Pearson 35 Upgrading to 2 to 1 reduction

[jeffgerritsen]

As promised pictures...


The engine compartment at the beginning - NOTICE THE CAN of PB in lower right corner!!!



This is an example of the wire mess to clean up



I have enough room - barley for the 2:1 unit and flex coupler. Maybe a good time to convert to a drip-less seal

[roadnsky]

The specification is 90 - 125 psi. You're still in the bracket, Bro.

Whew! Had me worrying about the higher numbers...

[Administrator]

Is this "sanitation hose"? Even if yes, does this make a difference?

Bill

[ndutton]

Is this "sanitation hose"? Even if yes, does this make a difference?

Heavens YES!
Not for use below the waterline.

[Mo]

Double Clamps

I would change the hose but I note the double clamps. All hoses coming off thru-hulls should be double clamped. Something to look at on our boats and double up if not already done.

When I bought my boat all were single. I replaced thru hulls, hoses and put on double T-Bolt SS clamps.

I live in Halifax NS and there is a Industrial Business Park about 15 minute drive from the house. Goodyear Rubber has an outlet there and reinforced hose for any application can be had...including exhaust. I find it much less expensive than going to a Marine Store and they also have the Heavy Duty SS clamps at reasonable prices.

[Laker]

Sky -

I think those compression numbers are outstanding. Nicely consistent.

Laker

[roadnsky]

Sky -

I think those compression numbers are outstanding. Nicely consistent.

Gee... Thanks!

[jeffgerritsen]

Bill,
It's not sanitation hose - it's a super heavy duty water supply hose used for floating homes. It's clear so one can see the water line, and bursting psi is about 160. A real PIA to work with. The white band is a re-enforcing band moulded into the hose for the PSI rating. The hose is smooth on inside and outside.

Is this "sanitation hose"? Even if yes, does this make a difference?

Bill

[jeffgerritsen]

Hanley,
Are you refering to me or to roadnsky?

The specification is 90 - 125 psi. You're still in the bracket, Bro.

[hanleyclifford]

Jeff - Your wet figures for 1,2, and 3 - 140 psi are high. Too much compression.

[sastanley]

There is also a debate about the dripless seal. If the bellows fail, the boat sinks. I completely rebuilt my boat from the rear main seal to the prop this summer when I wish I was sailing, and I chose the traditional Buck Algonquin stuffing box. With gore-tex style packing, it is almost dripless. I just can't justify the cost and complexity of the PSS (or similar) shaft seals. (see my topic named "Indigo" for more details.)

To stay on topic: even for my C-30, I'd consider a 2:1 reduction drive if I thought it was worth the money though =

[hanleyclifford]

I've never seen a Catalina 30 with a 2:1 reduction gear installed. Can any one post a picture of one?

[sastanley]

Hanley, neither have I, but I'd like to see one..the biggest issue seems to be prop clearance... A 12" prop has only about 1.5" of clearance with the hull if I remember.

The other issue is I am happy with my Indigo prop, but it is not a significant improvement from my 12 x 7 Michigan Wheel 2-blade prop that came with the boat, so I am thinking the next evolution is a properly sized prop with a 2:1 reduction. - it is my theory..not proven.

A Catalina 30 has a 25' LWL with a 10,500 lbs. displacement.

[tony201]

Jeff

Before you do anything , double you compression gage with another one

[jeffgerritsen]

Engine is finally out!!!

Well I've finally got the engine removed. With several ideas floating around on this and other websites, with the help of a fork lift, a long stinger, and a six foot long pipe to act as a fulcrum - the engine is out. Now what a mess to clean up:


Those fibreglass frame rails, I'm thinking about using epoxy coated white oak for spacers to raise the engine the extra 1.042 inches due to the drop in shaft output when I install the 2:1 gear reduction unit. The frame rails are about .375 inches thick so adding motor mounts looks like an exercise in futility, unless I do a lot of cutting and re-glassing.

Any comments on using white oak spacers or should I got to the effort and rig up some system to install motor mounts for vibration reduction?