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The war is over.
Springs are replaced, and the engine runs!
It is possible to replace the valve springs without removing the head, and with the engine still in the boat.
The Lisle Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor tool will in fact fit over the head and still be able to slip under the springs. Cautionary note: the metal used in the tool "fork" is brittle, and breaks fairly easily if you use it to "pry" between spring and retainer. Better to use a fine screwdriver to do the prying, then slip the tool into that space.
It took a while to learn the pattern:
1. Lift the spring and retainer disc together.
2. Tap the valve stem down to free the two keepers.
3) Reset the clamp spring compressor and now lift just the spring. Remove the retainer disc.
4) Remove the clamp and remove the spring.
5) Install new spring, use clamp to raise it over the lifter.
6) Place the retainer on the lifter and lower the spring.
7) Raise the retainer and spring together and stick the two keepers in place using a dab of grease to keep them in place.
8). Carefully lower the spring and retainer over the keepers. Be sure they set properly. (amazingly, usually the spring would slip out of the clamp at the last minute and "pop" into place. Relief and amazement ensues as I checked for proper placement. Yowzer!)
That process can take 10 to 30 minutes per valve depending on access, patience, and technique.
Avoid lowering the spring and retainer improperly on the two keepers. Un-doing jammed keepers is a real pain! (how do I know???)
Also, I noticed that my exhaust manifold gasket was burned through in several places, allowing exhaust gases to leak out (bad!).
The MMI valve cover plate studs were a big help, and I recommend them.
I used extra, longer bolts to temporarily hold the heavy and unwieldy manifold in place, then one at a time installed the original bolts.
Also did a carburetor clean/rebuild with a new gasket. New intake flange gasket too.
I was very pleased to hear her fire right up and run quietly. No clacking valves!
The broken spring was fixed, and the sticky valve was freed.
The engine seems to be much happier with new gaskets = better intake suction, no exhaust leaks.
Whew, I hope I never have to do that one again!
Photo captions:
1. Original bad condition. Note stuck valve on cyl#2 and broken spring on cyl#3.
2. New springs in place with new plate studs.
3. Cover in place with studs and nuts.
4. Broken spring shown.
5. Burnt manifold gasket. (have you checked yours lately?)
Anyhow, thanks to all (especially TomThatch!) for the encouragement and advice.
Now I get to report back to Ken in Parts that I don't need those head gaskets after all...
-Rick
Springs are replaced, and the engine runs!
It is possible to replace the valve springs without removing the head, and with the engine still in the boat.
The Lisle Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor tool will in fact fit over the head and still be able to slip under the springs. Cautionary note: the metal used in the tool "fork" is brittle, and breaks fairly easily if you use it to "pry" between spring and retainer. Better to use a fine screwdriver to do the prying, then slip the tool into that space.
It took a while to learn the pattern:
1. Lift the spring and retainer disc together.
2. Tap the valve stem down to free the two keepers.
3) Reset the clamp spring compressor and now lift just the spring. Remove the retainer disc.
4) Remove the clamp and remove the spring.
5) Install new spring, use clamp to raise it over the lifter.
6) Place the retainer on the lifter and lower the spring.
7) Raise the retainer and spring together and stick the two keepers in place using a dab of grease to keep them in place.
8). Carefully lower the spring and retainer over the keepers. Be sure they set properly. (amazingly, usually the spring would slip out of the clamp at the last minute and "pop" into place. Relief and amazement ensues as I checked for proper placement. Yowzer!)
That process can take 10 to 30 minutes per valve depending on access, patience, and technique.
Avoid lowering the spring and retainer improperly on the two keepers. Un-doing jammed keepers is a real pain! (how do I know???)
Also, I noticed that my exhaust manifold gasket was burned through in several places, allowing exhaust gases to leak out (bad!).
The MMI valve cover plate studs were a big help, and I recommend them.
I used extra, longer bolts to temporarily hold the heavy and unwieldy manifold in place, then one at a time installed the original bolts.
Also did a carburetor clean/rebuild with a new gasket. New intake flange gasket too.
I was very pleased to hear her fire right up and run quietly. No clacking valves!
The broken spring was fixed, and the sticky valve was freed.
The engine seems to be much happier with new gaskets = better intake suction, no exhaust leaks.
Whew, I hope I never have to do that one again!
Photo captions:
1. Original bad condition. Note stuck valve on cyl#2 and broken spring on cyl#3.
2. New springs in place with new plate studs.
3. Cover in place with studs and nuts.
4. Broken spring shown.
5. Burnt manifold gasket. (have you checked yours lately?)
Anyhow, thanks to all (especially TomThatch!) for the encouragement and advice.
Now I get to report back to Ken in Parts that I don't need those head gaskets after all...
-Rick
Attached Files
Many other small projects in line and priorities are what they are.
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