#1
IP: 108.212.239.157
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Cylinder walls
I purchased a second A4 engine and want to get it running. There is serious rusting on the block surface inboard the starter motor and accessory drive. As mentioned by Neil in a recent post, I also am amazed an owner's reluctance to remove the starter motor, or any other part to get at the block for maintenance.
After some "tapping" with a screwdriver I think the block casting has sufficient metal remaining to go forward with this project. I am not in a hurry with this engine as I was with the A4 I pulled out of the sailboat. The second pic shows the cylinder cooling chamber and is of more concern to me. The chamber was full of solids. How were they cooled? In this visible and accessible side I could "dig" and vacuum the mixture of ? and iron oxide chunks. The cylinders tap/sound secure. How do I clean out the port side of the cylinders? Acid? I don't know how much more attack the walls can take. I will enjoy bringing this engine back but I don't want to put more time in a loser. Howard
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S/V Swimmer Bristol 27 |
#2
IP: 24.152.131.153
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I also picked up a spare engine last summer. When I opened up the sideplate (7 broken bolts) it was caked solid, couldn't tell there was a void in there at all and about the consistency of brick mortar. The tool that has worked very well for me is a needle scaler, made quick work of the mess. Proceed carefully though, this is like archaeology field work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ler-96997.html I got the compact model, $30 and played a 25% off coupon. Turned out the caked stuff was on the sideplate side of the water jacket. Once I got through it the rest was easy. I cleared it all the way to the drain holes. Wait till you try to remove the head. The thermostat housing studs were the hanging point. A Sawzall is our friend.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 02-02-2014 at 12:56 PM. |
#3
IP: 107.0.6.242
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Howard - Your approach to that engine should be proportional to how long you aim to keep it and how far from home you might take it. Note the cavities between #2 and #3, the PMP (point of maximum punishment). If I owned that engine I would strip it to the block and send it to a good machine shop to be re-sleeved. You might even be able to refit the pistons to the new sleeves. FWIW
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#4
IP: 174.65.48.149
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Get the head off and all the studs first. And the accessory drive and the 2 drain plugs.
There are "clean out" holes in the top of the block that give you access to the port side of the water jacket, and the rest of the water jacket. As dry as that stuff is you might only need to loosen it with a screw driver that's just long enough to reach the bottom of the water jacket. The water jacket bottoms out at the drain holes on the starboard side, same depth throughout the water jacket. What I just did yesterday was to turn the engine on it's side so the water jacket side access is facing down. With the screw driver I worked the shavings towards the side plate access for easy removal with shop vac, or let it fall to the floor. Use every clean out hole and stud hole that you can. I also flipped the engine upside down (head down) and tapped with a hammer to get some of the loose stuff out through the clean out and stud holes. I also used the shop vac blower to blast some of the stuff out. It's messy but it works. I didn't get too aggressive scrapping what's not loose. Acid flush after engine is all back together. I made a video of the coolant flow through the engine which might help. [YOUTUBE]FCmvZTbjVlo[/YOUTUBE]
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"Jim" S/V "Ahoi" 1967 Islander 29 Harbor Island, San Diego 2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date |
#5
IP: 206.125.176.5
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As far as the outside, I think it looks great. I have taken an entire layer of metal off my block near the side plate and under the starter. Mine has corroded so much that the flat "boss" where the aft drain block goes, is no longer there..
And that is on the motor that is in the boat.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#6
IP: 108.212.239.157
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I hear you. First of all, I ordered the needle machine. Also, Neil's "wait till you try to take the oil pan off" (paraphrased) is still ringing in my ears. Where the bolts come up through the block is obliterated.
As I do the needle deal I will get a better idea of the integrity of the cyl walls. At that time a re-sleeving may be in order. Sawsall. I have the head off and the pistons and valves are in really good condition. The engine turns freely. This engine is not as high a priority as he first one I did. Instead of regulating it to a shop corner I may turn it into a snowthrower. An A4 snowthrower! Hah. Howard
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S/V Swimmer Bristol 27 |
#7
IP: 12.219.49.130
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With the snow we are having this year, it sounds good to me!
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#8
IP: 108.202.192.188
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S/V Swimmer Bristol 27 |
#9
IP: 216.115.121.240
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blow engine to pass
Quote:
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#10
IP: 71.178.87.84
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I feel bad for that poor truck!
You guys have way too much time on your hands up there...Winter is way too long for you Canadians, eh?
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
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