#1
IP: 71.112.53.68
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Engine Died Again
Well,
So I am buffeled with my engine as it chronically runs for an hour, dies and strarts right up 10 minutes later. Checked the coil and i have spark. Emptied the fuel tank completely, filled with clean gas. Checked the spark plugs and they are clean. I still don;t know why this is happening. Any more ideas. I have read through the threads that it is a fuel related problem but how? Do i need to remove the carb and see how it is looking inside? If the carb was the issue how can it be that 10 minutes later the engine start? Do the impurities clear up so quickly? I am at my wits end and don;t know how much more i can take of this before i really put the boat out of comission for the summer? Please help. |
#2
IP: 71.252.20.96
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When the engine dies, do you immediately (I mean immediately) check for spark? My engine would run reliably for 75 minutes and fade out & die as if I had a fuel problem..I am now convinced it was the coil getting hot. If I tried to restart it right away, it would run for 5 more minutes, then 2, then 30 seconds, and then finally would not restart (uh oh...close the thru-hull while cranking on my Catalina 30!!)
I think the coil would get hot, and then it would magically start up again when I needed it after I checked a few things, like poked around for fuel delivery, pulled a plug wire, made sure I had 12 volts, etc.etc.., let it sit for a minute, and then it would run for 5 minutes or so. When I tested it repeatedly, immediately after failure (I thought I was seeing spark when I pulled a plug wire)...eventually, it would no longer run. Fortunately, I had navigable waters, & a patient wife who was willing to try something new (sail into the raft up with friends!! ) - I've had no problems like this since I replaced the coil.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 07-10-2009 at 11:12 PM. Reason: more detail |
#3
IP: 76.101.146.224
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I also had the same issue a couple of years ago and I replaced my coil and haven't had any problems since. The coil sounds like it is getting overheated and caused the coil to malfuntion. The coil will cool down relatively quickly and then the engine starts up and runs fine until it overheats again.
Coils are fairly inexpensive and worth a shot. I have not done this myself but I have read some threads that it may be worth considering removing the coil from its bracket on the engine and mounting it away from the engin on the bulkhead inside of your engine compartment. This will require a longer coil wire however. Seems like a logical idea. Best of luck with your engine. |
#4
IP: 69.23.66.15
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Engine Dies
Yep. Likewise I had the same problem and it was the coil. Check the resistance across the coil. I think that the A-4 requires 3.5 ohms. If it is any less the coil will overheat and fail. Sometimes you can start it right back up and run in idle but as soon as you put a load on the motor the coil will overheat and begin to fail again.
You can order a new coil from Moyer for about $39 and have it in time to install before next weekend. Al Lankford |
#5
IP: 76.247.171.195
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If you have an in line fuel filter it could be clogging after powering for a while. I would check this out. Just a thought as I have had these same symptoms with car engines and it turned out that the fuel filter was clogged. It would run for while and then start to sputter and die. If you waited for a while the engine would start only to do the same thing after running for a while.
DVD |
#6
IP: 74.218.61.113
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If you haven't installed a rubber priming bulb in the fuel line, do it now. When the engine starts to die, squeeze the bulb a few times. If it revs back up, or restarts right away, you've probably got a fuel issue. My tank is dirty and my filters clog quickly. I know it's time to change filters when the engine starts to sputter and the priming bulb revives it.
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Mark Smith 1977 c&c30 Mk1 hailing from Port Clinton, Ohio |
#7
IP: 71.112.58.204
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Thank you all for your help so far. I went ahead an ordered a new coil from Moyer Marine and am looking forward to seeing if that fixes my problem. I will also install a new priming bulb just before to see if that help. I replaced the fuel/water seperator about a month ago. I will try to run the engine from a 5 gallon external tank to see if it dies. It is does than I am definitely removing the fuel tank. Thank you all.
Aldi Kllogjeri S/V Sandspur Catalina 27 |
#8
IP: 71.252.20.96
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Aldi,
Your 3 ideas are good ones..I would recommend each one, one at a time, so you can try to figure out which was the issue. I recently removed my squeezy priming bulb from my system, since I realized that squeezing the crap out of it didn't solve my engine quitting problem..it still died. It turns out, it was the coil..the mech. fuel pump had no problem sucking fuel from the tank on my boat. My point is, try one at a time, so you know the solution!!
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#9
IP: 71.112.58.204
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Shawn,
Thank you. I plan to do that one at a time as it does get expensive if i start replacing part without knowing where the problem lies. I will aslo revome the coil from the engine mount somewhere else away from a lot of vibration and less direct engine heat. I hope the coil fixes everything since it is the least expensive to replace. Aldi |
#10
IP: 209.128.29.254
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Dies and then starts back up in 5 - 10 Minutes
I seem to be having a similar problem. With no rhyme or reason my A4 just shuts off (sometimes) after 1hr or so of running. When it shuts off I check the spark on a plug, I have no spark. By the time I get back to the points, I get spark there. Put everything back together and I now have spark on the plug and everything runs again.
The coil on my boat is labeled "for use with external resistor". What does that resistor look like and where would I likely find it? Or, could I test with a multimemeter to see if it's in the circuit? Another question is: what would be the symptoms of using this coil without an external resistor? Help would be greatly appreciated. Steve |
#11
IP: 142.68.241.121
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Quote:
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1974 C&C 27 |
#12
IP: 64.231.123.210
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Quote:
In regards to your first question: the ballast resistor should be somewhere in the + feed to the coil just before the + terminal. If you can not see it (and the coil is labelled for use with external resistor) then I think you have found the problem! |
#13
IP: 209.128.29.254
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Rigspelt
Thanks for the input. I have gone back through some of the primary and I did find some bad connections and have cleaned them up. I am hesitant to assume I've fixed it yet though. I will look for solinoids/switches to clean up as well. Another Symptom that I have is that I get some sooting on my #1 and #4 plugs. I am in the process of replacing the plug wires so I don't want to mix up 2 different issues, but perhaps they are related. I do want to order a new coil so I'm still very interested in an answer to my question about the reseitor if anyone can help. thanks |
#14
IP: 209.128.29.254
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Thanks 67c&ccorv
I will do some more looking and hopefully the previous owner has just bought the wrong coil. He only did very short 15 min - 45 min motors so he may not have experienced this as I have since doing some more cruising. Thanks again for all the help. Keep it coming please. Steve |
#15
IP: 193.253.220.149
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I've been through this problem so I usually pipe-up with my limited experience and insight.
Similar symptoms: engine runs well for 60-90 minutes before dying suddenly. Restarts 15-30 minutes later and cycle starts over. I changed/adjusted three things and this problem went away: new coil, new condenser (often overlooked but a possible source of this type of behavior) and cleaned electrical connections in the ignition circuit. This was my solution but another possibility could be falling oil pressure that eventually trips the low oil pressure sensor. After cooling and thickening of the oil, the engine could start anew and the fun of the cycle continues... Kelly
__________________
Kelly 1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda Ketch, Wind and Atomic powered |
#16
IP: 209.128.29.254
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I just had the engine die on me agaain this weekend but it took over an hour for it to come back. In the meantime I started going back through everything that is in the ignition. I did discover that the points gap was about 2 - 3 times wider than it should be so I corrected that. Does anyone have any thought on whether that could be a root to the problem (intermitted points contact overheating coil, etc.)
Thanks |
#17
IP: 68.104.51.117
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How does it run BEFORE it dies?
Have you CLEANED the points? (Just touch them up with a piece of cardboard) While you're in there make sure the wire to the coil isn't shorting. (Usually where it leaves the distributor housing) For what it's worth, I still suspect your coil...
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
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