A4 Cylinder Head Removal

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  • doralda
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 22

    A4 Cylinder Head Removal

    My cylinder head cracked last year due to clogged cooling water passages in the engine I believe. THe A4 is mounted in a bristol 30 sloop 1973 vintage. I dont believe that the head had ever been removed so it was a challenge to get it to split from the block. Reading through previous posts and talking to a friend who has done this I decided the best way for me to split it was to work knives and fine chisels around the periphery of the block. Someone told me a brass chisel would be best but who has one of those...and wailing on it with a large rubber mallet didn't work. I should probably add that I had mystery oiled the head bolt stud nuts to a fare thee well and lightly tapped them for a few afternoons until I was able to finess them off with a box wrench and the ball peen. I removed all of the nuts and some came out with the bolts and all, but nothing broke due to the use of the mystery oil and patience. So then I switched to a short tiny screwdriver and was eventually able to work it in when the larger chisels wouldnt work. But I should add that I did use up almost the whole spray can of mystery oil and with the linoleum knife worked around the block at the gasket and sprayed that area as well. So this morning, Saturday, I got up, walked the dog, had some strong coffee and a fresh blueberry muffin before putting on the coveralls and working all around the edge of the head again with the small short screwdriver. tapping it in with the 2lb sledge.
    What a tingly feeling it is when the head actually begins to move away from the block, and it will! And half the studs were still in the head. I tried the two nut method working the lower nut against the upper nut to remove the studs but that was a waste of time as they were in too tight and I had some gardening to do that afternoon so I think thats what prompted to reach for the bigger hammer. Next its going to the machine shop to be magnafluxed or pressurized or whatever is the latest technique to point out the actual crack in the head. After that I'll need a used head and gasket kit I suppose. Any other suggestions?
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