Engine quitting when it reaches 160

[sastanley]

Thanks all! Sorry for the hijack...

Mel, Sorry I assumed you were using EI. EI seems to bring in another little issue where we have deduced (oh boy, this is from memory again, someone please correct me if I screw it up) that more internal resistance is needed to reduce the coil input voltage because the dwell is too short with EI (and not adjustable which apparently it may be with points) so the coil has more saturation time and burns itself out as compared to running with points where the saturation time between fires is less (more dwell).

I agree that one of the most frustrating things is fixing the PO's work. I had all kinds of weird stuff going on and eventually re-wired it all from scratch; from the battery to starter to the key to the coil to the engine block ground.

[roadnsky]

My LAST time asking this...

Which leads me after testing the ohms... and voltage. Do I still need a resister if there is one already built in on my solid core coil.

Did you read this post yet?

[Orion C&C 33]

Did you read this post yet?

Hi Jerry...

Yes I've read the thread... tested the coil as suggested

Findings for my coil + terminal to - terminal 4 ohms

Engine running output was 12.99 volts. + terminal to ground on engine block.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong on the testing...

I've provided a photo of the specs on the box in which the coil came in... This is getting more and more confusing for me.. As I was rummaging thru a storage compartment I found another coil on board same thing it was cracked as well.

So I'm to conclude this is chronic condition... even it has a voltage conditioner internally

I am now starting to believe that the present replacement coil will suffer the same fate as it's predecessors.

[Administrator]

The box says the primary resistance is 0.7 ohms. No external resistor? Yep, you're doomed to another failure.

If your NEW coil requires a ballast resistor, you need it when you install the coil, not later, after the damage has been done.

All the necessary info is here. You just need to apply it.

Bill

[Orion C&C 33]

The box says the primary resistance is 0.7 ohms. No external resistor? Yep, you're doomed to another failure.

If your NEW coil requires a ballast resistor, you need it when you install the coil, not later, after the damage has been done.

All the necessary info is here. You just need to apply it.

Bill

Thanks Bill.... The auto parts guy say there is a built in resister when he checked the specs on the coil on line.

I'm beginning to believe despite what was said at Lordco... I'm going to add a ceramic resister as Jerry has suggested from another thread on another post.

This as all new to me so so forgive me on my slow uptake on absorbing all this.
Once this is completed and working on par as it should be, at the end of the sailing season I'm going to re-build my carburetor.... and that will be another can of worms. Hopefully not!

Again thanks Bill... much appreciate your input.

Cheers

Mel

[ndutton]

This is easily solved in one step but it must be followed to the letter. Buy a new coil by calling the Moyer Marine parts line. Do not go to NAPA, do not go to Lordco, do not buy a resistor, do not buy the new coil online and do not use Moyer Marine's online ordering function. YOU MUST SPEAK WITH KEN in Moyer Marine Parts.

We can discuss all the reasons why at a later time but the goal right now is to get this fixed properly and following the above advice faithfully will do so.

Also, please provide a picture of the distributor with the cap removed.

[Orion C&C 33]

This is easily solved in one step but it must be followed to the letter. Buy a new coil by calling the Moyer Marine parts line. Do not go to NAPA, do not go to Lordco, do not buy a resistor, do not buy the new coil online and do not use Moyer Marine's online ordering function. YOU MUST SPEAK WITH KEN in Moyer Marine Parts.

We can discuss all the reasons why at a later time but the goal right now is to get this fixed properly and following the above advice faithfully will do so.

Also, please provide a picture of the distributor with the cap removed.

Hi Neil

This will have wait till next week... Your suggestion although pointed is sound.
It's just that I have spent a tremendous amount of time on this engine and my clients needs have been put on the back burner...

I have put on a resister now, don't cringe your post came in, while I was tinkering about and got the details for the part from another member.
The picture provides shows the resister mounted temporary while running the engine to test things out

Since installing the resister... the coil has cooled down considerably if I can equate it to no more than a warm cup of tea. Sorry I can't do much better than this analogy... But I simply do not have access to an infrared temperature reader.

