Vacuum Guage Test Results

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  • Rick_Powers
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2008
    • 125

    Vacuum Guage Test Results

    Hello,

    If you remember the previous thread "Fuel Starvation, Arg!", the problem was that after running in forward at full throttle for 12 seconds, the engine would bog down to about half thrust.

    After checking and eliminating the fuel intake mesh, fuel filter, fuel line leaks, installing a new (and second) fuel pump, the problem persisted. Even tried a seperate portable gas can to further eliminate all of the above.

    So Don Moyer suggested that it might have something to do with the intake manifold vacuum pressure. He very kindly sent me a prototype kit of a vacuum test guage.

    It consists of a vacuum dial guage that reads up to 30mm Hg. The dial connects to a plastic tube which attaches to a barb fitting that screws into the place where the carb scavenge tube fits into the intake manifold. So, as the engine calls for fuel, you can measure the vacuum demand.

    I installed the gauge and ran some tests.

    Not knowing what I should expect, here are the data:


    Throttle Gear Pressure

    Idle Neutral 15mm
    Idle Forward 15mm
    Idle Reverse 15mm

    Mid Neutral 15mm
    Mid Forward 10mm
    Mid Reverse 15mm

    Full Neutral 15mm
    Full Forward 3mm
    Full Reverse 15mm


    As you can see from the results, the intake manifold pressure drops under forward load.

    What does THAT mean? Could it be possible that my packing gland is too tight, causing friction and heavy load after 12 seconds of running in forward? Then a rest lets water re-lubricate the flax, then the cycle repeats? Is that possible?

    I can sustain high rpm in neutral all day long.

    What a puzzle!
    __________________________________________________ _________

    Here is Don's response:

    "Rick,

    Your vacuum readings in forward are very consistent with Universal’s test stand values which were 16” at idle, 14” at half throttle, and 3” at full throttle.

    My experience (and hence my understanding) of vacuum analysis is very limited. I can only relate to manifold vacuum values as a function of throttle position and RPM; e.g. it is at a maximum when the throttle valve is closed with the engine “sucking” against the almost closed throttle valve at idle (16”), and at a minimum when the throttle valve is fully open (3”) and the engine is sucking air through the open carburetor throat (and whatever dirt may be clogging the flame arrestor screen).

    You don’t report your RPM, but Universal’s vacuum data relates to 500 RPM at idle, 1500 RPM at mid throttle, and 3500 at wide open throttle (WOT). I should note that this is test stand data where Universal had complete control over the load they placed on the engine which would have been 12 HP at 1500 RPM and 30 HP at 3500 RPM.

    A couple notes on Universal’s RPM data; (1) we find that 500 RPM is a bit low for idle with 800 being more comfortable for in-service conditions and (2), there is no known prop that allows us to duplicate their WOT of 3500 RPM and 30 HP but WOT is WOT and I would think that 3” would be a reasonable value at any reasonable RPM in the range of 2500 and above.

    With respect to vacuum values with a partially blocked exhaust, the guide I forwarded to you from our Internet search indicates that if you go to 2500 RPM for 15 seconds and the vacuum drops, and then does not rebound instantly when you retard the throttle to idle; it is a good indication of a restricted exhaust. The guide does not specify if the engine should be under load or not, and I don’t recall whether or not your 10 second running time is in neutral or under load, but I took the liberty of calling a retired Universal engineer with whom I have maintained contact and he speculates that if you don’t get the classic symptoms of a blocked exhaust in neutral that you should try the check under load which might show up as a more dramatic drop in vacuum during the latter part of your 10 second running time.

    Don"
    __________________________________________________ ____________

    Finally, since my vacuum pressure drop seems to be normal, why does my engine still bog down after 12 seconds of full throttle in forward gear?

    I'm going to loosen the packing gland and see if that helps.

    -Rick
    Rick Powers
    Palo Alto, CA
    1976 Catalina 27
  • Don Moyer
    • Oct 2004
    • 2806

    #2
    Rick,

    Two things:

    1) Since your values were so close to the inches of Hg values reported by Universal, I'm assuming yours are also in inches of Hg (not mm as you indicate).

    2) If I understand the instructions that I sent to you from the Auto Industry printout, if you have a restricted exhaust system, the vacuum should drop after 15 seconds at 2500 RPM and not recover when you pull the throttle back to idle. Here is the relevant Auto Industry guidance again:

    "Low vacuum also can be an immediate clue to a plugged exhaust. To check further, run the engine at about 2500 rpm for about 15 seconds. If vacuum drops during this period and does not increase when you close the throttle, you're almost certainly looking at a restricted exhaust."

