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  #1   IP: 71.220.127.169
Old 08-06-2016, 11:33 AM
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MN John MN John is offline
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Hello from MN! 1960 Tripp 30 w/ 1967 Atomic 4

Hello everyone! I have been reading and getting a ton of information from this forum. I love my A-4 and this forum and MMI are priceless, and I thank u all for that.
I would like to introduce myself, and my motor.
We currently sail on lake pepin, in our 1960 Tripp 30 with A-4 inboard.
the p.o. in my opinion did a very nice job installing this A-4 around 2000- 05?
It is a mix of late and old model A-4, is in very nice condition IMO. i was fortunate to benefit from some of the work p.o. put into including but not limited to indigo E.I. indigo 3- blade, massive perko raw water filter, electric fuel pump, and many other things like oil change kit quick change water pump plate, etc, etc.
Since purchasing the boat and now into my second season I have done what I can to continue to upgrade and maintain the motor, and a growing list of spares that are carried aboard. Some but not all improvements have been, full exhaust replacement, cooling system bypass kit and thermostat housing conversion, carb rebuild, fuel pressure gauge, and have replaced alot of items on motor, to have the still working parts replaced as spares, like coil, d-cap, rotor, fuel pump etc.
I would like to think I am a good customer of MMI (spending a good amount on parts ) and have learned so much from speaking with Ken, and reading on the forum.
Well i realize this is getting long so I will spare u all the stories about issues I hve had and overcome and work i have done (yes I tinker maybe even too much?) but it has lead me to learn so much about the motor and prepared me for future issues.
Now I will try to attach some photos, the photos are about a year old and it is even better now but i will have to get a more current photo.
please ask if you wanna know anything else about the motor, as u can probably tell I would be more than happy to share/talk motors
I am just dying to ask about a million questions but i will try to hold off for now.
Again, Thank you MMI, Ken, and the community forum!
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  #2   IP: 71.200.116.197
Old 08-07-2016, 05:38 PM
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Welcome!

welcome to the forum. Many friendly and knowledgeable folks here.

James
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  #3   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 08-07-2016, 08:21 PM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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Welcome to the forum!
You don't want to ask questions? OK, I'll ask you a couple. First, where's your water temp sender? I don't see one on the front of the head. Second, what's that gizmo on your starter? Turbo-start?
Good looking engine!
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  #4   IP: 174.58.77.1
Old 08-07-2016, 10:14 PM
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Looks like a solenoid on the starter. I was wondering about the sender too.
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  #5   IP: 71.220.127.169
Old 08-08-2016, 09:54 AM
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temp sender location

I left the water temp sender where p.o. had it installed. It is visible between block and starter. I already have the new sender for the front of head location, but that plug isnt coming out easy. I have never reached a temp reading over 120, so I assume that the current location is not accurate? or it really is that cold and could have something to do with the sooty plugs and slight build up around valves (looking thru spark plug holes).
I run no t-stat with the bypass kit from MMI. good flow out exhaust. this kinda goes with one of the million questions i wanted to ask. Thanks for bringing it up.
Its a early model block with early model prestolite starter, and yes that is the solenoid

Thanks!
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  #6   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 08-08-2016, 10:48 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN John View Post
I have never reached a temp reading over 120, so I assume that the current location is not accurate? or it really is that cold and could have something to do with the sooty plugs and slight build up around valves (looking thru spark plug holes).
Thanks!
It is accurate for the temperature you want to read. The question is what temp do you want to read: engine temp, cylinder head temp, or the temp of the water after it leaves the engine ie in the manifold?
The published "normal"temps are head temps.
It would be fun to get one of those fancy IR thermometers and check the temps in different locations on your* engine.

