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View Poll Results: Does your fuel system include a Racor fuel filter/water separator? | |||
Yes | 200 | 50.00% | |
Not a Racor, but some other brand | 147 | 36.75% | |
No filter/separator installed | 48 | 12.00% | |
Don't know; not sure | 5 | 1.25% | |
Voters: 400. You may not vote on this poll |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#26
IP: 64.32.196.134
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Our 1976 Pearson 30 has a Fram fuel/water separator. Checked it last fall, just before haul-out: Nothing but fuel came out.
Jim |
#27
IP: 138.88.162.86
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Sierra filters on an aluminum housing with flaking black paint. No idea who made the housing...
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#28
IP: 38.102.16.123
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Quote:
Years ago, I was involved with manufacturing facilities monitored by the FDA. All of these facilities had well documented and rigidly applied rodent control procedures. A few times, when the FDA inspector showed up, we got into a lengthy debate about whether these rodent control procedures were effective. "I didn't see any dead rodents," the inspector would say. "That's a problem!" "And if you had?", we would ask. You can imagine his response. "Well, that's a problem!" What does this have to do with a water separator? Probably not much. I was just wondering if perhaps finding a bit of water, which was almost certainly in your tank to some degree, might have been better than finding none. Bill |
#29
IP: 64.32.196.134
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Quote:
I read an article somewhere, not long ago, that asserted this whole "water in the fuel tank" issue wasn't what people commonly thought it to be. His assertion, IIRC, was that the vast majority of water in fuel gets there primarily from either buying bad fuel (fuel with water in it) or from faulty filler caps that allow water ingress. IIRC, he did some calculations on how much moisture could be condensed in even an empty tank, under worst-case conditions, and determined that it could not be a significant issue. In fact, IIRC, he concluded that it was quite unnecessary to fill a tank to the brim to prevent moisture entering it and condensing in it during winter storage. (I do that, anyway.) If he's correct: Then it's quite possible a fuel tank, even a 32-year-old tank like ours (I assume), could have little-to-no water in it. Or so one theory goes I've got one 5-ga. metal gas can that has occasionally been left empty for a while. Looking into it, before re-filling, I've seen what looks like light surface rust, but I've never seen actual water in the bottom. Jim |
#30
IP: 142.68.101.28
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I'm curious: Why? Is there something special about a Racor filter as opposed to other types for the A4?
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#31
IP: 38.102.16.123
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To be perfectly honest, I didn't think anybody else made one UL-approved for gas inboards. For sure, I thought Racor was the de facto standard.
I was really surprised to learn otherwise. Bill |
#32
IP: 64.32.196.134
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Quote:
Jim |
#33
IP: 158.106.52.10
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Fram on my Pearson 30. Original issue for 35 years...going to replace it with the same one.
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#34
IP: 69.111.164.188
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Fuel filter
I looked fo a Fram but all I was able to find in the Bay Area was a WIX (33436 - 5 Micron
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#35
IP: 192.128.133.68
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Racor from Moyer.
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#36
IP: 70.160.76.102
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Fram filter/separator
It's good to see this thread after my experience today.
Have an Atomic 4 in a Catalina 30, ran fine until couple weeks ago. Now it starts fine, runs like new for about one or two seconds and dies, with full chocke or with ether. Figured it was a fuel problem as with full choke it would start - presumed it was not fuel starved (always would start with a VROOOOM), but too little flow (guessing) after initial start. I decided to start with the tank and work toward the engine. Inside the aft hatch on the counter (under sink) there is a fuel filter mounted inside on the bulkhead - Fram, black metal bowl, orange top, no part number. Center bolt holds the bowl tight. I disassembled the bowl, caught the leakage in a shallow pan. What came out of the bowl looked like reddish-brown soot. I then installed a bulb primer on the line from the tank on the end of the line that WAS connected to the "in" on the filter fitting (the engine has an electric fuel pump with no primer) and started pumping from the tank. The attached picture shows typically what the sediment looked like - this is not from the filter bowl, but from the fuel tank. Looks like cheap red wine on the bottom of the gas. When pumping with the bulb the garbage seemed suspended, but sank and collected on the bottom. The picture shows what remained when I poured off most of the top level of gas. By the way, I don't know the filter system number, it is Fram, but no part housing part number seen - the filter element is a Fram C1110PL. I suspect the red/brown crud is water with GKW (God knows what) contamination from the tank. Pumped out about 5 - 6 quarts and the crud started to diminish, but was still very much "in there." Ran out of places to hold the gas. I will be doing the Racor replacement for the ancient Fram (bowl was rusty/corroded inside). Any thoughts on the contamination? Condensation from the alcohol infested gas that got worse over time?? The tank is likely original, aluminum, and appears to be in good shape on the exterior. |
#37
IP: 70.160.76.102
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Update of filter/separator
Quote:
I don't like the bulb - seems like a new place for a gas leak - any thoughts?? |
#38
IP: 70.211.58.160
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If you haven't already done so, I recommend removing the pick-up tube from your tank and check for a fine meshed screen at the bottom. Both of our Catalina boats had those screens and they were both clogged with crud.
