basic maintenance questions

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  • anhinsb
    Frequent Contributor
    • Jun 2009
    • 6

    basic maintenance questions

    I was directed to become a member here where all the "experts" are I just purchased a 1975 Ranger 29 with, of coarse, and atomic 4 engine. This is my first boat so I am still learning about it. The engine seems to run pretty well right now, but I want to do the right thing. I would like to do some some basic preventative maintenance/tune up and make sure everything is where it should be. I have the Moyer service manual which came with the boat and I am in the process of reading through it. I thought I would ask any advice for what to start with. I plan to change oil, plugs, etc. BUT, I am not even sure where the drain plug is located OR what the best way to drain oil on a boat would be.

    Also, an inventory on your most used tools and where/how you store them would also be helpful. Plus, extra parts that seem to be handy to keep onboard.

    From what I hear these are pretty basic engines to work on and I am fairly competent, but if there is anyone locally in the Tacoma area I would love some beginner basics. Thanks to everyone in advance.
  • sastanley
    Afourian MVP
    • Sep 2008
    • 6986

    #2
    welcome!

    Most people pump the oil out of the dipstick tube (aft stbd, behind the distributor), or use the Moyer kit which pumps it out of the top of the oil pan. (port side, in the middle of the pan/engine.)

    If it is running well, great! If you have a compression tester, that can help determine if all cylinders are pumping equally.

    Tools - I have an SAE set of combination wrenches - the largest I've needed so far is 3/4" (oil pressure adjustment) - the smallest 1/4" (choke cable) - Some of the more common sizes you may need two for loosening a bolt/nut combo... 1/2", 9/16", 5/8"
    Also, sometimes you need stubby screwdrivers due to access problems. Some SAE sockets with an extension are good too. I am sure others will provide a more extensive list.

    Use the tune up procedures in the Moyer Manual and you'll be good to go
    Last edited by sastanley; 06-17-2009, 09:34 PM. Reason: meager tool list
    -Shawn
    "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
    "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
    sigpic

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    • Mark S
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2008
      • 421

      #3
      Welcome!

      As for parts, keep new duplicates of everything: caps, rotors, plugs, maybe a coil, alternator belts, fuel filters, water pump impellers, lengths of all hose sizes, hose clamps, cotter pins, SAE 30 engine oil, and Marvel Mystery Oil. If you don't, you'll wish you did and at the worst possible moment. If you do, you won't need them. My prior owner kept all his used parts. I threw them out and got all new, one set to put on and the other set as spares.

      In addition to the tools Shawn mentioned, I have a set of 3/8" drive ratchet and sockets and a couple of six point 1/2" drive sockets with a ratchet and bar, a hack saw, shears, vice grips, snap ring pliars, various sizes regular pliars, multi-meter, jumper wires, flashlights and batteries, tape measure, round file, a can of PB Blaster, various waterproof greases, and occasionally a cordless DeWalt drill and driver with bits. Right now I wish I had a spanner wrench. I keep the manual tools in a tool box in the port cockpit locker and the electrical items in a cabinet in the main cabin.

      If your ignition is points and condenser, I recommend an electronic ignition conversion. It's easy, your spark will be better, your plugs will last longer, and you'll only see the inside of your distributor cap to replace the rotor.

      I'm sure there's lots more. Others will tell you what else there is. Good luck!

      Mark S

      Comment

      • sastanley
        Afourian MVP
        • Sep 2008
        • 6986

        #4
        Nice comprehensive list Mark! I agree with the electronic ignition upgrade..so far, along with a new coil, they are the two best modifications I have made I think to increase reliability. Most of the other issues (engine related) I can deal with 'in the field'. I have every gasket for the motor, along with a 5-pack of razor blades for cleaning the surfaces (except a head gasket) on hand as well.

        I do still have an old condenser & set of points (or two) , along with the plate if I fry the electronic unit.

        My spare coil just became my primary, so I guess I need a new spare.
        Last edited by sastanley; 06-17-2009, 10:42 PM.
        -Shawn
        "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
        "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
        sigpic

        Comment

        • Dave O
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2007
          • 74

          #5
          I was in exactly the same position 3 seasons ago with my new boat. For me, the Atomic 4 was pretty much the same as old Ford engines I worked on while going to college in the early 1980's, so I had a sense of the basics through necessity and a very limited budget. At that time it was not a hobby or an option. :-)

          My A4 was well cared for and so far, most of the work has been basic tune-up sort of things with some improvements. I would suggest trying repairs/improvements that might stretch your comfort level at first but are quite basic. This forum is really good for information/support and the engine technically is quite basic. Moyer Marine is also a great safety net if you get into more serious trouble. My single point of advice would be to read instructions carefully and proceed slowly and with care. It's a lot easier to do it right the first time than trouble-shoot because of sloppy work.

          With respect to your question about oil change which is a really good first step, I use a suction line inserted into the oil dipstick. The extraction assembly is readily available from West Marine. My club also has a no cost shared one so perhaps yours does also. Check the existing engine oil to see if you are OK with level or need to add a bit. Then run the engine about 5 minutes to heat up the old (existing) oil first to help with drainage. Then, simply extract the old oil through the dipstick and replace with the same amount as you extracted or a bit more or less depending upon what you originally saw on the dipstick. It's a "once a year" sort of thing but after doing it once it will be clear.

          Welcome.

          Dave O
          C&C 29 Mark I
          Port Credit, ON

          Comment

          • anhinsb
            Frequent Contributor
            • Jun 2009
            • 6

            #6
            Thanks guys. I appreciate the answers. I'm sure I will have more questions as I get into things a little more detailed. I will not get back to the boat for a couple weeks so I think this will be a great time to prepare and do some research.


            April

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            • rigspelt
              Afourian MVP
              • May 2008
              • 1186

              #7
              One of the best A4 tools is the Search mechanism on this forum. The archives are well worth several hours of prowling. Keep copies of links to threads you will want to revisit down the road. Copy and paste good bits relative to your engine into some kind of personal electronic archive.
              1974 C&C 27

              Comment

              • domagami
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2006
                • 64

                #8
                One or two more things

                Welcome April!

                You'll get nothing but good advice (and some polite counterpoints) from this site, and as suggested, digging through the archived posts is an excellent way to learn what you need to know. The service manual you have is the shortcut to the info, but there is a lot of good insight in the posts too.

                The one thing not mentioned, unless I missed it, is that you'll likely need to change out the impeller (wheel) on the cooling water pump - either soon or in a year or two. (Depends on how well serviced the boat was when you got it.) The suggestion is to swap these out every two or three years, along with refilling the associated grease cup. You'll see all this in the manual. I actually find it easier to remove the entire pump - then you can see it better too - service it and reinstall. No worries, you'll find the best solution for you.

                Similarly, if you have a head with an electric pump - or basically anything that moves water - you likely have rubber impellers that need to be swapped out every few years. I only mention it because of my own experience. I was so good about doing the preventative maintenance on the engine that I neglected the head. As you can guess, the failed impeller in the head was one I wished I had swapped out ahead of time.

                Also, I find that seeing things done is a huge help. If you don't find someone in Tacoma to show you around, consider also picking up the Moyer videos on topics you need info on, they can be very helpful in translating the posts and manual into more detailed actions.

                Before you know it you'll be one who is the expert in Tacoma.

                Best,

                MD

                Comment

                • charles@pricefarrington.c
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 199

                  #9
                  I have a Ranger 29 also, 74. Would love to see pictures or your boat.
                  74' Ranger 29

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