    In your case, I was expecting your vacuum (whatever value it was initially at 2500 RPM) to drop noticeably just prior to the engine loosing power (or perhaps just as it was loosing power) at around 10 seconds. I think more importantly, I was expecting you to report that the vacuum didn't immediately recover to some much higher value as you returned the throttle to idle.

    I'm not sure this test should be conducted in neutral or under load, so I suggest you run it both ways.

    Don

    Comment

    • Rick_Powers
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2008
      • 125

      #3
      Further info

      Hi Don (and all),

      1) Yes, the guage is in inches of Hg, not millimeters. My metric mistake.

      2) The vacuum stays at ~5 inches Hg as the engine bogs down. No change. When I switch back to idle, it goes back to 15 quickly.

      3) I loosened the packing gland to a moderate drip and repeated the tests. Same results.

      I am stumped!

      Any further input would be much appreciated!

      -Rick
      Rick Powers
      Palo Alto, CA
      1976 Catalina 27

      Comment

      • Don Moyer
        • Oct 2004
        • 2806

        #4
        Hang in there! It's at times like this when we have to remind ourselves that we are the superior species on the planet and more than able to rise above the simple antics of mere machines.

        I forget who pointed out earlier in this thread (or maybe it was another thread), but it was correctly stated that these scenarios always turn out to be that we simply missed some small thing in our observations and/or our analysis of those observations. The most productive place to start is usually to reexamine what may have changed since the time the engine last ran OK.

        Don

        Comment

        • msauntry
          • May 2008
          • 506

          #5
          Would this be a stuck carb float valve?
          I think if it is stuck a bit, it would drain the carb bowl quickly at full throttle since it couldn't replace it fast enough, but at lower settings it is still able to keep up.

          That could account for your 12 seconds of full thrust as the carb bowl is emptied.

          Have you disassembled the carb yet?

          Comment

          • Rick_Powers
            Senior Member
            • Dec 2008
            • 125

            #6
            Float Valve

            I haven't disassembled the carb yet, but, at Don's wise suggestion, I removed the float tank drain plug, drained the gas, then cranked the engine and measured the flow of gas into and out of the float tank (when the valve would be open).

            I measured 100 mls in 15 seconds, which seems to be adequate flow.

            Seems like a good test for a working float valve.

            -Rick
            Rick Powers
            Palo Alto, CA
            1976 Catalina 27

            Comment

            • lat 64
              Afourian MVP
              • Oct 2008
              • 1964

              #7
              My wacky ideas

              This thread is what forums are all about.

              I'm studying the conversation about vacuum carefully so I can use this information in the future.

              But for now I have some wacky ideas.

              Is there a way for you to check (engine off) that the reversing gear is not binding somehow when you put it in forward? Maybe it slips for a few seconds and then the band gets hot and grips the gear drum and starts to lock up. I know this far fetched.

              The spark is weak and cannot ignite the mixture at high loads.

              Something is wrong in the spark advance. This does not make sense to me but, you never know.

              High speed (main jet)fuel orifice is clogged.

              Good luck, sorry if this is too far off the scent,

              Russ
              sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1

              "Since when is napping doing nothing?"

              Comment

              • Rick_Powers
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2008
                • 125

                #8
                Tranny idea

                Hi Russ,

                Thanks for helping noodle on this one.

                Regarding the reversing gear band causing forward gear friction, it seems to be adjusted correctly because I have a fairly large neutral sweet spot between forward and reverse. It's easy to obtain neutral just by feel.

                With that being the case, would I want to loosen it further?

                -Rick
                Rick Powers
                Palo Alto, CA
                1976 Catalina 27

                Comment

                • lat 64
                  Afourian MVP
                  • Oct 2008
                  • 1964

                  #9
                  wacky feedback

                  Rick,
                  I was just grasping at straws with the tranny idea. It sounds like you have that pretty well checked out.

                  This is starting to take on a philosophical twist.
                  I imagine a circuit of some kind either electrical, fuel, oil, vacuum or exhaust that is intermittently plugged (in the case of electrical, open or grounded) by something at high-load/high-power setting but not at low-load/low-power setting.
                  This tells me there is a feedback from high-load to affect the tune of the engine.

