description/difficulty of FWC install?

[Kelly]

current carrying capacity

Excellent! I couldn't find it on dictionary.com but wikipedia came to the rescue.

[msauntry]

Just installed mine and it is powered off the ignition circuit instead of the oil pressure switch. The pump spins when the key is turned, but so what? Is there a danger in that?
Thanks,
Micah

[ndutton]

Micah,

Assuming the electric pump is in the antifreeze loop as per Indigo instructions, no problem. Further, I read that the pump draws 1.2 amps @ 12 volts which should not significantly tax the existing electrical components.

Nice looking install.

[hanleyclifford]

Do keep in mind, however, that during cranking the voltage will be somewhat lower, and the amperage higher. I would give this one a little more thought.

[rheaton]

I installed the Moyer FWC system into my 1978 Catalina 30. Needed to relocate my batteries to the cabinet under the navigation station. This was required to gain space to fit the heat exchanger and expansion tank into the engine compartment. Also needed to cut a 4 inch square access hole into the engine compartment, on the bow end. Needed this to have access to bolt down the pulley for the new pump. Installed a salvaged mahogany door to cover this. I posted some pix in an earlier post here. Let me know if you are not able to find this. Take care, Russ

[Michael Edwards]

Indigo FWC w/ electric pump and TCV

I'm about 90% complete on the installation of the Indigo system with the electric pump and Temperature Control Valve. Like others I just didn't like crowding the space at the accessory drive. Locating the heat exchanger in the lazerette is less than perfect, but it is easy to adjust the temperature. I've used more elbows than recomended to keep the lazerette neat. As part of this project I replaced the original raw water pump with the Moyer and also upgraded to the 1/2" belt pulley for the Balmar alternator.
The TCV system eliminates the thermostat and the by-pass hose. The instructions call for carefully flushing block.
My question comes now. Inside the thermostat housing has a black build-up that looks like soot. Its not oily. There's no rust scale. My first thought ran to a blown head gasket at an exhaust valve. My second thought is silt from being in fresh and brackish water for most of the AnnaDor's life. The three spring thermostat was completely blackened, but still operated. Should I be concerned?

[ArtJ]

Old antifreeze looks like dirty black motor. May be what you are seeing.

[ArtJ]

The 3 spring thermostat is a Holley, the most valued and rare atomic 4
thermostat definitely a keeper. They are highly priced by Don Moyer.
You can easily clean it up by placing in a cup of vinegar for a day or 2.

[Administrator]

They are highly priced by Don Moyer.

Hi, Art:

I think you mean "highly prized," although if he could get them, they would certainly be "highly priced."

Bill

[Michael Edwards]

ArtJ,
thanks for the responses. This engine has never had anti-freeze yet. The thrmostat won't be going back in if the TCV works. The two main reasons for my converting are 1) this engine is in good condition and 2) the temperature climbs and drops 140*....200*..140*. The temp guage is exhausted and I admit to anxiety on cool nights when seeing steam illuminated by the stern light.
Michael

[ArtJ]

Hi, Art:

I think you mean "highly prized," although if he could get them, they would certainly be "highly priced."

Bill

I did mean highly prized. Wow what a difference a typo makes !

[hanleyclifford]

Michael Edwards - Just a suggestion: since you will be using antifreeze for the first time and the block has been raw water cooled forever, it is probable a lot of crud has accumulated in the bottom of the block jacket. First prize would be to remove the side plate for a complete clean out. Failing that try putting a (temporary) cheap,say Jabsco, filter in line just before your new electric antifreeze pump. What collects in the plastic bowl will tell the tale. Hanley

[Michael Edwards]

Hanley,
I guess I haven't been trying for first prize. If I don't physically remove the crud I'll risk clogging the new stuff; right? Is it too opptomistic acid flush without removing the starter, alternator and sideplate?
I like the filter plan. Did you mean 'water strainer' when you said filter?
Michael

[hanleyclifford]

The acid flush is a huge step and will do a lot of good. Sorry, yes, I did mean "strainer".

[Kurt]

To do a proper FWC install and avoid headaches later, you really should remove the water jacket side plate and clean out the block as well as you can. My A4 was raw water cooled for 33 years prior to me upgrading to FWC, but was frequently flushed with vinegar and acid (at different intervals). I found black crud and metal flakes in the block upon taking the side plate off. I dug around in there with my fingers and grabbed as much stuff as I could. I also used a small extendable magnet to grab rust flakes out of the block in areas I couldn't reach with my fingers. It is not the most fun you will ever have, but not a terrible job either. If you don't do it now, you will wish you did later. Now that I put the prep work in prior to my FWC install, I have had no problems maintaining a consistent engine temp - no fluctuations at operating temp like I was experiencing before. FWC really helps the engine maintain a consistent operating temp.