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  #1   IP: 75.104.65.205
Old 01-13-2018, 12:50 PM
Flyingmike Flyingmike is offline
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No more A4

Well folks I bought a Beneteau First 345, it was a friends boat that was too good of a deal to pass up so I found a buyer for my Catalina 30. The Beneteau has a Volvo Penta 2003 (3 cylinder, 28hp, 490 hours). I have never worked on a diesel before but I understand the general concept of how the engine works. The engine seems to run like a top. Does anyone know of a forum like this for Volvo Diesel engines? And secondly I have a TON of spare A4 parts. I bought a spare late model A4 that I planned to rebuild but found the block was cracked, everything else seems good. I’ll sell and ship any part for cheep. I’ll have anything tested or checked at a local shop before shipping if you want. Anything left over I’ll take to recycling.
Things I have:
carb, just rebuilt
2 35amp Alt. Checked good at the shop.
Distributor with electronic ignition.
Starter
Flywheel wheel and cover
Accessory drive
Crank and cam
Pistons and rods
Reversing gear and all hardwear for it.
Early model head
All offers considered.

And a big thanks for all the help I have received from this forum in getting my old A4 running strong.

Last edited by Flyingmike; 01-16-2018 at 11:24 AM.
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  #2   IP: 71.178.91.222
Old 01-13-2018, 08:40 PM
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sastanley sastanley is offline
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Mike, not a bad upgrade. It will be a little smellier and noisier, but there are trade-offs in everything. I long for a few more feet on the waterline to get to places quicker all the time.
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  #3   IP: 137.103.82.194
Old 01-14-2018, 09:40 AM
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Volvo diesels are great until you need parts. Not sure if there is a good forum for them, but they are famous for expensive parts
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  #4   IP: 172.250.158.136
Old 01-16-2018, 11:20 AM
Flyingmike Flyingmike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
I long for a few more feet on the waterline to get to places quicker all the time.
The first time I took her out we were cruising at 6.8 with just the Genoa in about 10knt breeze. Took her to Catalina and got 7.4 with a light breeze right on the beam.
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  #5   IP: 172.250.158.136
Old 01-16-2018, 11:22 AM
Flyingmike Flyingmike is offline
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Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
Volvo diesels are great until you need parts. Not sure if there is a good forum for them, but they are famous for expensive parts
Thanks. With only 490 hours on the engine I hope I won’t need spare parts for a long time. As of now the engine starts right up and runs solid.
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  #6   IP: 104.129.198.109
Old 05-02-2018, 04:22 PM
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FancyDancer FancyDancer is offline
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Crank and Carb

Hello Flyingmike,

My name is Spencer.

Is the Crank and Carb still available? If so I would love to talk.
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  #7   IP: 173.68.156.168
Old 05-03-2018, 10:24 PM
Peter Betulia Peter Betulia is offline
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Hi Flying Mike, I am new to this forum. I just got a 61' Rhodes Swiftsure and it has an older Atomic Four in it. I've read and listened to so many opinions about this engine my head is spinning. One marina suggest a Yanmar gas transplant....costly but am told reliable and no fiddiling. I can fiddle but I have a few motors in my life to take care of! I'm interested in your electronic distributor if it will fit this engine. I'm not sure how to contact you on this very interesting and inspiring forum.
Cheers Peter
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:18 AM
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  #8   IP: 137.200.32.38
Old 05-04-2018, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Betulia View Post
Hi Flying Mike, I am new to this forum. I just got a 61' Rhodes Swiftsure and it has an older Atomic Four in it. I've read and listened to so many opinions about this engine my head is spinning. One marina suggest a Yanmar gas transplant....costly but am told reliable and no fiddiling. I can fiddle but I have a few motors in my life to take care of! I'm interested in your electronic distributor if it will fit this engine. I'm not sure how to contact you on this very interesting and inspiring forum.
Cheers Peter
Nearly 100% of yards and marine engine shops will 100% of the time suggest a diesel engine if you ask them to so much as do an oil change on an Atomic 4
A new diesel is a better engine. The torque curve is better for moving sailboats, they use less fuel per mile, the fuel they do use is not ethanol contaminated, and you benefit from many decades of engine building advances.
That said - the cost involved is huge and you will NEVER earn this back in either saved fuel or improved resale value. Even a brand spanking new Moyer replacement is going to be less than half what a diesel conversion costs.

Could we start by asking why you want electronic ignition and how the engine runs now?
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  #9   IP: 108.45.44.91
Old 05-04-2018, 10:14 AM
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edwardc edwardc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Betulia View Post
... I just got a 61' Rhodes Swiftsure and it has an older Atomic Four in it. ...
A 61 ft sailboat with an A4 !!??

I assume that was supposed to be '61.

