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  #101   IP: 206.47.13.123
Old 10-08-2014, 11:53 AM
lhbradley lhbradley is offline
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OK. Thanks for all the suggestions.

When I have pinched off the bypass in previous years, there appeared to be adequate flow thru the exhaust. I always had the engine warmed up, so the combination of the little hole and the partially open T-stat should have let the antifreeze through the block at a decent rate.

When I get to the boat, I'll first remove the drain plug and see what comes out. Hopefully antifreeze! which would indicate that I did indeed get some into the block. But I will do the job anyhow.
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  #102   IP: 206.47.13.123
Old 10-15-2014, 10:12 AM
lhbradley lhbradley is offline
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Went to the boat yesterday. Removed drain plug. Water came out, then some antifreeze/water mix. Decided not to take a chance. Drained the block. Removed the impeller (need to put a new one in anyways), it was very hard to remove. Removed water exit hose from manifold. Connected drill pump to my water intake T fitting hose. CLAMPED OFF BYPASS HOSE!!!!!! Ran drill pump (I think these things are the pits, by the way). Eventually antifreeze started coming out the manifold. Removed block drain to make sure antifreeze was in block. Looked good. Pumped some more through the system.

Moral of the story: Do it right the FIRST time!

Question:

Given that removing the impeller and all that is a pain, could I not just connect a hose to the drain fitting, and pump antifreeze into the block that way? No need to remove impellers or clamp off bypass hoses. Thoughts?
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  #103   IP: 128.183.140.38
Old 10-15-2014, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhbradley View Post
... Ran drill pump (I think these things are the pits, by the way)....
Good to know. I used a 1/10 HP portable transfer pump that I already had. A lot more expensive than a drill pump, but it moves a gallon of antifreeze through in about 15 seconds!

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Originally Posted by lhbradley View Post
...Question:

Given that removing the impeller and all that is a pain, could I not just connect a hose to the drain fitting, and pump antifreeze into the block that way? No need to remove impellers or clamp off bypass hoses. Thoughts?

Interesting idea. Never considered it before, since my drain holes just have a plug in them and are basically inaccessable. Don't see why it wouldn't work, especially if you only use the one that is farthest from the thermostat.
Would still have to be sure to drain the pump housing.
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Last edited by edwardc; 10-15-2014 at 10:59 AM.
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  #104   IP: 67.244.62.45
Old 10-15-2014, 12:12 PM
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BunnyPlanet169 BunnyPlanet169 is offline
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....Would still have to be sure to drain the pump housing.
What keeps antifreeze from slowly draining out of the block via the pump housing? That's in part how I used to drain my block....
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  #105   IP: 108.202.193.6
Old 10-19-2014, 10:31 AM
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Anti-Freeze

Anyone used this stuff? From NAPA. Directions printed on the container are For Marine Use - "Do not dilute with water." Sounds like slush to me.
Howard
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  #106   IP: 69.140.249.71
Old 10-23-2014, 08:01 PM
macgyro macgyro is offline
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Used similar

Quote:
Originally Posted by hcrisp View Post
Anyone used this stuff? From NAPA. Directions printed on the container are For Marine Use - "Do not dilute with water." Sounds like slush to me.
Howard
I've used similar antifreezes, popular opinion is that IF you dilute it with water, to shake it up real good before putting it in the engine, because people in the past have just added water and the antifreeze in a bucket and it did not mix properly, leaving sections of the cooling system protected by 100% water. I usually get the -50 type and don't dilute it. The ratio of water to antifreeze for a particular temperature protection is unknown to me. But I'm sure google knows.

Dean
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  #107   IP: 99.234.12.85
Old 10-24-2014, 11:23 AM
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Brief Running in winter

Will soon be on the hard, and I have a long list of winter to-dos, some of which will require starting up the old girl for brief few second periods, just to make sure all done correctly (after installing EI, new racor and fuel lines, new carb, various rewiring, OPSS, etc, etc).

Question is, if i pull impeller, I assume the block antifreeze will stay just where it is and not belch out the transom, and all good for the next -20 day. Correct assumption? (I am raw water cooled).

Thanks for help on a simple one.
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  #108   IP: 76.11.110.224
Old 10-24-2014, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whippet View Post
Will soon be on the hard, and I have a long list of winter to-dos, some of which will require starting up the old girl for brief few second periods, just to make sure all done correctly (after installing EI, new racor and fuel lines, new carb, various rewiring, OPSS, etc, etc).

Question is, if i pull impeller, I assume the block antifreeze will stay just where it is and not belch out the transom, and all good for the next -20 day. Correct assumption? (I am raw water cooled).

Thanks for help on a simple one.
No need to pull impeller; once winterized and valve is off, a few seconds won't matter...it will belch a bit of antifreeze but that is all that's in there once winterized anyway. Only time you would have a problem is if you draw water back into the system.

I'd do all my repairs, upgrades etc and then winterize...
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  #109   IP: 24.138.188.137
Old 04-27-2019, 11:23 AM
Paul Wild Paul Wild is offline
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resources for starting a winterized engine in the spring

Hello everyone,

apologies if this is covered already, perhaps you could point me to the right place if it is. I just bought my first boat: 1980 C&C 27 with an atomic 4 engine. The boat has been on the hard for the winter. I am having it delivered to my home town next week. I'm suddenly realizing how little I know about boats, including the engine! Is there somewhere that would walk me through what I will need to do to get the engine ready for the summer and to get it started?

Thanks so much in advance

Paul
Port Elgin, ON, Canada
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  #110   IP: 108.34.253.10
Old 04-27-2019, 03:30 PM
jcwright jcwright is online now
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Hello Paul.

Here is a link to Moyer's checklist for spring startup:

http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...read.php?t=628

Jack.
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  #111   IP: 24.53.89.131
Old 04-28-2019, 06:07 AM
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some suggestions

Hi Paul,

Congrats on the boat purchase.

1) Get a copy of the Moyer Manual -https://moyermarine.com/product/service-and-overhaul-manual/ Not expensive and a wealth of information re spring commission, winterizing etc.

2) Be aware that marine engines typically mix engine cooling water with the exhaust at some point and this creates potential for getting water into the engine if you are having difficulty starting the engine, with potentially fatal results for the engine. So, be cautious when learning how to start your engine - keep water intake closed unless you are very confident it will fire up with little cranking. Once it starts open intake.

3) Check exhaust system carefully for integrity - leaks in exhaust can be bad for both you/your crew and the engine

4) Check fuel system for integrity - leaks can be deadly

5) make sure you have a properly installed and functioning bilge blower

6) check that choke cable is adjusted properly so that choke closes and opens fully - A4 often likes full choke when cold starting

7) A4 is a simple engine that is easy to maintain yourself, particularly with the assistance of the very knowledgeable and kind folk on this forum. Learning how to keep it in good running order yourself will save you many $ and give you much peace of mind when out on the water.

Hope that helps,

Peter
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  #112   IP: 216.104.120.215
Old 05-12-2019, 08:13 AM
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Thumbs up Marvel Mystery oil available in Canada

I have found a source for the Marvel Mystery Oil in Canada......it is available in all PRINCESS AUTO SUPPLY STORES.
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