Distributor Timing

[quiesence65]

I have never been able to time my A-4 by turning the distributor. It is so close to that turning belt on the alternator I am quite frankly nervous....especially when you are supposed to do it under-way and under load.

Can someone please help me out here??.....Thanks

[Administrator]

Personally, I agree with you completely.

Bill

[ndutton]

The belt can be removed for a timing exercise. The engine will run for hours on a fully charged battery without alternator function or any other appliances operating. Figure 4 amps ignition current, 65 amp-hours for a fully charged G24 battery, no more than 50% discharge, 1 A-H starting load penalty allows for roughly 8 hours run time.

Remove the belt, loosen the distributor clamp bolt slightly so the distributor turns but stiffly, then start the engine. If power timing (no timing light) be sure to get the engine RPM up so the advance weights are fully extended.

[quiesence65]

I get that...and thanks. I am wondering if you could possible rotate the distributor in slight increments with the engine stopped, and then choose the approx. best setting???? Weird, I guess....but safer, and less work?

[ndutton]

You could do that but it's a long and imprecise process. Timing is best set with a timing light strobing on a timing mark, either the crankshaft roll pin or one of your own careful creation but that requires a running engine. I use a mark on the accessory drive with a fabricated timing pointer. As can be seen, the mark/pointer works with the belt removed if you're inclined to go that way. Timing with this method is done at low idle so there is no advance influence.

As for less work, removing the alternator belt requires loosening one 1/2" hex machine screw, just one.

[CajunSpike]

My method is to grab the distributor cap with the right hand and adjust accordingly. Since the hand is moving in from the right side of the engine, I'm about as far away from the belt/alternator as you can go and still touch the distributor.

Also you can loosen the dist. clamp so its easy to turn when setting.

I'm sure some heavy leather gloves would be a good alternative as well.

Hasn't anybody yet invented some sort of plastic gizmo that you could sit down on top of the distributor cap and turn? Thus turning the entire distributor from a short distance?

[quiesence65]

Thanks.......I will give it another try tomorrow! Carefully!!!

[roadnsky]

Hasn't anybody yet invented some sort of plastic gizmo that you could sit down on top of the distributor cap and turn? Thus turning the entire distributor from a short distance?

Hmmmmmmm.....
Neil? Thatch?

[ndutton]

Hmmmmmmm.....
Neil? Thatch?

I've never shared the moving belt proximity concerns expressed in this thread, always grabbed the distributor on the reversing gear side well away from moving parts therefore in my view we are discussing a solution in search of a problem again. Like I said earlier, if you're concerned about the belt, remove it for timing.

Gloves were suggested. The way I was taught, gloves, long sleeves and loose clothing are absolutely verboten around moving parts. Be safe.

[thatch]

Guys like Shawn, Neil and I who have Catalina 30s have it relatively easy when it comes to twisting the distributor. The hold down bolt and access for getting a hand on the dizzy was made easy because of a hinged door on that side of the engine. We tend to forget that many A4s were "shoehorned" into a space with minimal clearance around them. In these cases it is a good idea to get "creative" and figure out ways to make life easier. Cutting access panels in quarter-berth areas, when possible, is one approach. Sometimes "making" a custom tool helps. One tool that can be made relatively easily, if access to the distributor is from the top, is what was commonly referred to as a GM distributor wrench. It looked like a box wrench that had been heated and bent 90 degrees near the box end. It allowed the user to loosen the hold down bolt from the topside rather than from underneath it. As far as making a "cap grabbing" tool goes, I'd probably start with some 3" PVC pipe fittings and go from there. Taking a spare distributor cap to the hardware store should tell you right away if you're in the ballpark.
Tom

[ndutton]

How about a toilet plunger? Saw off the wood handle.

[thatch]

Sound's good to me, preferably a new one.

[sastanley]

I am right handed...Even though Tom has correctly pointed out that us C-30 guys have better-than-most access to the dizzy area..I tend to use my left hand when tuning the boat to keep it (my hand) away from the alternator pulley..so sometimes the adjustments are a little jumpy.

However, I can also reinforce Neil's report that the engine will run for HOURS with the alt. belt removed...I have done it for at least two hours with no problem, when my regulator failed and I worried about cooking the batteries with too much voltage to get home, I removed the belt. I did have a voltage gauge to keep an eye out on things. It barely moved...the ignition system seems to draw just a few amps...