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  #1   IP: 166.137.118.87
Old 10-18-2018, 07:02 PM
bruce warren bruce warren is offline
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V drive to straight drive

I have a atomic 4 with regular transmission. Motor has a knock. So got a nother motor but it has a v drive . My question is can I use the shaf of the old transmission to go to straight drive? If that makes any sense to anybody.

Last edited by Administrator; 10-19-2018 at 07:19 AM.
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  #2   IP: 174.204.39.102
Old 10-19-2018, 07:03 AM
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No, the V-drive engine has a special splined tailshaft designed to fit into the V-drive itself. If your old reversing gear assembly is still good, the easiest thing is to swap the whole assembly. This way you get the correct tailshaft. Replacing just a tailshaft is a much harder job.
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  #3   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 10-20-2018, 06:19 PM
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Ed has it right. I've done this job - not hard. Just keep all the rotating parts of the transmission together. Take your direct drive transmission and transplant it complete into the replacement engine.
You'll have to get the top off the transmission. In addition to the bolts, there are a pair of dowel pins to the block - helps a lot to drive these out then replace them later. Keep the transmission cover mated to the block - just swap the internals.
While in there, I recommend you install Moyer's stainless shifter shaft (no more corrosion of that piece!).
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  #4   IP: 45.48.80.165
Old 05-13-2020, 04:18 PM
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Are there any posts or parts in the manual to refer to for making the swap?
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  #5   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 05-13-2020, 07:55 PM
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Removal of the reversing gear is covered in the Moyer Manual under Major Overhaul - Part 3, steps 1 thru 4. Do this removal for both engines. You'll end up with two housings and two rotating assemblies (plus a bunch of misc. parts).
The rotating stuff from the old V-drive engine will get installed into the new engine. The new engine gets it's original housing - don't switch housings.
Reassembly is covered in Major Overhaul - Part 6. Read 'General' and steps 3 thru 8 (don't skip over IMPORTANT NOTE.
If a gasket gets damaged, you'll need a bit of extra sealant (permatex 2a).
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  #6   IP: 45.48.80.165
Old 05-13-2020, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Schober View Post
Removal of the reversing gear is covered in the Moyer Manual under Major Overhaul - Part 3, steps 1 thru 4. Do this removal for both engines. You'll end up with two housings and two rotating assemblies (plus a bunch of misc. parts).
The rotating stuff from the old V-drive engine will get installed into the new engine. The new engine gets it's original housing - don't switch housings.
Reassembly is covered in Major Overhaul - Part 6. Read 'General' and steps 3 thru 8 (don't skip over IMPORTANT NOTE.
If a gasket gets damaged, you'll need a bit of extra sealant (permatex 2a).
So in a sense all I am doing is swapping out the reversing gear assembly? Right?
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  #7   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 05-13-2020, 09:44 PM
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Yep! Replacing the entire rotating assembly is the easiest way I've found to do that job.
Need I say again, don't swap the housings. Things won't line up.
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  #8   IP: 45.48.80.165
Old 05-14-2020, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Schober View Post
Yep! Replacing the entire rotating assembly is the easiest way I've found to do that job.
Need I say again, don't swap the housings. Things won't line up.
Thanks again. I am working on backing out the adjusting nut. Just wanted to clarify. Is the ramp plate the mechanical piece off to the right in this photo?
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Old 05-14-2020, 06:39 PM
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Thanks to Moyer forum, the manual, and especially AL I was able to wrap my head around what needed to be done!! Its a really simple job!! So stoked right now!
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  #10   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 05-14-2020, 07:44 PM
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If I couldn't see the bits of gunk around the perimeter of the casing, I'd say that mechanism looks like it rolled out of the factory last month.
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Old 05-14-2020, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tenders View Post
If I couldn't see the bits of gunk around the perimeter of the casing, I'd say that mechanism looks like it rolled out of the factory last month.
Yea pretty nice. It's nice to see the inside of the oil pan too considering there is surface rust on the block.
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Old 05-15-2020, 09:31 AM
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The oil pan is ridiculously thick and not prone to failure. I was terrified when I bought my boat in 1991 that the flakes/sheets of rust that were pulling off from the bottom of the pan would go right through. In fact this was a major reason for getting the engine rebuilt in 1993. Ha ha ha! The rust barely marked the bottom of the pan, and, it turns out, used replacement pans are very easy to find in part because they don't fail.
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Old 05-15-2020, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenders View Post
The oil pan is ridiculously thick and not prone to failure. I was terrified when I bought my boat in 1991 that the flakes/sheets of rust that were pulling off from the bottom of the pan would go right through. In fact this was a major reason for getting the engine rebuilt in 1993. Ha ha ha! The rust barely marked the bottom of the pan, and, it turns out, used replacement pans are very easy to find in part because they don't fail.
Thanks. I'm getting more and more stoked
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  #14   IP: 166.137.246.98
Old 05-16-2020, 07:04 PM
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Great news the reversing gear matches up to my replacement motor. Can I get away with the old gaskets and permatex?
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  #15   IP: 166.137.246.98
Old 05-16-2020, 07:05 PM
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Here she is lined up
Edit will post picture from desktop
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Old 05-17-2020, 12:14 AM
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I have 2 gaskets left from my overhaul, you can get them for the price of shipping. Not sure ether you are,.. I am in RI
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  #17   IP: 45.48.80.165
Old 05-19-2020, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Surcouf View Post
I have 2 gaskets left from my overhaul, you can get them for the price of shipping. Not sure ether you are,.. I am in RI
I'll take you up on that. I'm in California.
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