reseal Manifold mounting bolts

[hinters]

Hi all
I have been having problems with coolant loss and won't bore
you with my attempts to solve but it appears that the manifold stud
by the No. 1 cylinder was leaking into the flame arrester and being
sucked through the carb and burned. The result was a seriously fouled
carb and the enging eventually refused to start.
My question is what do I use to reseal the manifold studs? I am
not sure if Locktite will do the job or plumbers' putty or what?
Anybody have some experience with this?
Thanks
Pat
Ericson 35-II
Lions' Den

[rigspelt]

A while ago I did a forum search on "manifold" and "Don Moyer" and found these:

Don Moyer wrote: "Each of the manifold stud holes enter the cooling jacket and if the lower threads of the stud do not seal well, engine coolant will be drawn into the nearest intake port" in thread http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1327. He attached a PDF describing their stud repair kit installation instructions.

Don Moyer: "There's no need to be leery of using Locktite. If you ever do have to remove them, it won't take very much heat. In fact, if the studs feel rather loose in the holes, I recommend going directly to JB Weld. In my opinion, it's more important to insure that you'll never have to remove these studs again than it is to worry about facilitating their removal. Regarding your question about someone breaking through the end of the two stud holes in the past, I must not have been clear in our earlier discussion. All three of the manifold stud holes normally enter into the water jacket, so it's very common for the ends of the studs to be missing a few threads due to being corroded away. We sometimes find them with only 2 threads left."

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172

A bit more on manifold studs:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2211

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=778

[Dave Neptune]

Sealing studs

Pat, I to have an E-35MkII with the A-4. The locktite works well however I am leary of using JB weld on studs. It isn't that they would be a little more work to remove because it isn't reall the difficult yo remove the JB weld with a little heat. I have seen this happen when using JB weld, the sdtuds were cleaned and so were the threads and the studs were installed. However when torquing the nuts down the studs were pulled in the threade holes and cracked the RIGID JB weld and the studs began to leak again. I have als seen them installed before the JB set and a bit ran out and the manifold was an absolute PIA to remove as the manifold was JB welded to the block.

I have never had a stud leak when put together with PERMATEX # 2 or #3. It remains plyable during instalation and sticks to comprimised metal very well indeed. Sorry Don Also using the Av. grade on the gasket will just about guarentee that nothing will get into the port without getting through the carb and manifold first.

My 2 cents.

Dave Neptune

[hinters]

sealing studs

Thanks to both of you!
I get it now! I think I will use the permatex solution
since I have some and will also use it on the gasket.
(it was installed dry before)
I will let you know how this works out as soon as I
can git-r-done.
Cheers
Pat
Ericson 35-II
Lions' Den

[rigspelt]

My notes indicate this about the gasket:

(Don): "The manifold gasket can be installed facing in or out (the two sides are different). In cases where the surface of the block and manifold are both in good condition, we like to install the gasket dry. If there is deep pitting on either surface (particularly in the surface of the block) we apply a good layer of JB Weld, then the gasket, then Permatex aviation brand between the outside of the gasket and the manifold."