#1
IP: 68.43.237.0
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How to check Centerboard
Hello fellow Tartan owners. I have a 1968 T27 hull number 372. I have read that the center boards are prone to falling out. How do you check to make sure this doesn't happen?
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#2
IP: 69.203.155.98
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I wouldn't say that the center board on a T27 is prone to falling out, but it could. Normally, with the board deployed you can hear it banging around in the trunk as the boat rocks.
There are 2 attachment points for the centerboard: the fulrcrum or pin that holds to top of the board and the lowering cable attachment point which is a little further down the board's edge. The fulcrum pin is a fairly thick diameter pin that is not likely to wear down, but could. You should see pipe end caps at the top of the centerboard trunk below the cabin sole; the fulcrum/pin is held inside this area and it is below the water line. The centerboard raising/lowering line also goes below the water line, usually through a hose connected to the center board trunk. I find that I have to scrape barnacles out of the center board trunk every year as they grow inside the slot and can cause the board to become stuck. I use something like a small key hole saw for this purpose.
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Tartan 27 #328 owner born 1958 A4 and boat are from 1967 |
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ckohler0529 (07-08-2017) |
#3
IP: 73.28.211.141
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I have a Tartan 34 but the center board is different. It cant fall out.
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ckohler0529 (07-08-2017) |
#4
IP: 50.92.238.107
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T27 Hull 342 centerboard
This spring we discovered our board had fallen off after almost 50 years. I'd say that's pretty good service. But a bummer! Wallet ectomy ensued.
We hauled out to assess and found the 1/2 ss pin was in perfect shape, but there was just a small piece of bronze hanging on the pin (fulcrum). Apparently, the board (steel encased in fiberglass) had cracked, rusted, and fallen apart. The pennant that raises and lowers the board was intact, but not connected to anything except the bushing that was once embedded in the board. If the boat is new to you, I would advise removing the board on your next haulout and examining it closely. Annoying job, but there is no other way to assess it. Getting a new one is expensive, and finding a good second hand one ain't easy either. I now plan to remove the board every four years for inspection and repair.
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Marty 1967 Tartan 27 Bowen Island, BC |
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ckohler0529 (07-08-2017) |
#5
IP: 63.143.240.169
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I did this project a couple of years ago, and rebuilt the thing.
My board was constructed out of two separate pieces of steel. A 4 inch wide, three foot long piece of milled steel was at the top of the board. It had stainless end piece for the pivot pin. The milled steel had the attachment for the pennant. The remainder of the board was the second piece of milled steel. The whole thing was encased in glass. After 50 years, it was not in danger of falling out in any way, but there was water intrusion and rust, so I decided to dive in. My pin was a rather small diameter SS bolt that was bent! I fashioned a new pin out of a 5/8 inch SS bolt. New SS cable for the pennant. I re used the pivot pin attachment piece. I skinned the board, removed the steel, and kept the skins. I had two new pieces fabricated, the 4 inch piece in stainless, the second in milled. I painted a couple of coats of barrier coat on each, glassed them back into the skins. I'm 55. I don't think I'll be doing this again! I posted pictures of all of this on the T27 website. For all the talk around about the complexities of center boards, 15 years of ownership has not been a problem. A couple of times I ran aground and got rocks jammed in there. That's it. While you can sail nicely without the board, there is a significant increase in control and balance with the board. It's worth fixing and enjoying. |
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ckohler0529 (07-08-2017) |
#6
IP: 68.43.237.0
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Thanks to everyone who replied to my centerboard question
Thanks to everyone who replied to my centerboard question. The boat is on the hard right now. I am actually putting it in the water today. The pin and the caps look good, at least I can't see any corrosion. As far as the board itself is concerned, the boat doesn't sit high enough off the ground for me to lower and inspect it. I will lower it when it is in the cradle and take a few photos of it. Thanks again everyone.
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#7
IP: 68.192.213.17
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Good luck today.
When she is in the water, obviously check for leaks at the caps. But don't forget to check for leaks around the pennant hole in between the batteries. You will really enjoy using the board to balance the helm. You can leave the tiller untouched for long periods when things are just right. We may not have the quickest boat in the water, but she is one of the prettiest girls at the dance and is a dream to sail, and can take a beating. Enjoy Skywalker |
#8
IP: 23.16.248.137
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board check
Next haulout I would strongly urge you to have the yard block the boat with about three feet under the keel so you can fully remove the centerboard for examination. Remove the pin, disconnect the pennant from the pulley, and completely remove the board so you can clean it up and repair any cracks with glass and epoxy.
We lowered our board every other year for exam, but could never inspect the top 20% or so. That's where the board failed! My experience aligns with Skywalker's: the board makes all the difference....especially in the ability to point!
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Marty 1967 Tartan 27 Bowen Island, BC Last edited by Marty Levenson; 07-09-2017 at 01:01 PM. Reason: grammer |
#9
IP: 72.194.220.100
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Quote:
Fun to do on long boring passages. TRUE GRIT |
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