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  #1   IP: 65.110.214.40
Old 09-05-2019, 09:19 PM
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Question My task list needs some sorting - Newport C&C 28

First off, I'm a newbie at the boat owner job. So this is going to be somewhat disorganised, and I suppose I'm looking for advice on what I *must* tackle, what I have to tackle, what I can tackle when I get to it, and what isn't really that important.

Right off the git go, this boat had mold and mildew pretty much on or under every surface that wasn't immediately visible. I've tackled the worst of this already - basically washing every surface I can get to easily and a few that took some interesting work. This effort was massively worthwhile, and although not yet 100% done, I no longer end up with a headache and bronchitis after a day on the boat (I'm somewhat sensitive to mold in the air)

1) biggest single issue in my books is the cockpit sole, for one, when the A4 was last overhauled (about 3 years ago now) they cut out a large chunk of the sole to get the engine out. Why? I have NO idea -- I can see quite clearly that even I could have hauled it out through the companionway gap and then out the door. That has been bolted back in and has 2x2 or 1x2 supports under the cutout, and I have a nice wooden rack in the sole covering that. (there are pics, I will try to attach) Furthermore, the tiller post has a huge steel plate around it bolted down from the top of the sole, and two long steel angle brackets on the underside. My binnacle and the support stand are *both* quite wobbly, and on the underside of that there is a fairly large 5/8" plywood sheet that is de-laminating rapidly.

2) When I do try to handle an issue, I end up having to fix electrical. I cannot *count* the number of butt connectors, electrical tape nests and wire changes midrun. I'm a systems design engineer by training and an IT professional at large enterprise scale. I have nightmares about the wiring. And then I have nightmares in the nightmares about the electrical wiring.

3) Transom : I'm trying valiantly to find transfer records for this craft, however I don't have a hull number because the top quarter of the transom has been rebuilt. And I'm no boat surveyor but I'm pretty sure one should not be able to see the matt warp and weft when the job is done. I'm hoping to be able to turn the top of my transom into something that has a straight line... somewhere.

4) tanks. I've already replaced the holding tank. The original was cracked along the length, about 2/3 the way up. I'm going to say that it was not a job I was thrilled with, but I'm a whole hell of a lot happier now, although I already know it was a bit of a hack job, and I'll have to redo part of the job. It suffices for now. The fresh water tank, I now will take and have an inspection port welded into it and that will let me clean the mold and I'm not sure what else out.

5) toerail and staunchon bolt leaks. There are at *least* 5 staunchion bases that are leaking. I'm concerned about the decking and expecting that there will be much grinding, digging and epoxying in my future. And re and reing the bottom side looks like it would be insanely daunting due to the ?? 1 1/4" lip on the inside

6) I have a fuel guage, a speed indicator, a compass and a depth indicator. That is *all* I'm suspecting there are at least 4 other guages I *should* have an possibly 4 more I might want. I see many folks talking about the alarm kit that our wonderful sponsor sells, and I will be grabbing that at some point.


The A4 will be getting the indigo PCV valve kit. The first thing I changed was to turn the sucker in the engine compartment into a blower, and that helped bring the engine stinky down while on the steel sail, but I suspect that kit will help kill that even more. When I was a teenager I rebuilt a chevy straight six for fun, but I don't think I've touched points since so I'm also considering the EI for the A4.

Mostly she runs well, although I still struggle to reverse her out of the slip, and now that I've played with the sails a bit I'm getting her to lay down and fly under sail so although there's a lot of ugly at the beginning I'm starting to really like my 28' "wide hipped" mistress. (I did ask the SO first, and she said I could -- so here I am. -- I just have to get *her* addicted to the boat)



Any helpful commentary, suggestions on reading, photo journals, etc, I'm am *more* than willing to dig into and learn from.


