#26
IP: 184.145.76.14
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This is my experience and feeling re Seafoam also. I have used it in various engines and they have all run better after use.
Quote:
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#27
IP: 75.253.64.171
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As a note, I would more research before adding Sea Foam to an A4 crankcase. Because, I would be concerned about the effect on the clutch friction plates in the transmission. It may have an adverse effect on the surfaces .
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#28
IP: 67.78.241.34
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Quote:
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#29
IP: 174.94.46.99
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Quote:
The general information I see from those who test oil is that it only has a benefit in really old engines that burn oil and should actually be rebuilt. |
#30
IP: 71.253.244.113
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STP may still, but used to have some additives that helped against wear, scuffing, etc. that was a bonus to add to some oils.
And I think it used to have zinc in it too, For a while I used it as a assembly lube.
__________________
Tyring to keep the Bay's Wooden Boat's history from dying off completely. Daniel |
#31
IP: 174.94.46.99
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I used to use it in my 1962 Pontiac. Back then it was a good product, like Fram oil filters, I used them also. Since then though, like many of these companies, they have changed hands and STP is now facing some controversy as to its effectiveness. Like Fram, now owned by Allied Signal is one of the poorest oil filters made according to the recent tests.
There are many of these popping up using what were once good names and now selling questionable products under those names. Singer, who once made good sewing machines is now appearing on late night TV selling hand machines of limited value. Dewalt, one of the best shop tools around went bust and the name picked up by Black and Decker. The new Dewalt tool line is just B&D's Pro line which no one would buy but now Dewalt is flying off the shelves at greatly inflated prices thanks to marketing and consumer unawareness. Bell and Howell is another one. The list goes on.
__________________
Mike 1980 30' C&C MK1 |
#32
IP: 207.210.62.111
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I agree with Old-Sailer on company changing hands, but I still like my DeWalt tools because they stand behind their product.
Having said that, speaking of companies changing hands, what about MMO being bought out by Turtle Wax? Cheers Rick |
#33
IP: 174.94.46.99
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So all their products will have a better polish on them now..
And so did B&D for half the price..
__________________
Mike 1980 30' C&C MK1 Last edited by old-sailer; 02-27-2012 at 04:50 PM. |
#34
IP: 24.62.134.232
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Sticking valves and MMO
Today I tried starting my Atomic 4 and it started once but ran terribly. I had it running fine a week ago. I checked the compression with my thumb- no compression in #1 &4 cylinders, I remembered Don's advice about loosening sticking valves,tried using an allen wrench but then I tapped my engine( carefully) with a hammer on both ends of the block, got compression right away on #1, #4 took a little more tapping, started the engine and its running fine. I've added MMO as suggested hoping that will help with the sticking valves. I don't know if it was intake or exhaust valves sticking, I know exhaust valves are harder to work on. I'm hoping this will help without having to pull the head etc. I definitely need a new thermostat, my engines running cold, PO said thats fine -better than overheating but I know cold running engines can cause sticky valves. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.Thanks
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#35
IP: 74.101.158.133
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Sootydan, I agree with your previous owner - cooler is much better than hotter. I run my A4 without a thermostat, and an ounce of MMO in every 10 gallons of gas, and have had essentially zero issues with sticky valves in 18 years. I put a little extra in with the stabilizer in the fall for good measure over the winter.
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#36
IP: 96.229.18.9
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Hot & cold & oil.
Sootydan, I agree that running warmer is better for wear and power but will have nothing to do with sticking valves. As the engine warms the clearance in the valves is reduced!!! If your valves are getting oil there not going to stick, unless there is moisture and a bit of rusting from lack of oil.
That is why I recommend a top oil when experiencing stick valves. Either MMO, or a good 2-stroke oil in the fuel for a bit mixed at around a 100:1. The oil in the fuel lubes constantly and the valve stems will get a coating when the engine is shut off or on. Usually running a tank or two will clean off the rust and the valve can again be run "dry" with "splash" oiling handling the lubrication! Dave Neptune |
#37
IP: 24.62.134.232
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MMO /sticking valves
Thanks for the input Dave and tenders, I am using MMO to help, and yes, of course cooler is better than hotter, at least better than too hot I read a note from Don Moyers that if your engine isn't running at correct temp you can get sticking valves because of moisture and deposits if i remember correctly. Yes, heat makes things expand, I agree, and I don't want the engine running excessively hot of course. Guess I'll run it as is and see if i run into the sticking problem again. going out today to give it a good run Thanks
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#38
IP: 35.14.170.170
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Quote:
If the parts are made of different materials they expand at different rates, so all bets are off. Think of the brass plug that contains the temp sensor. The brass expands faster than iron block. |
#39
IP: 71.118.13.238
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Noit really
The expansion rates are somewhat similar between C/I and steel however the temps of the valves are drastically different. The exhaust is much hotter than the cooled block and the intake is much cooler when operating.
Dave Neptune |
#40
IP: 99.192.72.153
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MMO in Canada
Quote:
__________________
Nick duBois "Irish Rover" Catalina 27 #4459 Halifax, NS Canada |
#41
IP: 71.107.190.78
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Mmo
Thanks Don. I have always been a big fan of MMO but did not know how to use it in an A4.
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#42
IP: 67.58.212.79
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Quote:
Marvel Mystery oil is available in all Princess Auto Supply stores across Canada!! |
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