#1
IP: 75.47.229.161
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Bench test - new video
All the problems fixed and she runs great! Here is the latest video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9I01-bbf2oo |
#2
IP: 24.30.142.103
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Nicely done Warren, she sounds great! Nice camera work also!
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#3
IP: 142.68.100.130
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Congrats! Looking forward to firing up our motor after the refit. Couple of questions:
1. You installed the bypass valve fittings. I bought that kit too, but when I installed it prior to flushing the engine, I found it tricky to install: 1a. How did you install that short bit of hose? I put it on the side plate T-fitting first, then swung the lower hose barb into the other end, pivoting on the street-L's threaded joint in the thermostat housing, which means it does not seat tightly. 1b. Hard to get the fittings tight, especially that upper one. What did you use to seal the joints? 1c. How does one get the thermostat out with that bypass valve installed? 2. Looks like you have the new 55 amp alternator. Did you have any trouble aligning the pulleys?
__________________
1974 C&C 27 |
#4
IP: 75.47.229.161
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Hi Rigspelt,
1) Yes it was just a bit tight fitting. 1a) I just muscled the little piece of hose on the two hose barbs. It was not easy and I also thought this is just too tight to work. I also had trouble with the valve - it is almost too wide. 1b) I tightened the fitting before I put the hoses on. 1c) I have not removed the thermostat yet. I'm a little worried about the fittings and getting it all apart. I got a flush kit also, which I will use in the future. Let me know how it goes! 2) The Alternator lined up fine on my engine. Quote:
Last edited by warren casey; 02-12-2009 at 01:54 PM. |
#5
IP: 64.231.109.172
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Warren - great job, now you just have to install that puppy in the boat with the motorcycle exhaust! Love the sound.
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#6
IP: 75.47.229.161
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That exhaust would be cool - at idle it is very quiet.
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#7
IP: 74.235.209.204
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To connect my thermostat output to the fitting next to it I got a
long piece of house and shaped it into almost a circle; my setup is slightly different than normal but that would be easier to connect and disconnect than a short little piece. -jonathan |
#8
IP: 142.68.100.130
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Quote:
My street-L coming out of the housing wants to seat just past the bottom, turned toward the head. To get it to stop at the bottom or just before so I could try your method, I guess I need to use some Teflon tape to tighten the joint before it naturally seats in the threads? Looking at the photo, I may be able to turn that street-L another 270+ degrees to seat it naturally, then run a longer hose from the side plate T to the lower hose barb. That would make everything easier to deal with, including the valve handle if those fittings want to seat at a tight angle too. And then the housing would be a lot easier to remove, to get at the thermostat. Just means the lower end of the kit would stick forward of the engine, but that's empty space anyway.
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1974 C&C 27 Last edited by rigspelt; 02-13-2009 at 05:52 AM. |
#9
IP: 206.125.176.3
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I just picked up the by-pass kit this week from Ken. I'll report back my findings to all my A-4 friends as well.
If something won't fit as designed, rest assured it will be me I'll try to remember to take the camera with me to get some photos of the water jacket, etc.etc.. as well. My poor A-4 looks like a pile of parts in the bilge right now
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#10
IP: 74.235.209.204
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The high point in my engine's cooling system is at the thermostat, which
is why I have that valved off T fitting--it's where I put coolant in. You can see how I've looped the cooling hose around. I searched around at auto stores and found the thicker (higher temperature?) red brand at a NAPA; I didn't like the way the original black hose felt soft when the motor had warmed up. |
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