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View Poll Results: How often do you rebuild your carburetor? | |||
Annually | 10 | 10.53% | |
Every other year | 13 | 13.68% | |
Three years | 0 | 0% | |
Four years | 1 | 1.05% | |
Five years | 2 | 2.11% | |
Over five years | 3 | 3.16% | |
When she quits. If it works, don't fix it. | 66 | 69.47% | |
Voters: 95. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
IP: 24.152.131.153
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How often do you rebuild your carburetor?
I don't know if this has been polled before, I can't remember and couldn't find one. I just read a post that an engine with running problems had not had a carb rebuild in 9 years which surprised me.
So let's find out. What's the popular frequency?
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 04-28-2013 at 04:45 PM. |
#2
IP: 75.197.198.30
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I had to vote for "When she quits" or I should say when she starts acting up. I will say I carry a spare carb that I rebuilt and a rebuild kit plus misc parts/gaskets. If you only have one carb I could see the need for more timely maintenance. I think lack of use and improper winter storage cause many of the problems we see. Dan S/V Marian Claire
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#3
IP: 24.224.152.244
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off and cleaned each fall.
I voted "annually". I do remove the carb every fall, when the boat comes out of the water, once I've run the antifreeze into the engine and exhaust.
Then take it home, take it apart, remove all jets, float and needle...then clean it all with brake clean or combustion chamber cleaner (either will work fine). Then reassemble and put it back on the engine the day I start her up in spring. It's not a rebuild but I keep it maintained annually. EDIT - additional info: Fuel filters: one filter / water separator and an additional automotive style in-line filter. I strongly suggest changing the element in the separator yearly and the in-line filter yearly as well. Maintenance: Carb and filters...yearly....always done in the spring on start-up day so that they are fresh and gas not sitting in them for months. So change element, change in-line filter, tighten all clamps, install carb...and fire up.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. Last edited by Mo; 04-29-2013 at 08:51 PM. |
#4
IP: 173.53.23.94
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Just for clarification - is there a set definition of what qualifies as a "rebuild" of the carb?
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- Bill T. - Richmond, VA Relentless pursuer of lost causes |
#5
IP: 24.152.131.153
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Quote:
No extra parts left over like my Dad always had after one of his Mercury carb rebuilds. You remember him, the guy who'd light the BBQ with Molotov cocktails. I hafta say I'm surprised at the early returns. As of this post there are only 5 out of 17 who perform regular maintenance, that's less than a third. With the care this group seems to give to their beloved engines, leaving the carb unmaintained until it fails is entirely contradictory to me. You don't do it with spark plugs, impellers or oil, why neglect the carb? I don't get it but it might help explain all the carburetor related posts we see on the forum. No wonder.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 04-29-2013 at 08:56 AM. |
#6
IP: 12.144.68.3
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Had to vote for rebuilding every other year.
I sorta do what Mo does... Once each year I give it a cleaning. I've only had it 3 years and rebuilt it once. (Not even sure it needed it. Just felt like Neil, I have it apart so, why not? So, hence the "bi-vote" I should point out here that I have been able to avoid any ethanol fuel too.
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#7
IP: 96.229.18.9
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As many on the site know I am a bit of a carb nut and I love to tinker too. I have had my carb opened a and closed as many as 8 times in a single day testing jetting sequences and such. My engine is very tired and now on her 43 year of service. I did replace an exhaust valve though when I bought her in 83'. I traded A-4 mechanic for some work on his valve tooling and he traded me a factory new A-4 carb in the box and the tools to redo my seat in the boat. That is also the only time the head was off too.
I have not done a rebuild of the carb since but I have taken it apart many times while tinkering and did not do anything but change parts check the gasket and back underway again. I had a bad water enchroachment a few years back after some heavy rains ans a missing deck-fil 0-ring. I drained the water out from under the fuel and drained the carb on the motor. She fired right up and has been doing so since. I also start the season with my old O/B fuel and lawn toy gas too dumped into the non finiky A-4 for consumption. I will note that the more you use the engine the less fuel related issues you'll face. Those that seem to have the most perplexing problems are those who mostly sail and use the lil beastie below to just get in and out of the slip. When fuel gets old and the engine does not use much of it things do start to gum up. I have been using the E-fuel for a long time with no issues but my engine usually motors me to my island a 5 hour trip early before the wind fills in. Then I start her before leaving for safety as I almost always sail off the mooring. When sailing off I do have the beastie below ready incase and then she is shut down usually before I ma through the mooring field. As stated I am a bit of a carb guy and the problems in the carb are alomost always from something upstream. Dave Neptune |
#8
IP: 206.125.176.5
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I am having carb issues right now.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#9
IP: 68.5.64.222
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I think it is smart if you are doing it on some schedule to replace your water separator and polishing filter at the same time as well. This seems to save the hassle of the same day cleaning from blowing crap right back into your clean carb.
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#10
IP: 75.192.71.179
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A question for those that clean/rebuild often, annually/bi-annually. What do you find? Is there varnish forming, small bits of dirt or hose, rust? Are they just clean?
