My A4 adventures

[Ando]

Sounds like you are running on one bowl full of fuel. Then the engine dies. If you have an electronic fuel pump try shorting across or bypassing the OPSS.

ex TRUE GRIT

Yes, it does seem like I’m running on a bowl. Very true. OPSS has been bypassed.

[Ando]

I see, but the bypass being closed prevents water going through that area anyway, right? The “bypass” to me means the valve between the water jacket and the thermostat...or is it something else?

Ohh, bc water also enters the thermostat area from the ports within the block itself. I recall seeing those ports now. I think I understand now.

[ndutton]

Take out the thermostat, close the bypass valve, open the intake thru-hull when the engine is running, close it during prolonged cranking (no-start or hard-start). Next time I'm there I'll explain the why and wherefore in detail.

[edwardc]

... I’m not planning on starting her up again until I get some suggestions on how to re-work this thermostat housing so that it doesn’t leak water.

When I read this thread, two possibilities came to mind:

1. aftermarket single-spring thermostats are a bit taller than the OEM Holley ones, and require a spacer to fit properly. Moyer sells them.
2. The OEM cast iron thermostat covers tend to corrode badly over time, and may not seal properly. A Bronze replacement cover from Moyer fixes that.

[Ando]

When I read this thread, two possibilities came to mind:

1. aftermarket single-spring thermostats are a bit taller than the OEM Holley ones, and require a spacer to fit properly. Moyer sells them.
2. The OEM cast iron thermostat covers tend to corrode badly over time, and may not seal properly. A Bronze replacement cover from Moyer fixes that.

Thank you, I think that spacer might help too. I have the single action after market one as well as the bronze housing. No spacer tho. Let me try the things ndutton is saying and solve those e fine start up issues and then I’ll move on to the thermostat leak.

[ndutton]

Update on the Ando project
We had a very brief session at his boat today, like maybe 30 minutes but here is what we learned:

1. SHE RUNS!! And quite smoothly but not without a few issues yet to solve.
2. We ran it off an auxiliary tank to eliminate known on board fuel storage and delivery problems, to be solved later.
3. The OPSS has been bypassed for the time being, we'll add it back in when the engine is running properly.
4. It would only run on 3/4 choke. Any less would threaten a stall. The carburetor will come off again for a thorough cleaning and inspection, the vacuum port (PCV) spacer is coming off to minimize potential vacuum leaks, the manifold bolts will be torqued down. If there is no improvement, I have a known-good spare carburetor we will install.
5. There is good water flow out the exhaust.
6. I dropped off the high temperature pipe sealant mentioned earlier so he can eliminate his exhaust leaks.
7. Batteries are still anemic, slated for replacement.
8. Ando has a gorgeous new MMI thermostat and it is clear he did not have it properly seated in the housing groove (crescent shaped scar on the flat base plate). It is removed for now but will be added back in later. No spacer needed.
9. I took a more accurate coil resistance measurement with my better tester, 3.8Ω.

Ando is solving problems one at a time and making progress so thus far I'm calling it a success. He's got the bug, would rather tinker on the engine than go to work. Who among us hasn't been there?

[Ando]

He's got the bug, would rather tinker on the engine than go to work. Who among us hasn't been there?

I did play (a little) hookie from work yesterday

[Al Schober]

Neil,
You inspire the rest of us to go beyond the call of duty! Or, perhaps shame us! Well done.

[ndutton]

Thank you Al but really all I'm doing is paying it forward. Throughout my lifetime I've benefited from advice/tutoring/instruction from a variety of people and not only about engines. Now it's my turn to help if I can.

Ando is by his own admission a complete newbie and is eager to learn. Being a newbie is not a bad thing because he doesn't bring bad habits with him. He is the one who has been turning the wrenches, not me. All I've done is a little hint here, a little nudge there. When he is through he will have done a complete engine swap including considerable troubleshooting.

He'll be helping someone else in the not too distant future, I'm sure of it.

[Ando]

Neil,
You inspire the rest of us to go beyond the call of duty!

Agreed...yes he does

[Ando]

He'll be helping someone else in the not too distant future, I'm sure of it.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Neil. I'd love that.

[Ando]

I worked on her all day yesterday and have the following to report:

a. The issue with it only running on 3/4 choke: The carburetor came off and, upon inspection I found nothing, but Neil found that the gasket between the two halves was for an early model carburator (because the gasket doesn't cover the area where the fifth screw is located)...I have a late model carburator. I mistakenly ordered the early model carb rebuild kit rather than the late model rebuild kit. At the time I ordered the rebuild kit (and before the engine swap), I had an early model engine and I guess I just assumed that the carb was an early model as well (it's was a late model carb).
Note: I called Ken at Moyer and asked him if the jets are the same in both early and late model rebuild kits, or whether it's just the gasket that is different. He told me that the jets are different as well. That got me thinking whether I messed up my late model carb by putting early model jets in it. Ken said that the threads are the same thank goodness so that eleiminated my concern that I might have cross threaded the jet ports. I can say that I do recall the jets screwing in quite easily. That has yet to be confirmed with a test run. I ordered the late model carb rebuild kit and will let you all know if all is well once its back on the motor.

b. the vacuum port (PCV) spacer is off to minimize potential vacuum leaks,

c. the manifold bolts were be torqued down. The one in the middle was loose.

d. I disassembled the exhaust connection to the manifold and used the high temperature pipe sealant mentioned earlier. Yet to be tested to see if it resolved the exhaust leaks.

e. Batteries were removed and tested. They were dead and unsalvagable so I got two new ones from Sam's Club for $130 total.

f. Thermostat was reseated properly, I think , I hope. We'll see.

g. Fuel storage and delivery problems, to be solved later.

[Sculldog1]

Ando, I have been reading your saga and admire your resolve. Your story is a lot like my own. I bought a Pearson 30 Oct. 2018 with a late model A4. it ran well as I sailed the boat a dozen times till an early Dec. haulout (I am in New Bedford) then after winterizing and recomissioning had a great season. The season had a troubling end as the head gasket began leaking water out the back onto the coil. The leak had to be weaping for a while as considerable corrosion in that area is from more than just this season. Must have been a little drip,drip, drip kind of thing cuz I never noticed any moisture or steam in the engine area before. Any how I removed the head and sure enough the gasket was blown between cylinders 3 & 2 as well as back studs came out with nuts so water came out but luckily not into oil. Gonna put it back together this week and start getting ready for Mid April Splash. Keep at it and good to here a similar story.

[Ando]

Keep us posted Sculldog, that is quite a saga as well

[ndutton]

Ando, I have been reading your saga and admire your resolve

Indeed. Lacking resolve concludes with paying marina fees for a floating barge or a maybe charity auction instead. There are a lot of sad stories out there but we won't have it on this forum.