stuffing box

[ndutton]

Allen,

Here's mine. Although the same model year, Shawn's boat is a few months earlier than mine. Looks like Catalina was making changes in this area around that time. Now that I look at your picture again, I think after enlarging the access hole as far forward as possible you can shorten the black hose and move your stuffing box aft to get excellent exposure.

[Jesse Delanoy]

Mine looks just like Neil's. Great access through the floor panel.

Jesse Delanoy
s/v Off the Grid
'77 Catalina 30 no. 664
Baltimore/Pasadena

[sastanley]

whoa!

Wow! Yeah...mine is nothing like Neil's!

I'll have to grab the camera when I hopefully get to the boat this week to complete winterizing, just for comparison..it is much more like Allen's.

I do notice that Neil's got a bolt in the 'recess' , far forward to port, that I assume clamps the shift cable..mine is not identical, but in a similar location..one thing not to cut

[ndutton]

Yup, the bolt anchors the shift cable. There's all kinds of stuff not to cut in there, bilge pump discharge, various electrical wires, grounds and fuel lines. Best not to bury the sawzall to the hilt.

[sastanley]

updated pic

So, it seems, as Neil surmised, that there is a shift in C-30's of this vintage.

This is a bad cell phone pic, but it is what I had with me. You can just see the nuts showing up in the forward of the access hatch.

It gives perspective to illustrate that they moved the 'hatch' on my #511 hull forward to match Neil's, but it appears that the stuffing box/thru hull may be in a similar location to Allen's boat.

But it also appears on later hulls (between 511 & 600) that in addition to moving the hatch forward, they also moved the stuffing box/thru hull itself aft, when looking at Neil's #600.

I wonder if our props & struts are in the same place???

[dr2061]

stuffing box

Shawn,
Thanks for the picture and info. It appears that I will have to cut into the cabin sole in a forward direction up to the counter wall. I have two concerns, first what type of saw should I use given that there isn't enough room for a jig saw (blade would be too long) and a dremel saw might not cut through the thickness of the fiberglass and second, what is down there under sole that even with a dental mirror I might not see. I have two screws in the area and I haven't yet been able to determine what they secure. (Such fun and games!!) Allen

[ndutton]

Seems strange that it took Catalina nearly 600 boats to figure out there was a design problem here. This must have been obvious on hull #1.

I suspect that the struts vary too. Relocating the shaft log aft would change the prop shaft angle as it exits the hull (a shallower angle) which would directly affect the strut since it's all about angle. Could be that it results in more efficient thrust from the prop being closer to horizontal although probably so slight that it's not significant.

I'll repeat a comment in an earlier post. If I had access problems with a maintenance item like the stuffing box, I would consider replacing it with a no-maintenance shaft seal. I'd go through the agony of working in that area one last time and be done with it.

[sastanley]

Allen,

you can get a 'cutter' that looks like a drill bit for a Dremel..works kinda like a Rotozip. They also make those new larger (almost 2" diameter) cutting wheels that clip on..they work pretty well. You have to pick up a quick connect shaft, but it comes with the a kit anyway.

Neil, good thinking. I think I might do the dripless seal if I ever go thru the hassle of replacing the prop (which I want to do) & the cutless bearing, which I am pretty sure is original.

I could probably cut a notch in mine as well to give me better access to the nuts. I've also noticed on mine that the P.O. did some type of marine tex repair just behind the shaft hose (thanks Pops!)

[jhwelch]

Could you use a large keyhole saw to start your opening?

-jonathan

[ndutton]

I wouldn't recommend a keyhole saw or any hand tool. Fiberglass cuts best with fine toothed blades. Anything designed for cutting metal will to a good job on fiberglass. Remove all the screws in the area, move whatever they're holding away from the bottomside of the cabin sole, slide pieces of sheet metal over the top of the hoses, wires and cables as a cutting shield. I like a sawzall for this type of cut. Using only the tip of the blade will keep things safe underneath and allow you to hold the tool far enough away to cut close to the galley riser. Go slow and you'll be fine.

[dr2061]

stuffing box

Thanks for the suggestion about the key hole saw but I think Neil's suggestion, using a sawsall with fine teeth is the way I will go. I will give it my best shot probably within the next week or two (schedule and weather prmitting). Thanks. Allen

[ndutton]

Resolution?

Allen,
What was the outcome of your stuffing box access issue?

[dr2061]

Stuffing box

Hello ndutton,
I'm sorry to say that I have not yet done the job. I'm hoping to get to it either towards the end of Feb or the beginning of March. The weather and my schedule have not been very forgiving. Allen

[sastanley]

Thanks for the update Allen.

Keep us informed please...we are interested as fellow C-30 owners.

[dr2061]

Stuffing Box

Hello folks,
It's been awhile. Yes, I finally repaired the stuffing box and so far it seems to be working properly. I used the conventional flax because I found it easier to work with. I tried the teflon first. You may recall that access was a problem. I have attached pictures to show you how I gained access to it. The cutting was the easy part. Unfreezing the lock nut, etc. and having enough room for your hands to work was the tough part. I haven't yet figured out a satisfactory way to cover the hole which will be under a carpet.