Anyway, welcome to the forum Peter. You'll find the A4 a simple, reliable little beast that's no more complicated than a flathead lawnmower engine (x 4).

And this forum is the place for friendly support and parts.
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  #10   IP: 173.68.156.168
Old 05-04-2018, 09:04 PM
Peter Betulia Peter Betulia is offline
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Red face Peter B

Sorry about the mix up...it is a 1961 33' Rhodes and it has not,as of today grown to 61 feet! The owner passed away and the boat sat for about 5 years at a dock by his home.From the looks of it he tried to keep her up until he was no longer physicaly able. None of the wires or terminals were corroded. They were sprayed with foging oil. The block was not a mess of flaking paint. All nuts and bolts were not over torqued. An in line fuel valve was shut as were the seawater intake and exhaust throughhulls. There were spares for the ignition. I made the assumtion he tried his best. This is where I'm at with the engine. I shot some marvel mystery oil in the cyclinders and left it for a few days. At first I could only get the engine to turn over by bypassing the ignition switch and jumping it at the starter seloniod. Today I located a cut out switch that now alowed power to reach the starter through the ignition. The engine now turns over with the key and builds nice oil pressure. the blower also works. I am getting power to the coil but no spark at plug tip. I am not getting spark from coil wire to ground (if I use the engine block) I think the problem lies somewhere in the distr cap at the points. I can find no clear diagram showing the order of the screw,washers and insulaton washers that pass through the body of the distibutor....so don't know if it is set up correctly. Is there a diagrahm around? on the instrument pannel there is a round screw cap and when I removed it found 2 small copper contact plates backed by springs. something screws into it. I did not connect these and try the ignition. Is this a saftey device? My interest in the distro with the electronic ignition is that it might be less troublesome. I know there are more modern engines that can be swapped but its a very expensive proposition..... I can't in good conscience just move on without giving good effort to getting this one to run..Thanks for the welcome. Cheers!
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  #11   IP: 155.186.126.158
Old 05-05-2018, 10:40 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Exclamation One thing at a time

Peter, it is time to start a logical diagnosis and that means one system function at a time within that system. I suggest you start with the ignition.

My suggestion would be to start by checking the coil for power at the positive wire post. Once confirmed good we'll move on or if bad we perform a "hot wire" set up. Are you familiar with "hot wiring"?

RE you statement of a modernizing upgrade will provide great expense lots of time and you will still need to learn the diesel. The best upgrade to the A-4 is the EI and is not a bad place to start.

Once we get spark we will make sure the timing is close.

If you need to work on the distributor "out of the engine" due to access that would be a good time to do the upgrade if you want to spend the bucks. Why do it twice. If the distributor has reasonable access again your choice.

Points are just a switch for the ignition and an EI just performs the same switching function.

Once spark and timing are confirmed to be close it is time to see if it will lite the beastie and take a good look at the fuel system.

Any idea as to weather the engine was shut down running or has it been tinkered with to no avail. A bit of the engines recent history will help the guys diagnose.

Dave Neptune
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  #12   IP: 173.68.156.168
Old 05-06-2018, 08:18 AM
Peter Betulia Peter Betulia is offline
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Smile Peter B

Dave, Sorry if I was confusing in my explanation. We have been taking logical steps towards getting a spark. To answer some questions in previous post....I was told the engine was running before laying the boat up. I implied that the motor looked as if the PO had taken care of it. But it has been laying about for 5 years untouched. We are getting juice to the possitive side of the coil. If you mean by hot wire... a wire from pos battery terminal directly to possitive side of the coil we have tried this. still no spark from coil to ground.
I also mentioned that switch in dash. It might have nothing to do with the ignition side of the system but I am not sure. Possibly a seperate starter button? I have found a basic wiring diagram on the Moyer site that will be helpful next time out.
I will eventually change to electronic ignition and then tackel the fuel system. So its back to the boat this week! Thanks
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  #13   IP: 155.186.126.158
Old 05-06-2018, 10:36 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Peter, how are you checking for spark? By turning the engine over or by grounding the "-"(neg) terminal to ground?

If you get to the distributor don't turn it or remove it yet. Do pop the cap of and remove the rotor. Then you can operate the points to check spark and at the same time be sure the C-advance is working. Don't disturb the plug wires and labeling them if you are not proficient with the ignition cycle. You want to see a "snappy blue" spark. If the spark is weak and yellow it will need to be addressed.

When checking the coil for spark be sure to disconnect the power when not testing so you don't "fry" the coil.

If the points and condenser are weak producing a pale spark and poor "dwell" (the effective gap due to cam wear) it might be time to do the conversion and be done with it.


Don't remove the distributor until TDC for #1 is marked and it probably will not be at the factory setting ~~DON"T ASSUME IT IS RIGHT until verified. We will give you directions to make it easy if you don't know how.

Dave Neptune
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