TRUE GRIT

*This has been done before but not on your engine.
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  #7   IP: 137.200.32.6
Old 08-08-2016, 11:01 AM
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AFAIK that would be an oil temp sender there. The normal location for the water temp sender is one the front of the engine. If it does go into the water jacket, that would not be a very good place to read coolant temps. It gets a lot hotter up in the head.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:21 AM
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  #8   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 08-08-2016, 11:33 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN John View Post
I already have the new sender for the front of head location, but that plug isnt coming out easy.
Thanks!
I forgot to mention..........
Use your favorite penetrating goop on the plug for two weeks and tap the plug with a hammer after you apply the goop. Do this daily for two weeks. Then start the engine and let it get good and warmed up. While the engine is still running try to loosen he plug with an impact wrench. The heat + vibration from the engine running will help loosen it.
I saw the brass what ever it is on the left in the picture but it didn't look like it was in a water jacket drain hole - maybe it is? Also didn't see a wire running from it.

TRUE GRIT
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  #9   IP: 137.200.32.6
Old 08-08-2016, 11:43 AM
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The way I got my old thermostat out was an impact socket and a long breaker bar + some PB Blaster. A normal socket will likely round it off.
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  #10   IP: 71.220.127.169
Old 08-09-2016, 11:49 AM
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thanks for the advice!
The current location is in water jacket as I have drained the block from that location when winterizing. I guess I would prefer the head location for the gauge reading. Unfortunately, the plug is a square head that has quite a bit of damage. So I think getting a socket to fit wouldn't be possible. I will use the heat/vibration and some aerokroil, and that should do the trick. we use a temp gun all the time at work when pre-heating before welding, so I will be able to check temps in different locations, never thought about it, great idea, thanks!
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  #11   IP: 137.200.32.38
Old 08-09-2016, 12:05 PM
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If you are really worried about it, forget that plug and put a T fitting in the front connection of the manifold. That should give you a good indication of coolant temperature.
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  #12   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 08-09-2016, 01:06 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN John View Post
Unfortunately, the plug is a square head that has quite a bit of damage. So I think getting a socket to fit wouldn't be possible. I will use the heat/vibration and some aerokroil, and that should do the trick. we use a temp gun all the time at work when pre-heating before welding, so I will be able to check temps in different locations, never thought about it, great idea, thanks!
Can you get a pipe wrench on the rounded plug?
I don't know anything about welding but could you use the preheating machine from work to toast the plug a bit? Or is it to big to bring to the boat? If you have a gas welding outfit heat the plug with that maybe?

TRUE GRIT

My A4 has some sort of bushing in the hole then the temp sending threads into that.
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  #13   IP: 71.220.127.169
Old 08-09-2016, 02:07 PM
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I am fairly confident that I will be able to get it out, I just have not had the chance to put a proper effort into it yet.
We use a infrared light (that is about the size of a 4' flourescent) for a more controlled heating and I am no stranger to using a torch with a rose bud for heating. Both would be an option if I waited until off season and had it back at the shop.
Since i am in the water now, I think i will use running the motor for heat when I am ready to give it a try, i like that idea and I think i might get some strange looks if I haul the torch set down to the boat.
Yes I should be able to get a pipe wrench on it and will try with a 12" before I pull out the 24"er
i will take a look for that bushing as well, I assume that could play to my favor if the threads are damaged at all and might be a bit of a cushion for the head casting if I really get torquing on it. Seems like cast iron can be brittle sometimes, that would be one way u could ruin your day. always scares me tightening the manifold and carb to intake. Fortunately, I think the A-4 castings are probably really high quality, being made in the U.S. and during that era! imo
Thanks again for the info and help guys, makes me want to start a new thread with some questions on a few other topics for advice
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  #14   IP: 71.178.85.239
Old 08-09-2016, 07:12 PM
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MN John, you may as well just keep it here. If you use this link, www.moyermarine.com/forums/index.php , it takes you to the latest posts, regardless of location in the forum...most of us use this and see all the newer stuff come up.

My initial post in 2008 carried on for 6 months. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2738

it is old enough now that some of the old pictures have been deleted (by me, sorry.), but the information is as relevant today as it was then..I just happened to be 8 years ahead of you!
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Last edited by sastanley; 08-09-2016 at 07:27 PM.
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