Alistair.
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  #2   IP: 74.211.57.20
Old 09-06-2019, 10:56 PM
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Exhaust Blowers

Don’t reverse the flow of your exhaust blower. Both the Coast Guard and ABYC state that gasoline inboard engines must have one or more exhaust blowers. While the ABYC recommendation is not binding on you (ABYC H-02 Ventilation of Boats Using Gasoline), the Coast Guard requires it, and this requirement is law. Specifically, 33 CFR 183.610 states that, “This section of the regulation addresses boats that have a permanently installed engine with a cranking motor in a compartment. To comply with the regulation one of the following alternatives must be satisfied:
1. The compartment must be open to the atmosphere, as defined in 183.605.
2. There must be an exhaust blower system installed to ventilate the compartment in which the engine is installed. An exhaust blower system consists of one or more blowers with ductwork and terminal fittings attached to the ducts”.
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Old 09-07-2019, 06:37 AM
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Setting priorities

What must be done - safety issues always come first

The list is always huge and asking if something is a safety issue or not helps float those jobs to the top

Each spring I make my list in an excel spreadsheet and add a column for priority with safety getting a 1 and other jobs getting a 2 (really want) or a 3 (nice or have but can live without)

Sort on that column smallest to largest...

Peter
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  #4   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 09-07-2019, 03:04 PM
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A single reply with all that needs to be said would be immense. I'll offer a few brief thoughts:

Electrical
Chasing one butt splice after another is never ending, the gift that keeps on giving. I suggest your time would be better spent cutting it all out and starting over. It may seem daunting but there are members here well versed in all aspects of electrical design and installation who are willing to help. We've got yer back.

Butchered cockpit sole
Pictures please.

Hull ID number
Read your registration/title paperwork carefully. It should (must?) have the official ID number.

Newport C&C 28
Worthless trivia
The Newport 28 is actually a modified Newport 27 hull which was a C&C design. The modifications were done by the factory (spalling or spreading out the hull at the shear, adding about a foot of freeboard and a one foot bustle on the stern) and I'm 99% certain it was done without oversight or involvement from C&C.

Water tank
If it is aluminum I recommend replacement (I remember Capital Yachts preferred steel water tanks while I was there). Aluminum water tanks develop disgusting aluminum calcite stalactites on the underside of their tops. Please look into polyethylene or similar non metallic tanks for a permanent repair.

Engine instrumentation
We have discussed the zero gauge practice Capital yachts had. There are commercially available engine panels ($$$) or like the rest of us, you can make your own. There are plenty of threads and drawings about it on the forum.

Leaks
Welcome to old boat ownership. Fix them as quickly as they appear to avoid the deeper cancer that will certainly ensue. There is good information all over the internet on deck core rot and its remedy.
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  #5   IP: 65.110.214.40
Old 09-09-2019, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tac View Post
Don’t reverse the flow of your exhaust blower. Both the Coast Guard and ABYC state that gasoline inboard engines must have one or more exhaust blowers......
Please forgive me for not being absolutely clear. I did not have a blower, I had a SUCKER.... i.e. when I obtained the boat it had already been reversed. I, engineering education far in my past, did NOT think that was correct, asked on tihs forum, was advised that my thought was correct, and rectified the situation.
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Old 09-09-2019, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
A single reply with all that needs to be said would be immense. I'll offer a few brief thoughts:
Neil: Thank you sir, I've spent sufficient time reading here to realize you're well experienced and quite respected:

1) I'm planning on gutting the electrical and rewiring the (at least for the moment) the A4. I'm considering bus bar connections. Forgive the automotive references, but one for all negatives, one for 'active run' one for 'accessory' leaving the start for start only. Just wondering what the overall opinion is on such things.

This though is since I'm considering putting everything I can in a binnacle console and would like to minimize the wires I have to run to the console. I'd like to get a tach, oil pressure, cooling water (flow?/pressure?), fuel pressure and at least block water temp guages on the pod, along with ignition and choke. I've seen the poll about instrumentation. I'm not sure if there are any others that would be of substantial value to *me* at this moment.

