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  #1   IP: 68.114.124.144
Old 04-06-2019, 05:39 PM
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SPNetricks SPNetricks is offline
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A little help

Went to the boat today and did some engine work. Took a few pics to get some feedback on. The distributor has a cap with two screws (no clips), does that mean something? The distributor looks like EE, right? The rotor is a little pitted, but the inside of the cap looks good. Fairly new 8mm wires. Coil looks good, and has 4.1 ohms across it.
I'm working on giving it a tune up and a rewire. The engine was running but hard to start. I plan on checking the timing after the rewire and tune up. I tried to take the plate under the rotor off, but it was lifting the center rod up too. So I left it in place till I could get more info of what is going on.
I am open to any comments, questions, or advice about what you see in the pics or what I've said. Also the tube above the flame arrester is missing. ?
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  #2   IP: 72.205.92.66
Old 04-06-2019, 08:56 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPNetricks View Post
The engine was running but hard to start.
Check to be sure the choke is closing all the way.

TRUE GRIT
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  #3   IP: 147.4.36.80
Old 04-07-2019, 01:58 PM
tenders tenders is offline
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The antifouling paint is doing a good job keeping the barnacles off the rotor.

Hard starting: I would be thinking carburetor before timing.
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Old 04-07-2019, 06:00 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
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SPN, the first thing I would do is eliminate the "trailer" style plug especially if doing any kind of a rewire. This will possibly eliminate any weak connections to which these plugs are notorious and pretty much worthless after corroding a bit.

RE the distributor does the centrifugal advance "pop back" when twisted? If so just replace the cap and rotor while being very careful as to the firing order of the wires. A fresh set of plugs (gap @ .040 with the EI) and be sure all connections are clean and well snugged.

As per John do be sure the choke is completely closing!! This is a must for good cold starting.

Check the "spark" and what you want is a spark that is crisp and blue that will pop at least 1/4". This will confirm the coil and the EI.

Dave Neptune
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  #5   IP: 68.114.124.144
Old 04-07-2019, 06:56 PM
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I do want to remove all the wires (and there are a lot of them) and that plug before I clean the engine. The engine electronics should be isolated from the house electronics, other than charging possibly. I did not want to mess with the centrifuge until I did more research. That plate would not come out without removing it. I will check the choke and adjust if necessary as I work my way around the engine during this inspection. I just bought the boat a month ago and I am in the process of renovation it. The blue paint on the distributor was on there when I opened it up (I thought it might be marking something). I was surprised to see EE, everything else on the boat is from 1976. That is the first upgrade I have seen.
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Old 04-07-2019, 07:58 PM
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  1. The rotor looks shot to me. The perimeter contact tab appears to be sintered. If it's worn as it appears to be, so is the distributor cap.
  2. Both the rotor and magnetic ring must be removed to remove the plate and access the advance mechanism beneath.
  3. Deal with the plug wires one at a time.
These issues are important to a good running engine so please don't shy away from them. It is important in this case to do the work without removing the distributor.
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Last edited by ndutton; 04-07-2019 at 08:01 PM.
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  #7   IP: 71.38.87.228
Old 04-08-2019, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPNetricks View Post
...Also the tube above the flame arrester is missing. ?
Also called a "Slash Tube"
You can get one from MMI here on this site.
Although I searched the online catalogue and couldn't find it anywhere. (Bill?)
Maybe give Ken a call and he can get you one.

You can also, of course, make your own.
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  #8   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 04-08-2019, 11:25 AM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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Here's a link to the breather tube:
https://moyermarine.com/product/brea...l-oval_11_203/
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  #9   IP: 68.114.124.144
Old 04-08-2019, 06:34 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm a new A4 technician and an old sailor. This is my forth sailboat and first A4. The other sailboats had outboards and I got used to working on them. I will be going to the boat on Wednesday to do more inspecting and cleaning. The cart with MMI (so I get the right part) is getting full with the things I need, but I want to work my way to the other side of the A4 before ordering. I will also take more pictures. Personally, I like seeing other peoples A4's for a reference and comparison (plus I am going to need some before and after shots).
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  #10   IP: 70.185.132.18
Old 04-09-2019, 01:40 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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If you do not have a copy of the Moyer Manual then add that to your "cart" also unless you've done that already.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:03 AM
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Tenders: "The antifouling paint is doing a good job keeping the barnacles off the rotor."- so witty for so young you are
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:31 AM
zellerj zellerj is offline
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The fact that the distributor cap has screws instead of clips means that it is a marine cap. It is not kosher to have a clip dizzy cap on a boat.
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  #13   IP: 71.201.93.219
Old 04-09-2019, 02:53 PM
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Being of Greek decent I am certainly not kosher but my thinking is as follows: A4's w/ screw on dizzy caps are later model w/ Delco distributors. Smaller "clip on" caps are for Prestolite distributors on early model A4's, around 1969 and before. The Prestolite dizzy has the condenser screwed to the outside, Delco incorporated into the inside plate.
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