New hot section: Do I need to remove exhaust flange?

[hanleyclifford]

If you use schedule 80 you may have so much weight you will need "headstay" and "shroud".

[sastanley]

Nice work Hanley!!!!

[ernst]

Whoa...ernst, I am confused.

Why not wrap the pipe in the new Moyer wrap, and then spray the wrap with the spray? I think that is how it goes, unless I do not understand how it works.

What is the difference between the wrap you have and the stuff you got from Moyer...??

The difference is that I HAVE the stuff. Meaning I don't have to buy it.

I bought a whole roll of industrial strength exhaust wrap (fiberglass, I think) when I built my exhaust system. It has worked great so I don't see why I should purchase another one.

And I also see no reason to spraypaint my wrap. I used two full layers and it worked perfectly so why change/complicate things?

[ernst]

If you use schedule 80 you may have so much weight you will need "headstay" and "shroud".

Holy cow, I had no idea you have THREE pieces of 'standing rigging' on that! I had seen two (headstay and shroud) but not the third, horizontal one.

I have already a 3' piece of (stainless!) threaded rod on my shopping list. Was planning on a headstay only. I am, however, a bit of a loss at what to fasten it to. It is not clear from the photos what you used. Could you elaborate? FWIW I have a V-drive installation so everything is reversed. For the headstay, I thought about the water inlet fitting to the manifold, cobble something together with a hose clamp or something. There should not be a whole lot of force on that.

Oh, and I don't think Sch 80 vs. Sch 40 makes such a big difference. Most of the weight is in the fittings and those are the same for both.

[hanleyclifford]

The third, unpainted, rod is actually for steadying a water pump riser. The manifold coolant outlet is used to secure the "headstay" using a steel bracket. The tension is set with the turnbuckle. As you can see, the system is first painted with automotive exhaust or header paint, then wrapped.

[67c&ccorv]

Everytime I look at the picture of your hot section Hanly I think that would be right at home on our GE AC4400HP diesel locomotive engines!

WOW!

[hanleyclifford]

Everytime I look at the picture of your hot section Hanly I think that would be right at home on our GE AC4400HP diesel locomotive engines!

WOW!

It was actually copied from a Westerbeke diesel we had on our Crosby launches.

[ernst]

The third, unpainted, rod is actually for steadying a water pump riser. The manifold coolant outlet is used to secure the "headstay" using a steel bracket. The tension is set with the turnbuckle. As you can see, the system is first painted with automotive exhaust or header paint, then wrapped.

Okay, now I can see that the 'stay' is fastened to the manifold outlet. That is where I thought to go to, too. But of course a steel bracket (I presume a smaller version of what goes around the exhaust pipes) is a much better solution than the concoction with hose clamps I had in mind.

You are a fount of inspiration! I think I will copy your installation (I could not find a turnbuckle but I ordered some coupling nuts for tensioning).

Thanks a lot!

[edwardc]

... (I could not find a turnbuckle but I ordered some coupling nuts for tensioning). ...

How will you use the coupling nuts for tensioning? With right-handed threads all the way through, won't they just move up or down without changing the length of the "stays"?

[romantic comedy]

I used black iron and some galvanized. I sanded the pipes to remove the coating and painted it with high temp paint. I wanted to use black, but I bought the silver color by mistake.

I insulated it with thee wraps of fiberglass insulation.

I saw that someone said to paint the insulation instead of the pipe. I cant imagine why one would do that.

There should be 2 pictures here of the exhaust.

The pictures are too big, i think. I dont know how to resize them.

[ernst]

How will you use the coupling nuts for tensioning? With right-handed threads all the way through, won't they just move up or down without changing the length of the "stays"?

Duh <sound of hand slapping forehead>

Actually, now that you say it, I remember seeing coupling nuts with BOTH left hand and right hand threads. I suppose that would have done the trick. But the order is already placed.

Have to think of another solution.

[ernst]

Duh <sound of hand slapping forehead>

Actually, now that you say it, I remember seeing coupling nuts with BOTH left hand and right hand threads. I suppose that would have done the trick. But the order is already placed.

Have to think of another solution.

It's been a while but yes, I found another solution. Not terribly elegant but it works: Drill out the left-handed threads on one side of the turnbuckle, put in the (right-handed) threaded rod, put a (right handed) nut on it (inside the turnbuckle). You can see it in the "Exhaust Porn' thread.

Works.