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  #1   IP: 184.32.93.98
Old 06-05-2011, 09:45 PM
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KeysCatalina KeysCatalina is offline
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Just bought a 78' C27 with Atomic 4

Hello,
I am new to your forum and just bought a 78' C27. So far after a week of reading on here...I can say that finding this forum right away was probably the best thing that could have happened after buying this boat. You have a really nice (updated and current) forum going here and I am glad I found it.

Initial details:
1978 C27, Hull is in decent shape (this is my third boat but first aux sail).
Owner cleaned the bottom for me before sale (boat is docked).
I jumped in before paying and examined the hull, keel, prop, shaft, strut and rudder, they seem ok.
The motor "looks" good but is missing the carb and the PO says he never tried to start it (just lived on it for a couple years at the dock).

After some reading on here im thinking I should do the following:
-Test Compression
-Install permanent oil change kit and change oil.
-Procure carb and flame arrestor
-New plugs
-check fuel tank/lines, remove old fuel (if any) and add new.
<attempt to start>
-Change Impeller/shaft and seals (found a new set stashed in the galley)
-Clean manifold with acid and water jacket for debris/coral.
-Upgrade to electric fuel pump (currently "old looking" mechanical type)
...

As this is my 3rd boat I am familiar with the whole spending money thing so that being said im hoping this motor turns out to not require a rebuild etc. I bought it mainly to live on 66% of my time. However it did come with a working main sail/rigging and id like to get it running for the least amount of money and then start replacing parts each month thereafter as i can comfortably afford it. I know this plan sounds too good to be true because it probably is but I will pray about it and God willing it wont turn into a nightmare.

As for you guys I would love to hear from you all! You all seem VERY knowledgeable about this stuff so am I on the right track?

kris
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  #2   IP: 173.54.181.116
Old 06-06-2011, 10:15 AM
rheaton rheaton is offline
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You might want to get the Moyer manual.
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  #3   IP: 173.166.26.245
Old 06-06-2011, 10:32 AM
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hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
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Talking

Second the motion on getting that Moyer Manual from the online catalogue on this site. It is essential. If the engine has no carb and the PO never started the engine you are dealing with an unknown quantity. You should see if the engine will turn over (not seized). If you can turn it over, sigh of relief # 1 - now drain the oil and replace with new 30w detergent oil. If the electric starter is working you can now do a compression test. Look for numbers between 90 and 125 psi. If you have that, sigh of relief #2. Somewhere along the line take pix of your engine (we love pictures), determine if it is early or late. We love projects here and Welcome! to the group.
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  #4   IP: 24.152.131.220
Old 06-06-2011, 10:39 AM
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I'd add an aggressive fuel tank clean out to your list too, beyond replacing fuel. Whatever is in there has to be nasty and has likely left a residue. I don't think you want to pump it through your pump and new carburetor.
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  #5   IP: 38.98.0.2
Old 06-06-2011, 11:01 AM
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ILikeRust ILikeRust is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rheaton View Post
You might want to get the Moyer manual.
Here, let me fix that for you:

You want to get the Moyer manual.

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  #6   IP: 72.45.54.12
Old 06-06-2011, 11:50 AM
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Call Ken at 610-421-4436 and order the Moyer Manual. Tell Ken what you've told us. He might make a few suggestions of where to start. Heed his advice. Ken is superbly responsive to orders. If you call today, he will get the manual shipped today. When the manual arrives, read it from cover to cover. Every page. By then, you will have a wonderful understanding of these powerplants and what it's trying to tell you.

If the engine hasn't been run in a few years, I would urge a slow and systematic approach to bringing her back to life. There is an extraordinary wealth of knowledge on this forum and I have returned my A-4 (a victim of a 2-year hiatus on the hard) to a sweet-running machine largely from their adivce and searching this forum for specific issues.

I guess I would want to make sure the block is healthy before buying any parts for it. If pinholes leaks or corrosion have taken root for several years, you might wish to consider another approach than trying to get this motor running. If the engine turns over with good compression/no water intrusion, then start to worry about the carb, fuel pump, oil filter, etc.