Shawn you know where I am if you need a second pair of eyes. If I remember my glasses that is. Dan S/V Marian Claire |
#11
IP: 199.168.148.136
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Quote:
No carb problems for over 10 years (knock on wood) TRUE GRIT |
#12
IP: 24.152.131.153
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Quote:
I also change my water separating filter annually and pour the contents in a glass jar for inspection. So far all good. On carb rebuild years the filter and carb are done at the same time.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#13
IP: 12.144.68.3
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Quote:
Just have it as a maintenance item to avoid any issue downstream. I also change all the fuel hoses from tank to the carb every 2 years. Where I sail, the very dry environment is not kind to rubber (or batteries) The up-side is that I don't have any corrosion issues to worry about though! Fair 'nuff tradeoff.
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#14
IP: 173.53.23.94
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I didn't vote, because although I my boat has owned me for nearly 3 years now, over a year of that was spent with the engine in pieces in my workshop at home and the boat on the hard, and in the year and a half since then, I've managed to use the boat only a handful of time, due to other, far more pressing, life matters requiring my more immediate and fuller attention.
As an example - I haven't even set eyes on my boat, much less set foot on her, for a couple months now. Last time I ran the engine was when I winterized it in December...
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- Bill T. - Richmond, VA Relentless pursuer of lost causes |
#15
IP: 67.164.140.139
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I'm with Dave on this one. I'll take off the carb and clean it just to clean it. Just did it before my last sail and almost did it again for the return trip. I think I need to find a different component to tinker with, but its just so accessible......
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Ezra K "Tumbleweed" 1970 Cal29 San Diego, CA |
#16
IP: 67.164.140.139
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On a related topic, I did a stupid thing on the last clean-out before Ensenada. The flared end from the scavenge tube broke off. I drove around San Diego for 3 hours trying to find a flare tool that would fit the copper tubing 1/16"? to no avail....I was tired and frustrated, so I ended up using a small blade, hand flaring it and then tightening onto the 1/8 nipple...worked great.
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Ezra K "Tumbleweed" 1970 Cal29 San Diego, CA |
#17
IP: 71.176.196.118
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I flared the end of the tube using a small phillips-head screwdriver tip. Just shoved it in there and spun it a bit.
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- Bill T. - Richmond, VA Relentless pursuer of lost causes |
#18
IP: 96.229.18.9
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Flared ends
I just converted to compression type fittings, no problem for the last 20 years or so. I even have a coil of 1/8" copper and extra farrel's in my ditty box! I use the 1/8 on my vac gage too so extra parts are ready for it to from the "ditty box".
Dave Neptune |
#19
IP: 206.125.176.5
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 05-03-2013 at 10:05 AM. |
#20
IP: 71.118.13.238
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Gage Port?
Shawn, most gages have a 1/8 NPT port and I just go from there. When hooking up your vac gage using at least 2+ feet will help It greatly reduces the "bounce" at idle and will have no influence on the actual reading. I have and have seen vac test gages that are plumbed from the inside with a barb only, this is not a constant duty type gage~thus the barb. A small SW works quite well and at 2 1/16 diameter it can be fit and/or mounted most anywhere.
Dave Neptune |
#21
IP: 206.125.176.5
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Dave, I may have a non-constant duty gauge. It is a cheap combo vac/pressure gauge from Actron - CP7803
The way I had it hooked up before was a 90° barb on the other end of the hose that was 1/8" NPT male into the manifold. Here's what I have now...the problem I recently noticed is I musta whacked it, the barb on the gauge is cracked. Let's see if this pic works - I see Sunpro makes a nice 2" vacuum gauge (CP7978)..I can pick it up for almost the same price locally as I can at Amazon..it has a 1/8"NPT connection. Changing the subject, I also noticed my "Mr. Gasket" #1561 fuel pressure gauge reads about 1 PSI at rest..is there a way to zero these gauges out? It is a little unnerving to see 4+ PSI on the fuel pressure gauge..and I don't want to have to remember to scale it from 1 PSI, espcially if I am troubleshooting fuel issues.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 05-03-2013 at 12:03 PM. |
#22
IP: 71.118.13.238
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Adjustments
Shawn, as far as adjusting don't bother the gage is relative to the preassure wupplied. So your gage is off 1 psi, as long as you know it no biggie!!!! I have seen people dissassemble and twiwst the needle and/or background with the numbers and it's not worth the trouble. I would trust it less after twisting than a gage that just wasn't zeroed. No biggie on a mechanical gage at all!!!!!!
Your scale should be fine just delete the one psi ole boy. Dave Neptune |
#23
IP: 74.104.130.243
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Can't vote on this one because I never have rebuilt the carb. But see my post of this date in the NAPA coil thread. I'm taking it apart and cleaning it good, and if it needs a rebuild I'll do that, too. Then probably an annual clean and rebuild as necessary after that.
Mark S. |
#24
IP: 108.48.211.14
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Might as well talk about carbs here.
My "good" carb will not keep the engine running...so today I bolted on my 'backup' carb and it ran fabulously. I must have missed something on the 'good' carb. Dave Neptune, I did not follow your advice and I ripped the fuel pressure gauge apart too...the cheap plastic lens over the gauge face does not like gasoline...it melts and clouds the lens, but I bent the little rod inside the gauge to read zero at zero PSI.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#25
IP: 96.229.18.9
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Fine
Shawn, no biggie~the gage should still work. I just "prefer" the smaller permanent for mounting ease and the ability to see when operating.
Let us know what you find in carb #1. Dave Neptune |
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