.10
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Thanks All
Due to it's location and the lowest point on drive chain is there a recommended service . When I did the oil change on this boat and used the lowest point on engine Do I assume some oil came out of that gear also? |
#7
IP: 173.166.26.241
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When the engine oil is drained some oil (perhaps a pint) will remain in the 2:1. I suppose if you have the plug mounted low you could get a little more out. I don't.
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#8
IP: 108.48.211.208
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I wish I could jam a 2:1 in my C-30. I was really impressed with how smooth Ed's engine was when we were aboard with Russ last year. It would be nice to put on a 'bigger' prop, get the engine RPM up a few more hundred RPM, and not have the prop spinning at 2,200 RPM.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#9
IP: 173.166.26.241
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Quote:
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#10
IP: 108.48.211.208
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i think it is a space problem. I'd have to cut the floor open where you step down from the companionway steps..There is only about 6" of shaft between the coupling and the stuffing box...the stuffing box is already under the floor.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#11
IP: 24.224.152.244
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Shawn,
Don Moyer talks about a few things in the following thread. Might be more to it than we think. I've also heard of changes in the strut angle that would require a reduced prop size on some boats...haven't looked into it a whole lot. http://www.moyermarine.com//forums/s...ragon#post1994
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. Last edited by Mo; 05-01-2013 at 05:13 AM. |
#12
IP: 206.125.176.5
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Mo..excellent info thanks. one of the beauties of the A4 in a C-30 is that it fits...the settee heights are just high enough to fit the A4..most diesels are too tall, and later C-30's with diesels have humps in the cushions.
There might be 1.042" of clearance but I am not sure...might have to cut out the access board for that #1 spark plug.. The other tidbit of 5.5" of shaft length is the kicker..it is close & the 2:1 gear would probably bump into the back end of the galley cabinet. Another problem would be getting a large enough prop while keeping an eye on tip clearance. I suppose a 12" diameter (stock on a C-30) could easily have an appropriate pitch number to match for 2:1. It would be interesting to know what the guys do that convert from an A4 to diesel..Do they move the strut back to get more hull clearance and swing a bigger prop? , or did they move the strut back on the boats with diesels installed later, blah blah, ...etc.etc., or are they running 12x12 props? Just wishful thinking...always engineering something..in the meantime, it is back to real-world issues like getting the engine to run right and planning my deck painting strategy.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#13
IP: 216.115.121.240
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Shawn,
I think blade area has an effect here too. Got to go to work just now, but I look again at Gerr's Propellor Handbook this evening to check. The downside, of course, is drag while sailing.
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#14
IP: 24.152.131.153
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Yeah Shawn, don't you have enough on your plate already??
The reason the A-4 fits in the space on the C-30 is the boat was designed with the A-4 in mind. That limited space, especially the height, was problematic when the market mood turned diesel. The only engines that fit were underpowered and the ones with enough power were too tall, hence the seat hump and forward riser extension. Repowers are the worst because nobody goes the extra mile of shaft log and strut relocation and realignment. One local C-30 repowered with a 3 cylinder Universal M25 diesel has a 30 lb. teak cover box that replaces the aft dinette seat. It's easily 5" higher than the original seat top. I know the diesel snobs argue enhanced value but to me the interior hack job completely negates any assumed value enhancement. Plus, it stinks, is noisy and will loosen your fillings. Some enhancement.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#15
IP: 75.54.23.214
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sorry if I'm thread hacking but,
how hard is it to remove the reduction drive and convert it to direct drive? my friend bought an a4 with reduction and he needed direct.. is he screwed?
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everything's an acid trip |
#16
IP: 24.224.152.244
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Hanley would know for sure. I think it's a matter of unbolting one and on with the other...his current shaft and prop design may be OK for a direct drive if that was what was removed.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#17
IP: 108.48.211.14
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Izzy, the opposite applies from the link that Mo posted about Don Moyer's thoughts. The 2:1 output shaft is offset compared to the engine's output shaft. 1.xx" adjustment in shaft height, and a 5.5" longer shaft would be needed, etc.etc..
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#18
IP: 173.166.26.241
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IMO if you can find a way to use the reduction drive you should. It is always an advantage. If you want to change to direct you will need to acquire a different shaft as well as bearing and plates for the output. A different coupler will also be needed. The best way to make the switch is to find some one who wants the 2:1 and exchange the entire drum assembly and other parts so that you don't have to actually switch out the shaft which is a PIA.
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#19
IP: 75.54.23.214
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i remember him saying he was tight for space... he said he didn't have room for my waterlift muffler..
anyways thanks guys
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everything's an acid trip |
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