                  One load-type feedback is something gets too tight after a while.
                  You approached this right at the start with the packing gland idea, and my idea was the reversing gear.

                  Fuel feedback is the float bowl getting dry and starving the engine after a few seconds. or a loose piece of dirt closes off the main jet at only high load. I think you checked all that fuel stuff.

                  exhaust feedback is something that flops in place to obstruct flow only at high-load setting. excess water in water lift , or rust or carbon chunks loose maybe. and then it flops out of the way at low power again.

                  oil feedback: oil pressure drops off at high load and a faulty oil-pressure kill switch starts to bleed off voltage to coil. This is a crazy idea.

                  Electrical feedback: someone mentioned distributor flyweights. Maybe the spark curve is erratic from sticking flyweights or failing condeser or coil that only makes weak spark.

                  Vacuum feedback: The Vadim restricor comes to mind.
                  A PCV valve has a variable rate of flow to prevent too much air into the manifold. A PCV valve that is not closing at higher volume might let more air into the manifold at high power setting and lean out the fuel mixture.

                  Last idea: An octopus has made a home in your sea chest and then got sucked down to the muffler and now haunts you at ever high-power/high-load setting(see Exhaust feedback) An octopus actually did that in my brothers boat and plugged up the heat exchanger line causing overheating.
                  You just never know.

                  Cheers,
                  Russ
                  sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1

                  "Since when is napping doing nothing?"

                  Comment

                  • Rick_Powers
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2008
                    • 125

                    #10
                    Tachometer

                    OK,

                    I buckled under pressure today and bought a new tachometer at West Marine.

                    Knowing how many revs I'm really getting may help to get to the bottom of this issue.

                    Question: Does the coil send wire attach to the positive or negative terminal of the coil?

                    Thanks!

                    -Rick
                    Rick Powers
                    Palo Alto, CA
                    1976 Catalina 27

                    Comment

                    • Don Moyer
                      • Oct 2004
                      • 2806

                      #11
                      Rick,

                      I see no point in backing off on the reverse adjustment as long as you have a comfortably large neutral zone.

                      Don

                      Comment

                      • Don Moyer
                        • Oct 2004
                        • 2806

                        #12
                        Rick,

                        The sending leads for the tachometers listed on our catalog connect to the negative of the coil, but you should follow the instructions that came with your tachometer from West Marine.

                        One more thought as your troubleshooting is becoming more frustrating: It sometimes helps to define the exact symptoms in more detail. For example, we all seem to be envisioning your engine experiencing a "soft" shutdown, which is why we all keep coming back to fuel starvation. If it turns out that your shutdowns are more abrupt as though someone inadvertently turned off the ignition switch, we would be more inclined to go down the road to an ignition issue. Also, I don't recall you mentioning whether or not you can restart the engine immediately after it shuts down.

                        Don

                        Comment

                        • Rick_Powers
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2008
                          • 125

                          #13
                          Symptoms Detail

                          Hi Don,

                          It is a soft reduction to half thrust. It never dies, just slows up.

                          After resting a few seconds, it can go right back to full thrust, then again has a soft reduction to half thrust.

                          After I install the tachometer, I can give more precise data.

                          For example, maybe it will hold thrust at 2000 rpm, but does not like to run under load at 3000 rpm.

                          I will report back soon!

                          (and thanks everybody for all the good advice) (especially Don!)

                          -Rick
                          Rick Powers
                          Palo Alto, CA
                          1976 Catalina 27

                          Comment

                          • msauntry
                            • May 2008
                            • 506

                            #14
                            "I measured 100 mls in 15 seconds, which seems to be adequate flow."

                            Sort of ...but not quite. That might still be the flow result of a stuck valve. I don't know what the full flow rate is, but what if full flow is 200 mls in 15 seconds?

                            I hate to be a nag, but I still think opening up the carbs would be time well spent at this point. You might be able to reuse the carb gasket, so you wouldn't need to buy anything just to clean it out.

                            Comment

                            • Dromo
                              Senior Member
                              • Mar 2008
                              • 194

                              #15
                              Another long shot, did you check the flame arrestor screen for Carb. intake air flow? Try running without it.
                              Is your throttle cable slipping when you put it in gear ? Check the linkage at the shifter,the throttle and reversing gear cables, maybe something came loose.
                              Rick

                              Comment

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