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  #26   IP: 173.67.45.252
Old 07-16-2019, 02:23 PM
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I wonder also. It's most unfortunate...lol... well, it's really not a laughing matter.

I've already been looking online about how to hoist it out. I think I could do the work in my sole of my boat and not have to move it very far. If I do, I'll wait till late fall to do when when I'm not sailing. Then it can take me all winter if I want. I'm going to try to patch it and get me through the summer.

If I win the lottery I'll just order a new one and let Moyer put it in...I see the engine prices on the site but I don't see what installation might cost. I'm guessing 1/2 as much as the motor with transport.
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  #27   IP: 173.67.45.252
Old 07-20-2019, 09:43 AM
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I think I have some encouraging news and learned a lesson to not pull the fire alarm until you see flames.

I cleaned up the area around the crack and then got my video scope in place. After starting the engine, I could see that oil was dripping out, not in the crack, but around the lowest bolt.
I think I just have a rear seal leak. That's much, much better news. I looked in the Moyer Repair Manual and it really doesn't show or talk much about how to replace that seal that I could find.

What I'd really like to see is an exploded view of that procedure and the parts so I can get an idea of what's involved. I'll search here for posts that talk about it. Likely there is a good one somewhere. I have practically no room to work in that area but hope I can do this without lifting the engine of pulling the boat out of the water.

Here's a new video showing the drip. Sorry for the quality but my camera is Harbor Freight quality and aside from that, it's hard to control it.

https://vimeo.com/349197977/305d4be89d

EDIT:

I found Don's PDF that talks about the job. I still want to find an exploded view or something so I can wrap my head around what's what. Regardless, Don's directions are great to have.

Anyone want to rent me some tools? Output coupling holding tool (TOOL_07_136) / Output coupling puller (TOOL_06_135) / Output coupling installing tool (TOOL_08_137) I hate to spend $150 on tools I'll use once. Still, cheaper than having someone come do it, I know...
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Last edited by RobH2; 07-20-2019 at 10:04 AM.
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  #28   IP: 70.186.216.53
Old 07-20-2019, 12:19 PM
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Good to hear that the crack is not leaking. That lower bolt extends into the oil pan and oil can leak around the bolt itself. If the rear oil seal were leaking, the oil should be running down from the center of the flange. You can try sealing around that lower flange bolt with thread sealant or locktite. You will first need to drain the oil, remove the bolt and clean up as much oil from the area as you can to increase the chance of success with the thread sealant.

Also, there is still a chance that the oil is leaking around that bolt because of the crack that appears to start at the bolt hole. Even with that, you still may be able to seal it and get through the season.
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Old 07-20-2019, 01:53 PM
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Tech tip video

I highly recommend the tech tip video for this job

https://moyermarine.com/product/vide...s_clip_01_568/

There is a Mac version as well.

Show you exactly what to do, explains typical hiccups, etc.

Best,

Peter
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  #30   IP: 173.67.45.252
Old 07-20-2019, 07:56 PM
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Thank you Peter. That looks great. I need to do a better job finding these assets on the site on my own.
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  #31   IP: 173.67.45.252
Old Yesterday, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim View Post
That lower bolt extends into the oil pan and oil can leak around the bolt itself.
I'm going to try sealing that bolt first. Thanks for mentioning it.

Here is my current solution...don't laugh...it's working. I can run the engine for a couple of hours before I need to retrieve it, strain it back into the engine and put it back.

http://nvision.s463.sureserver.com/p...erOilCatch.jpg
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  #32   IP: 97.93.70.7
Old Today, 10:25 AM
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Rob, be very careful here. Make sure that the crack does not go through the "seals" bosses. You could still have a crack around the seal leaking and not actually the seal and that could be a bit problematic depending on the approach you take.

I had a friend who's A-4 was leaking really bad at the rear seal and the engine ran just fine. So what we did was cut a 5-gallon bucket into a "catch pan" under the drip. This kept the oil out of the bilge and made it easy to track and clean up the oil loss. He ran like this until he sold the boat many years later. The new owner said he was going to have it fixed properly and I doubt he did.

Dave Neptune
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Old Today, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
Rob, be very careful here. Make sure that the crack does not go through the "seals" bosses. You could still have a crack around the seal leaking and not actually the seal and that could be a bit problematic depending on the approach you take.

I had a friend who's A-4 was leaking really bad at the rear seal and the engine ran just fine. So what we did was cut a 5-gallon bucket into a "catch pan" under the drip. This kept the oil out of the bilge and made it easy to track and clean up the oil loss. He ran like this until he sold the boat many years later. The new owner said he was going to have it fixed properly and I doubt he did.

Dave Neptune
Ok, Dave, thanks. I'll heed your warning. Yep, my short-term solution is the same, except I have a very skinny slot and can't but anything larger than my smashed coffee can. But, it works for now.
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