#1
IP: 38.102.24.196
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New Product - Flame arrestor knurled retaining screw - late model
Flame arrestor knurled retaining screw - late model
This retaining screw makes it possible to remove and replace a late model flame arrestor without the use of a screwdriver for engine installations where access is a problem. Thanks to Baltimore Sailor for the idea. Don Last edited by Administrator; 11-20-2008 at 03:02 PM. |
#2
IP: 66.245.65.227
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What to remove when fogging
The neat thumb screw for the flame arrester prompted me to wonder something.
When fogging, do you just remove the flame arrester screen to spray the fogging oil, or do you remove the whole housing to spray right into the carburetor. In the second case the thumb screw would come in handy. I have always just removed the screen. Mary Last edited by HOTFLASH; 11-24-2008 at 09:00 AM. Reason: spelling |
#3
IP: 206.230.48.34
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I remove the whole flame arrestor because I squirt the aerosolized fogging oil as far into the throat of the carb as I can. There's no point in letting it pool in the pipe.
(Yes, I bought the thumbscrew on Friday. One less tool to carry (ie, drop) while diving into the lazarette every fall.) |
#4
IP: 50.168.135.40
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"Fogging" the carburetor??
What is "fogging" the carb? (Love this forum! Happy new year everyone!)
__________________
Barbara L. Hickson Flight Risk C&C 33-1 Chas., SC |
#5
IP: 107.0.6.242
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Fogging oil is used to prepare an engine for long term storage, injected into the carb to coat the inner parts of the engine to protect from moisture and corrosion.
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#6
IP: 50.197.232.33
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Can someone provide a step by step on fogging? Will buy thumb screw... Thanks.
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#7
IP: 107.0.6.242
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Fogging is a very simple procedure by itself, but is usually combined with other steps in putting an engine to bed. Oil in an aerosol can is introduced into the carb while the engine is running and in due course the engine dies from oil choking and fuel starvation. Typically the plugs are then pulled and some MM oil poured into the cylinders. The effect of all this is to leave the internal parts with a thin coat of protection. I like to do an oil change while putting an engine away. OMC markets a "fogging" oil for the purpose.
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#8
IP: 12.172.250.194
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I've never been able to actually stall an A4 with aerosol fogging oil, although of course it stumbles and smokes like a chimney. So for me, fogging the engine has involved one person upside-down in the lazarette manning the spray into the carb with the flame arrestor removed (thus realizing the convenience of the Moyer thumbscrew), and another person introducing antifreeze throughout the raw-water-cooled engine via a hose connected to the raw water strainer. The fog is sprayed continuously while the antifreeze is being sucked in, which takes about 30 seconds, at which point the engine has to be shut off via the key. Then we change the oil (while it's still warm) and squirt MMO into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. That's pretty much my entire engine winterization program. I also treat the fuel with Sta-Bil, but I put that into the tank in September before the last few sails so it is well-circulated through the engine by the time the boat comes out.
In the spring, the engine consistently starts very easily, smokes for about 20 seconds as the fogging oil burns off, and is then good to go. |
#9
IP: 206.125.176.3
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This year, I used spray SeaFoam, and was able to stall the motor. (I also use Seafoam in all my other small engines.)
tenders, like you, I got the engine running, switched the intake over to the antifreeze and started squirting..I controlled the squirts while the antifreeze was working its way thru, and then when I got close to the end of the gallon of pink stiff, I continuously sprayed until the engine coughed & died. The knurled knob sure would make my job easier..one less tool needed!
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#10
IP: 12.172.250.194
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I don't think SeaFoam is the same as fogging oil - at least, the stuff in the SeaFoam can is not like fogging oil. SeaFoam is, to my understanding, a solvent designed to clean and remove fuel deposits. It's mostly naptha, and it evaporates. Fogging oil is more like engine oil and is supposed to stick around.
I wonder if shutting down with a solvent is very good for the rings. I have used SeaFoam to winterize small engines like snow throwers and power washers because I use them irregularly, and want to displace as much of the fuel from the carb as possible when they might be laid up for a year. That is not my objective with the A4, as the carb is not as finicky as the tiny things on 5hp small engines. Or is aerosol SeaFoam different from canned SeaFoam? |
#11
IP: 206.125.176.3
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tenders, I dunno...since I don't have "fogging oil", I just used Seafoam..I dunno if it is any different.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#12
IP: 73.55.66.163
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I use a pump oil can filled with MMO. Some engines will I will stall, some I wont.
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