I did however find another 2 dead coils squirrelled away in the recesses of my boat... Thus making it 4 in total.

So I am lead to conclude this has been an issue with this motor for a very long time.

Enough fixing there is nothing more than I can do... I am carrying a spare coil on board have planned this trip for a while so I'm heading off this weekend.

But I will take your suggestion.... and act on when I get back.

Cheers

Mel

[sastanley]

Mel, please report back about the performance with the resistor when you have some time. Let's hope everything worked OK.

[Orion C&C 33]

Mel, please report back about the performance with the resistor when you have some time. Let's hope everything worked OK.

Hi Shawn...

Just returned from a week long trip... Sorry for my delay in response folks.

Since wind / current conditions were not favourable at times especially going thru the many passes with strong currents the coil and engine worked perfectly...

As I have said earlier, that I do not have a thermal reader... I can only tell you that the many hours of the engine running both at the dock testing and the many hours of traveling under power, the coil remained Luke warm...

It was 4.3 ohms across the terminal and voltage output was 12.3 or there about.
engine temp never changed much, ran at 140 degrees on the gauge and 160 degrees fighting the currents in places like Active and Poliers Pass @ 2000 rpm

She never stalled and seems to be running fine.... It's nice to know with the many suggestions that I have followed as best I could with the limited knowledge, I did however manage to eliminate any other possible causes. Even though at times I found it frustrating because some were dead end leads... even though the suggestions was sincere.

I have finally begun to trust my engine and that is of great importance to me.

The goal also was to know my engine... since a trip next year to Desolation Sound is planned, I feel much better knowing the quirks of my engine and to do any repairs or fixes if so required.

There are no services for parts or even a mechanic for all that matters in an area like Desolation Sound and towing costs would be horrendous to bring her out !!! So yes, I better know my engine.

I do thank all those who submitted their thoughts and ideas...

Cheers

mel

[sastanley]

Mel, thanks for the update...it is indeed a good thing to trust the motor. I was exactly where you were several years ago. That is why we are lucky to have this forum.

[Marty Levenson]

Trip?

Hey Mel,

Where did you go for your week? How was the smoke?

We are off to Jedediah on the weekend, weather (and smoke) permitting.

[Orion C&C 33]

Hey Marty...

Had a wonderful time sailing around the Salt Spring and Saturna Island...
Fun collecting a few oysters... Then we all panicked because we could absolutely confirm any Red tide contamination.

But still complimented our dinners with fresh caught crab and of course no meal is complete without a few select vintage of wine from Osoyoos!!

I'm just in the process to move my boat south of the border to Pt Roberts... to make travel to the islands 9 nautical miles instead of 29 miles.

I think my better half and guests have had enough of Sandheads and the crazy unpredictable waters coming in and out.

The smoke made for some mighty dramatic sunrises and sunsets.... coming home we had visibility of one mile crossing the straight back home, lots of fun!

Happy sailing and safe travels Marty...

Mel

[Orion C&C 33]

Mel, thanks for the update...it is indeed a good thing to trust the motor. I was exactly where you were several years ago. That is why we are lucky to have this forum.

Thanks Shawn... Yes this is a great forum indeed !!!

Cheers Mate !!

Mel

[goodoldboat]

fuel cage

I don't have one but I think I need one ..

What PSI should it read , can I get one from harbor Freight ? its on the
way to the boat ?

[Marty Levenson]

Galiano?

Hey Mel,

Did you consider keeping your boat in Montague? When we lived in Kits we put a mooring down in Montague Harbour, and that worked great for us. Cost $2000 all in, which we recouped when we moved to Bowen (minus diver inspections every other year). We kept our boat there early May - mid September and took the ferry over from Tsawassen most weekends. Kept our dinghy at the government dock - about $30 a summer at the time. That was our base for years of exploring the Gulf Islands.

Next trip consider checking out Wallace Island's Conover Cover and bombproof Annette on Prevost...?

If you get to Bowen give a shout! martylev (at) telus.net

-Marty