2) I have to remove the wonderful wooden cockpit liner I have in order to get good shots of the sole as it really is. But I can see duct tape under that wonderful wooden liner. I've been on the boat when it was raining heavily and saw only one or two drops come through at *that* end of the sole (over the A4). There was a lot of moisture showing up on the binnacle supporting wood, and at least in the half hour or so I spent watching while it poured, I didn't see anything come through in the neighbourhood of the tiller post.
About the only thing I can do is post current state. It does not show the wonderful wiggle the binnacle can do. Its quite charming actually.

(I'm rather sure your useless trivia has far far more value than you suspect)

3) The registrations (I have the last 4) do not require a hull number, since they are all executed on the same entity in the registry and use the registration number. I've been told that Newport had three 'alternate' hull id locations by someone who *might* know, but he was not sure where those locations were, and I've not found anyone else that knows this information.

4) Water Tank: Not original, poly, and was left with water in it at least *one* possibly two winters in a row. It fits, although not spectacularly well, and is currently empty and disconnected -- there's a plastic welding operation around here that claims they will be able to make me a service port and will be able to put in a more effective fill and breather lines, as well as welding on a pair of supports that will better form to the hull. I'm considering since its possible to clean the poly out and its a fairly large tank that other than the triangle shape making for a hard pressure point on the hull (thus the supports) I think it will serve once cleaned thoroughly.


Again, thanks for your input Neil.

Leaks. Leaks. and more leaks. and prop. And packing nut. and cradle, yup, need a cradle.
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Old 09-09-2019, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aj@yknot View Post
Please forgive me for not being absolutely clear. I did not have a blower, I had a SUCKER.... i.e. when I obtained the boat it had already been reversed. I, engineering education far in my past, did NOT think that was correct, asked on tihs forum, was advised that my thought was correct, and rectified the situation.
Hold it right there. The ventilator commonly called a blower draws air from the low point in the hull and blows it overboard. Be certain it is sucking from below and blowing or exhausting overboard. You have another deck vent without a powered ventilator (a flex hose only) that supplies fresh air from outside to replace the air that is power-sucked out. There is a thread in the USCG Standards category on this forum with the ventilation requirements.

Quote:
I've spent sufficient time reading here to realize you're well experienced and quite respected
Thank you for that but like everyone else on this forum I'm only relating lessons learned, many of them the hard way.

Quote:
I've been told that Newport had three 'alternate' hull id locations by someone who *might* know, but he was not sure where those locations were, and I've not found anyone else that knows this information.
Molded hull ID numbers became a requirement during my employment at Capital (72-73) and at that time were required to be placed at the upper stbd corner of the transom. Any previous owner with a sander could easily obliterate it.
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  #8   IP: 65.110.214.40
Old 09-09-2019, 03:02 PM
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Being very very concise here.
When I got the boat, the blower was hooked up such that it pulled fresh air into the engine compartment. Period. There was no other air line. Hell, the fumes in the cabin, just at idle at that point, made me t think I had made the mistake of my life.
A) I moved the hose from the pull to the push side of the blower. B) removed the cork from the other vent turret, C) added another vent hose to said turret that now comes down under the throttle cable support at the back of the engine, not quite alli the way to the flame arrestor, but close. (Lesson learned here.... That exhaust pipe assembly gets hot enough to melt cheesy plastic vent tubing at 3" distance, new vent, new route, more wire ties)
The next issue on the fumes issue was replacing the fuel tank sending unit gasket. That done I've been scrubbing the edges around the fuel tank every week, and removing more of the accumulated gunk as it dries, which has massively cut back on the "gas" smell. I've added, as a temporary measure, 1/2" pipe insulator foam around the engine cover and some foam tape to seal the engine observation 'ports' in the quarter berth.


There is much more work required to properly enclose the engine, but it is much much much better.

I hope that makes things clearer.
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