Best of luck to you!
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  #7   IP: 76.244.163.213
Old 06-07-2011, 02:51 AM
anglosax anglosax is offline
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previous owners???

What everyone else said .... and then some!
Previous owners always have half a story about their boats... If the carbs missing you can bet he got water in it by overcranking with the intake open - and if so, there was/is water in No 4 cylinder - before doing anything check that you can crank the engine over preferably by hand - if not youre about to find out way more about an A4 than you ever wanted to !!!good luck
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  #8   IP: 184.32.248.139
Old 06-07-2011, 11:04 AM
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Thanks for the replies thus far!
The manual is at the top of the list now, there is a hand crank that I was able to use to rotate the motor, so its not seized, it did however seem way to easy to rotate compared to a car? (especially with plugs installed) Have to wait and see what the compression numbers are like. Im hoping that maybe it was a fuel problem like ethanol gum and they took the carb to get rebuilt or find a new one and never followed thru with it.

I spent another 3 hours last night, this time cleaning the forward berth.
Now just have the area near the toilet left, which ironically, isnt very dirty compared to how moldy the rest of the boat was.

and...
Florida let me register as an antique so its $3 a year instead of $149+ for reg tax! Sweet!
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  #9   IP: 38.98.0.2
Old 06-07-2011, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeysCatalina View Post
it did however seem way to easy to rotate compared to a car?
Keep in mind that not only is it a small engine (only about 1 liter displacement), it's also relatively low compression ratio (like 6.3:1).
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  #10   IP: 99.41.58.138
Old 06-07-2011, 02:52 PM
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Kris,
It would be quite normal in a situation like this for some of the valves to be stuck in the open position. Both the valves and valve guides are steel so even a minor amount of rust will cause this problem. Pouring a reasonable amount of Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder and allowing it to soak in will many times free up the valves eliminating the need for head removal. Don't be surprised if at least some of your initial compression readings are zero.
Tom
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  #11   IP: 206.125.176.3
Old 06-07-2011, 03:44 PM
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sastanley sastanley is online now
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Thumbs up sweet. another A-4 saved!

KC,

Welcome to the group. I did the same thing..spent the first week just cleaning the mold out of the boat. One thing that helps is the solar powered fans. My boat did not have one and was moldy again after the first winter..(mid-Atlantic) - no mold this winter with the fan..it just keeps the air moving. Also given the fact I was working on the boat every weekend all winter probably helped keep it aired out.

All advice here is good...+1 on everything.

Marvel Mystery Oil is available at most auto parts stores & Walmart. I bought a $7 squirt style oil can with a flexible spout for squirting MMO in the spark plug holes..

Since you are busy cleaning, here are some things you can do to the motor in the meantime... No need to rush on starting it..just like painting, all the work is in the prep, and then when you are ready she'll start right up. Squirt some MMO in the plug holes every few days and turn the engine over by hand..go ahead and replace the oil (a small hand pump in the dipstick hole will work just fine, but a little messy, before you spend money on the change kit.)

So, fresh oil, MMO in the cylinders to free up the valves & rings & turn over with the hand crank..After a week, use the starter and get some compression readings.

CAUTION! - Even though anglosax already mentioned it, it bears repeating. Whenever you are working on the motor and cranking it over, ALWAYS close the raw water intake thru-hull. It is VERY easy to fill up the muffler and back fill seawater into the #4 cylinder & crankcase. I make it habit to leave mine closed until the engine is running. Don't forget this...burn it into your brain.

Hanley - since it is a '78 C-27 I suspect it is a late model, but when KC shows us some pics we can confirm. Catalina apparently stockpiled quite a few A-4's in the late 70's and continued to install them up until about 1982, when they finally went 100% noisy diesel only.
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Last edited by sastanley; 06-07-2011 at 03:47 PM.
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  #12   IP: 76.244.163.213
Old 06-07-2011, 10:54 PM
anglosax anglosax is offline
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easy turn over ??

Yes your valves will be stuck open - I just did this job and 2 out of 4 came free with carb cleaner down the plug hole, numbers 3 & 4 were firmly stuck and required the head to come off - good job really as all the waterways were fouled and the head was really gunky [ A4 technical term] - You may be in for the same
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