Exhaust Standpipe

[edwardc]

I've tried the freeze spray, both on it's own and alternating it with heat from a MAAP torch. I found it totally ineffective.

Kroil or Acetone/ATF mix are your two best bets for penetrant, as others here have suggested.

I've also found that impact forces can help, but don't go overboard. Light taps on the bolt heads with a hammer will produce shock waves that can help the penetrant do it's thing. An impact driver can also be effective, but only of its a relatively weak one, like the battery powered ones. (Where's a sonic screwdriver when you need it! ) The pneumatic ones are powerfull enough to twist the head right off unless they have an adjustable force setting. In any case, just use short bursts, and if they don't produce any movement, use heat and more soak time.

Patience and time are the key here to a successful outcome. Good luck.

[gmilburn]

Crazy Question, probably know the answer

While I was shopping for black pipe for my hot exhaust side at Lowes last evening, I saw all the 6 inch PVC pipe and fittings that could easily be configured into a water lift muffler. But I expect that it wouldn't withstand the exhaust heat. Anyone know for sure? What is the temp of the exiting exhaust? Thanks for replying to my wild ass idea!

[TomG]

While I was shopping for black pipe for my hot exhaust side at Lowes last evening, I saw all the 6 inch PVC pipe and fittings that could easily be configured into a water lift muffler. But I expect that it wouldn't withstand the exhaust heat. Anyone know for sure? What is the temp of the exiting exhaust? Thanks for replying to my wild ass idea!

gmilburn,

I think using PVC is a bad idea. PVC is a thermoplastic and I know from first hand experience that PVC becomes quite flexible when heat is applied. Even more problematic is that when heat is applied to PVC (above 70°C), the chloride begins to break down and this process is self-sustaining, i.e., autocatalytic.

It might work for a while, but I would be seriously concerned about CO poisoning from a leak that would soon develop. I would also count on it failing at the most crucial moment. PVC pipe and fittings of the diameter you need are pretty expensive. For comparison, I found this Vetus at pyatch for just over a boat unit: Vetus-LP30-waterlock



If it were my boat, I'd save somewhere else and spend the savings here. As Dave Neptune says, "Do it right, cry once."

[sastanley]

Bill...thanks for the link...I finally bought some Kroil.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I don't know how much you pay yourself for an hourly rate, but in your situation I would get the whole thing off at the manifold and start from scratch. Black iron pipe is dirt cheap and a new flange is worth the money.

Yup.
This is what I did on my last hot section rebuild.
I got the flange off the manifold and took the whole mess to a machine shop. It was an automotive machine shop but he had the equipment to work on 1 1/4" pipe threads. He removed the stub from the flange and cleaned up the threads and cracked the pipe off the injection part and cleaned up those threads also. Only charged me $35 bucks and it was done in four days.
Before I took the hot section to the machine shop I went to the hardware store and matched up the necessary plumbing parts and then drew a diagram of how it went together. Piece of cake.

TRUE GRIT

[gmilburn]

Thanks John for the tip of removing the whole exhaust manifold and taking it to a machine shop. Do the bolts holding the exhaust manifold come out easier than the ones holding the hot section to the exhaust manifold or do they seize to the block? I have bought the Kroil and intend to soak the bolts this weekend. I'll keep everyone posted. And Ill check out the Vetus muffler.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Hydrophilic
I took the flang off the manifold. The manifold stayed on the engine. Sorry for the miscommunication. I was commenting on Hanley's post. Guess I wasn't clear.

TRUE GRIT

[gmilburn]

Standpipe Rebuild

Hi all,
Thought I would take a moment to update the group.

First off, I used a sawsall to cut the pipe coming off the exhaust manifold about one inch from the manifold flange.

Then I had to get the bolts out of the exhaust manifold. Kroil is excellent at creeping into tight threads and loosening rusted bolts. I squirted it liberally, then waited a day or two and squirted it again, and then bought a 6 point socket to fit the bolt head perfectly--and walla--both broke loose.

Then I went to a custom machine shop with the old rusty standpipe and the E-29 drawings from the Ericson site. They first refused my project--but after challenging them as to whether they didnt have the skill set to do the project--the guy puffed his chest out and said they could do such a project easily. Then I dropped the fact that I was restoring an old sailboat--and I would pay them well for the project, they agreed. A week and $220 later, I had a new standpipe.

Ive attached a couple of photos for those that might like to see what resides under all the fiberglass or asbestos insulation.

Next is the project of coupling the two pieces together via the pipe union and recovering the hot section with new fiberglass tape.

Most interesting is the place where the pipe rusted out--I would have thought it would be at the bottom of standpipe rather than the exhaust riser--as without a drain plug in the bottom--water always stands in the stand pipe. Perhaps its because this has always been a fresh water boat.

Regardless, I will keep you posted on mounting the beast--my weekend project.

[TomG]

Nice work.

::::Golf clap::::

[toddster]

Weird. Mine was an identical (freshwater) unit, but it rusted out at the top of the standpipe. All of the real rot was underneath the little toque of insulation, which I assume means that the insulation was trapping moisture in there. It's also possible that the insulation caused higher pipe temperatures, but the number of hours that the engine was running, compared to time sitting at the dock, would have been very small.



However, the whole hot-section had the identical kind of insulation, so I dunno.