Don |
#39
IP: 64.231.81.11
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Racor yes - intstalled by the previous owner.
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#40
IP: 138.88.16.186
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My system is fitted with the old school "Special Fram Marine" water/fuel separator. Orange top,black steel bottom as pictured above. Works good and filters are not bad,around 15.00. Back in the day Racor did not make a small gas unit. I also have purchased and plan to install a primer bulb.FYI out board primer bulbs are not CG,AYBC approved for install below decks. Flex hoses and fittings must be CG A-1 or A-2 rated. Plastics and rubbers in our fuel systems must be able to withstand at least five minutes of direct flame before burn through. The thin rubber bulbs would not make it. The filter I think makes the best impact is the MMI polishing between pump and carb.
John |
#41
IP: 66.135.114.72
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Have you found an approved bulb?
__________________
1974 C&C 27 |
#42
IP: 206.125.176.3
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gas tank
Hey guys, thanks for bringing this thread/poll up. I hadn't seen it.
When performing Don's recommended pickup tube/screen check, is it safe to remove the pickup with a tank that has been filled for winter storage? Actually, I probably burned off a gallon or so getting to the travel lift, so almost full. Over the winter I replaced the fuel line from the tank to the carb in this fashion: The old fuel line went straight from the tank to the fuel pump, and there were no filters (other than the bowl screen): tank-->(illegal?!) primer bulb-->racor w/ water sep.-->mech fuel pump-->fram (metal) polishing filter-->carb (see update below) EDIT - I have modified my setup after a week of cruising and while troubleshooting what I thought were fuel related shutdowns..(currently I am suspecting a bad coil) - I now only have the Racor mounted in the engine compartment along with the mech. fuel pump & its screen in the top of the fuel bowl. I even (accidentally) burned all the fuel out of the Racor and the mech pump had no trouble re-priming the system. I currently do not plan to re-install the bulb or a polishing filter unless I see a need to do so. I think the cheapy Fram I had was only 10 microns anyway, not any finer than the Racor upstream from it.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 05-26-2009 at 10:28 PM. Reason: update |
#43
IP: 138.88.16.186
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No A-1 bulbs out in the market place,they are for outboards. Surveyors will have an issue , however it's such a good tool for our systems. In the past I would jam a 1 1/2 hose in the fill and blow,pressurize the tank to overcome blockage,so ghetto.
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#44
IP: 138.88.162.86
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Mine has a WM Sierra filter on it with no drain. Its an $8 filter that you just replace each year.
I believe the orange colored stuff in the picts above is watery rust that forms on the steel elements inside the filter. The lower part of my filter is the same color. Its doing its job as the water separates and goes to the bottom. For those with a drain, this will probably come out first. |
#45
IP: 75.139.101.223
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Fram part number for replacement element
Asylum, I believe the Fram part number is CCS1136 for the replacement element. Hudsojo |
#46
IP: 98.207.249.165
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I have a fram in my O'Day and it works just fine
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#47
IP: 98.207.249.165
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I have a fram in my O'Day and it works just fine
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#48
IP: 64.12.116.67
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yes, a SIERRA # 18-7845 fuel/water separator
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#49
IP: 24.152.140.113
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Sierra 18-7845 filter/separator, electric fuel pump with a fuel rated Y valve just before the carb. The third port of the Y returns to the fuel tank. After changing the filter I turn the valve to tank return and power up the fuel pump. This easily purges the new filter in less than a minute. As a bonus, the valve can be turned off when closing up the boat - an added safety in the case if a stuck carb bowl float. I figured the easier it is to change and purge the filter the more it will get done.
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#50
IP: 64.193.4.74
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racor fuel filter
Would you happen to have the part number on that racor and who sells it?
Cap'n Tom Live NOW or die a SLOW death; Live your dreams, don't dream your life. |
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