Repairing broken exhaust section for temporary use

[jkenan]

I think I already know the answer to this, but wanted to put it out there: Long story short, the exhaust pipe I replaced 10 years ago and still looks good as new (wrapped, from the outside) broke cleanly today right smack in the middle of the short section of pipe comprising the highest horizontal point in the riser (cleanly at one of the elbow joints). I knew something was wrong when I started the engine after a gorgeous sail, and it sounded as loud as it did when I first tested it after rebuilding it (with no muffler attached). Also no water out of the exhaust, and upon inspection, saw a torrent of water that was back flowing from the muffler section due to no exhaust pressure pushing it through. Anyway, I have a broken pipe, and no real way to properly replace it until next week. FWIW, the inside of the pipe still seems solid enough - no real scaling or flaking. So my question is, IS there any safe way to temporarily wrap the pipe to limp through the weekend without the noise or the water intrusion? I think there is enough section on either side of the top horizontal sections (now plural) for clamps, if there were some repair kit available at AutoZone or somewhere similar. Any thoughts, suggestions, or warnings would be appreciated.

[Dave Neptune]

John, there are probably many was to patch but I would onl do so in an emergency.

Also think about exhaust gasses in the cabin.

Dave Neptune

[CajunSpike]

Keeping Dave's warning in mind...and assuming you know the diameter and length of patch needed....I'd find an automotive water hose long enough to bridge the gap and double clamp it to clean strong pipe/fittings.

[ndutton]

If the break is before the water injection (it should be), expect operating temperatures of 500° or better.

[Al Schober]

For the hot section, I'd wrap with a few turns of fiberglass tape. I'd cover that with sheet metal (soup can) held by a couple of hose clamps. If after the water injection, I'd use rubber hose.

[edwardc]

Pictures?

Without a photo, I don't know, but I'm guessing it broke right at the threads going into the elbow. If that's the case, there's probably not enough stub left at the elbow to get a clamp to hold.

I don't remember the numbers, but the threads seriously reduce the metal thickness in schedule 40 pipe. It's why they usually fail there, and why most how-tos recommend schedule 80 pipe. Something to remember while rebuilding it.

[jkenan]

Many thanks for the suggestions and helpful feedback. I decided to bite the bullet, and tackle the whole job today. Removed whole exhaust section(s), which also required uninstall of FWC exchanger (maybe not necessary on other boats, but on my install in the Ericson 29, yes), plus removal of hose sections to remote thermostat (again, on my install). Took over to Deaton's in Oriental, and Gary there was most helpful salvaging the bronze water inlet section I bought from Moyer, but could not salvage the manifold adapter (it broke apart when trying to remove pipe section after torching it - However, they had a Universal part in stock, though without the pressure test threaded port). Anyway, have a brand new hot exhaust section (insulation wrapped and all), which I just tested after reconnecting everything, and while it smoked a whole hell of a lot, that's what I expected, and hopefully will smoke less tomorrow and can enjoy a decent sail with the family. Lesson learned: don't wait ten years to replace hot exhaust. Do it every seven or eight max, and ideally every 5-6 if you're younger and have the energy, or have kids willing to help.