#1
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Somebody thinks I know something about A4's..now I am an 'expert'!?!?
Well, A buddy of mine has caught me in the act. He heard me telling a story (to outboard owning friends) about how pleased I've been with the A4 in "TA" recently. He has some old neglected A4 in a donated sailboat he wants help with.
So, I am going to the boat today to get my tool box (a few A4 specific tools in there) my spare fuel pump, spare carb & backup distributor plate (with points & condensor installed) to carry with me. - He says it will turn over & has compression, but he needs help with the ignition & some tricks to get the fuel system cleaned out. I might take a known good set of spark plugs too. "I need to get the engine running so the 'kids' (Scouts, maybe?) can sail it around and get it out of the marina." I think we'll be doing this tomorrow afternoon..wish me luck. Anything else I should add to my list?
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#2
IP: 148.170.241.1
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Just remember, an expert is nothing more than a former drip under pressure (ex-spurt, get it?).
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- Bill T. - Richmond, VA Relentless pursuer of lost causes |
#3
IP: 24.224.206.117
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Excellent
Good for you Shawn. You know more than the average mechanic will know about the engine. I've done a few A4 resuscitations around here myself.
When I help people out I ask them to meet me at their boat about 7am. It rarely takes more than a couple of hours and I find that if I have to work on it until noon I can still have time for a sail / beerin the afternoon. They will likely be a bunch of happy sailors when you are done with it.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#4
IP: 68.224.125.208
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Shawn-
Maybe take along a 5-gal gas can in case you want to "work around" his existing fuel system? (Got any spare fuel hoses?) Also, depending on his boat, some good mirrors and a camera to get into those hard to reach spots.
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#5
IP: 38.102.16.112
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Camera?
Bill |
#6
IP: 68.224.125.208
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Was that a question for me or a suggestion to Shawn?
I take pics of places I can't see to get a view of what's going on in that spot. (Plus, I know how fond of pics that Shawn is)
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#7
IP: 38.102.16.112
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Hi, Jerry:
It was for Shawn. Should I have mentioned the old infrared thermometer? Bill |
#8
IP: 216.115.121.240
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Go for it!
I was thinking the same thing.
You'll be our hands Shawn, and we'll all help fix this motor. Just like real doctors with robotic operating rooms get a few happy people shots too. Russ
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#9
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Gentlemen, Great ideas, thanks.
I am making an extended list. Turns out we won't be going today (my friend is busy working on his own boat, an Olson 30, in preparation for the Eastport to Solomons Race this weekend, and the Screwpile Regatta next week) So, we have some time to build up a list for any and all possibilities...we are planning to visit this boat next week sometime. (what this means is since I was planning to take the afternoon off anyway, I may sneak over to my own boat instead and install my new LED running lights!! I found a place in Canada that makes SS teardrop shape lights that bolt into the existing holes in the hull of old boats like mine with the running lights in the anchor locker & are completely waterproof!! ) Jerry/Bill, you are right..I am spoiled with the access I have in the C-30..reaching an arm & camera/mirror into a tight spot instead of my big noggin may help. I think my 2" mirror I bought specifically for the purpose of seeing the rear main seal is still in my tool box. Jerry, I had thought of that very issue with the fuel..I suggested we have a fresh jerry can of fuel available to completely bypass the fuel system..gravity feed right into the carb if necessary. Keep 'em coming. I am sure I'll need a bigger toolbox by the time we are done!
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#10
IP: 161.213.49.1
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A hand crank.
TRUE GRIT |
#11
IP: 70.91.159.33
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Don't forget the Golden rule!
Make sure your raw water intake valve is closed until she's running...
Get in there and represent!
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Mike, Slower-Lower Eastern shore, MD 1973 Pearson 33 1967 Bristol 27 |
#12
IP: 216.70.184.248
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HIJACK alert...
Quote:
They're so bright, I can use them as HEADLIGHTS!
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#13
IP: 38.102.16.112
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LED running lights have been approved by the Coast Guard?
Bill |
#14
IP: 24.224.206.117
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In Canada they have been. I've got a nice tri-light and anchor light combo on top of my mast that was bought for a coast guard rescue boat here. Catalogue price $780.
I picked it up for $150 because they changed their boat design and had no use for it. That light is bright, draws very little power, and is sealed with epoxy. You would hardley know it is there until you turn it on...it's about the size of a hockey puck and heavy /solid due to its construction. My hull running lights are still the standard bulbs. Jerry That marina set-up you are on looks pretty good. You don't have to worry about a neighbouring boat to get off the dock...not bad at all. And nice job on the woodwork around those lights too!!
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. Last edited by Mo; 07-13-2011 at 04:34 PM. |
#15
IP: 148.170.241.1
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Are they required to be approved by the Coast Guard? Or must they simply meet the regulatory requirements?
I.e., if you're a running light manufacturer, is there a mechanism for submitting a sample of your light to the Coast Guard and they check it and issue an approval? Or is it simply a matter of making sure your light meets the visibility requirements that USCG has established?
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- Bill T. - Richmond, VA Relentless pursuer of lost causes |
#16
IP: 216.115.121.240
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Quote:
Voltmeter, spare coil wire, wiring crimpers and connectors,....asprin. R.
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#17
IP: 38.102.16.112
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Quote:
I'll see if I can find that reference. Bill |
#18
IP: 24.224.206.117
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When LED lights first came on the market they weren't that bright. In recent years they have improved to provide light as well as incandescent lights. Attached is a West Marine video re: lighting. FWIW
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xux700tM-e8
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#19
IP: 71.79.250.101
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There are LED running lights that meet Coast Guard specification. Actually, I don't believe the CG approves any running lights-- they simply write the standards and it is up to the manufacturer to comply and so certify. I think the big issue is putting LED bulbs into fixtures meant for incandescents. To my knowledge there are no manufacturers certifying that the replacement bulbs will comply with CG specifications, and they would have to do so for every type and brand of fixture you could use them in. Using LED replacement bulbs could potentially be a legal nightmare for you if you had a collision.
I replaced my lights last year with 2 mile LED fixtures. Originals were 1 mile and were deck mounted. Now they're up on the pulpit. Not only are they in a better position to be seen, they're much brighter-- and totally sealed and waterproof besides being a much smaller power drain. The mounting locations used back in the 70's in the sides of the hull or on the deck would no longer meet current regulations because their visibility can be obscured when the boat heels. However, you can use these locations to replace a fixture that has gone bad. My viewpoint, though, is that these are not ideal locations from a visibility standpoint, and I'd rather move them and increase the chance that I'll be seen at night.
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Mark Smith 1977 c&c30 Mk1 hailing from Port Clinton, Ohio |
#20
IP: 68.224.125.208
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Quote:
This is in the manual/paperwork with the Nav Lights... Approval Type - ABYC and NMMA Length (LOA) Powerboats up to 65 Feet (20 meters) in length. Additional Approval - USCG / IMO COL REG Length (LOA) Powerboats over 165 Feet(50 meters) in length. Approval Type - RINA (TA No. ELE69605CS) Length (LOA) Powerboats up to 165 Feet(50 meters) in length. They're the 2NM version. There is actually a 3NM too! I can't imagine how bright those must be. In my sailing grounds, we have a pretty heavy evening traffic pattern in the summer months with people trying to beat the day's heat. A lot of that traffic are big, very fast, power "rockets" and jet skis. The prevailing wisdom around here is that you can't have too much or too bright a lighting system. (Some have taken it to a level of ridiculous) I do agree with trying to put them as high as possible and having them on the pulpit helps on my vessel. A friend tells me he can spot my boat when it's out because of the distinctly bright nav lite signature.
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 Last edited by roadnsky; 07-14-2011 at 10:20 AM. |
#21
IP: 38.102.16.112
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I have an LED anchor light. It draws next to nothing, and is usually the brightest light in the anchorage. That, plus a distinctly bluish cast, makes it very easy to distinguish.
Bill |
#22
IP: 206.125.176.3
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You & me both Bill...mine is still of the bluish hue as well, because I could not find a 'warm white' 360 degree BA-9 LED bulb. It is not technically USCG approved (although the Aquasignal Series 20 with the incandescent BA-9 bulb is). It draws 0.035 amps! I figure if the USCG wants to climb the stick and check the LED bulb, they are welcome to do so.
And, I do not know for sure, but I think it is like rigs & Bill T. said..the USCG writes the requirements/standards and the lighting manufacturer builds to those specs, but the CG doesn't actually "approve" them. Not wired yet, but here is the stbd running light!
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 07-14-2011 at 12:22 PM. |
#23
IP: 24.224.206.117
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This is what I have on the top of my stick. Seems to work well. I got it for $150 so that was a deal.
http://www.ahoycaptain.com/shop/lopolight_200-007.html
__________________
Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#24
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Those lopolights are real nice..but $$$
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#25
IP: 72.45.54.12
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Shawn,
Could you post the source of those running lights? I have the same "shark eye" design and would love to upgrade the current incandescents. Thanks!
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Tom "Patina" 1977 Tartan 30 Repowered with MMI A-4 2008 |
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