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  #1   IP: 184.32.248.139
Old 06-07-2011, 11:16 AM
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Cleaning and re-painting interior

What I've done is remove all the teak and wood trim pieces and then scrubbed with bleach based mildew cleaner all the way to the upper edge where the white interior liner meets the deck and all the way down to the bilge.
I started with the stern, pilot berth, then mid-ship berth, companionway, galley, quarter-bunk and bow over the last 2 weeks. Later today ill do the head and closet to finish the job. Ive stripped it down to the bulkheads to get to the corners and crevices where the mold hides! At some point I'll take the stove/sink and galley apart and remove them to clean the walls that have been hidden back there for a few decades.

Question: What is the best paint to use to re-paint the white interior liner, without sanding it? Its very clean now but has some fading and chips in some areas so I'm thinking now that's its clean and the trim/wood is removed I'll paint it bright white.
I am also going to sand all the teak parts and then varnish them and seal them with tung oil seal...before reinstalling but id like to avoid sanding the liner before re-painting if possible.
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  #2   IP: 69.177.115.86
Old 06-07-2011, 05:56 PM
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Well, you didn't use the magic words (Atomic 4) but it is boat related, so I'll take a stab at an answer.
My main concern is the chips. Are these due to impact, or is the original coating failing? I'd hate to see you finish the job and then have things start falling off in palm-sized pieces. If you have any doubts at this point, I'd borrow/rent a power washer and see what that does. If you do have to get into sanding, an angle grinder with 36 grit discs will take things down pretty quick - as well as cleaning up the residual molding goobers.
I wouldn't try to paint directly on the old surface. You don't want to sand, so as a minimum go with an oil base primer. This assumes you're going to use a single part finish coat - if you're going with a two-part urethane finish, you'll need an epoxy primer. This will have a better chance of sticking to the existing finish than a straight finish coat (which will stick fine to the primer).
Finish coat depends on the 'look' you're trying to get. Gloss white is OK, but kinda sterile. I don't recommend it. Herreshoff did his interiors in semi-gloss white, saving the gloss for the trim. How about an off-white semi-gloss or even an egg shell?
As to the teak trim, you say varnish then seal with tung oil. Hunh? My technique for the interior trim is to bring it home, sand it, seal it with 2 part epoxy (thin with stove alcohol) (might take two coats to get rid of the pores), then finish with varnish - no stinkin tongue oil (you'll be doing it forever). You'll go through a bit of sandpaper and elbow grease with the epoxy sealer. Seal all sides, varnish what shows. Varnish can be your choice of gloss, semigloss, or satin.
How does that sound?

Al
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:04 PM
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Check out Zinzer , the primer that adheres to anything. About 10 years ago , on the advice of a professional painter , and with considerable doubt and reservation , I primed my classic 60's fake wood formica covered bulkheads with Zinzer 1-2-3. No sanding , just rubbed it down w/ acetone. A decade later , holding strong.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:13 PM
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That's why I started this thread in General Interest because I realize this is an A4 forum but i figured a Moderator would let me know if I had broken any rules.

A few hours ago i finished off cleaning the head/closet. I also removed the front bulkheads between the forward v-berth and head to get in the cracks and boy am I glad I did because there was mold in there! The only thing I didn't do was remove the main bulkhead because its attached to the chain plates and mast support. I figure ill save that for another time but that's the last place mold could hide besides the bilge and behind the galley. Anyway I removed the marine toilet (ceramic) and am considering building a standing/sitting shower stall instead of a head because that's what I really need, a full shower. The boat also came with one of those porta-potty marine toilets with the canister on the bottom and the bottle of blue juice but im planning to save that for emergency.

The chips/blemishes arent big they appear to be caused by PO or occupants that screwed something into the wall or spilled something and never wiped it up and after cleaning there is still a permanent stain there. Am I correct in assuming that the off-white liner is fiberglass similar to a normal bathroom shower stall? If it is im not opposed to sanding I would just prefer not to do it because of the dusty mess it will make and everything is so clean right now!

Thanks for the tung oil tips, thats what the PO told me to use on the teak but its not a priority right now. Ill study up on that after i get around to sanding.

Im also going to look into Zinzer, if all it takes is acetone prep that is right up my alley because im pretty good with fiberglass and gelcoat repair from working on the bayliner.

Thanks for all the replies this forum is great!
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:26 PM
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I have oiled teak on the interior of my boat. I prefer the look to varnish. You don't want to varnish AND oil. One or the other. No point in putting oil over varnish, and varnish over oil isn't a good idea.
I abhor oiled teak on the exterior-- After doing it for 2 years, and doing it over and over and over, I gave up and varnished. I fought with varnish for several years then changed to Cetol. I'll never oil or varnish exterior teak again-- the cetol is my favorite (natural Cetol- looks good).
On the interior I still oil- it only has to be redone every couple of years when the sun isn't baking it.
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  #6   IP: 71.231.70.209
Old 06-07-2011, 10:32 PM
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There are only two methods of adhesion that will ensure a coating will properly adhere to a substrate, Chemical cross-linking or mechanical adhesion (sanding or etching). Your chances of getting a chemical cross-link at this point with cured polyester gel coat and a paint coating available to the diy'er are slim to none. However, you don't need to get carried away sanding it to achieve the mechanical bond. Just scrub every square inch you plan on painting or priming with a red 3M Scotch Brite pad and a rich TSP/water mixture. Doing so will both clean and adequately abrade the surface. Fumes aren't bad but wear some Nitrile latex gloves. Preparation is 95% of the job. Good luck.

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  #7   IP: 184.32.248.60
Old 06-08-2011, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Millbauer View Post
There are only two methods of adhesion that will ensure a coating will properly adhere to a substrate, Chemical cross-linking or mechanical adhesion (sanding or etching). Your chances of getting a chemical cross-link at this point with cured polyester gel coat and a paint coating available to the diy'er are slim to none. However, you don't need to get carried away sanding it to achieve the mechanical bond. Just scrub every square inch you plan on painting or priming with a red 3M Scotch Brite pad and a rich TSP/water mixture. Doing so will both clean and adequately abrade the surface. Fumes aren't bad but wear some Nitrile latex gloves. Preparation is 95% of the job. Good luck.

Mark
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I looked up TSP, seems like home depot might have it. Do I have to rinse that off after all the scrubbing or will any residue aid in adhesion?
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"Therefore I say unto you, what things soever ye desire, when ye pray, believe that ye receive, and ye shall have.
And when ye stand praying, forgive, if ye have ought against any: That your Father also which is in heaven may forgive you your trespasses." Mark 11:24
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  #8   IP: 71.231.70.209
Old 06-08-2011, 10:02 PM
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Absolutely rinse with clean water. Any residue is bad and will significantly comprise adhesion. Right before painting or priming, clean and dry thoroughly with a wax and grease remover or acetone. Fun, fun!

Mark
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:05 AM
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Just keep in mind that once you paint that interior, you'll be repainting it periodically for the rest of the time you own the boat. Might just wanna work on the interior brightwork to make it "pop" thereby taking away from the minor blemishes in the plastic liner.

just my $0.02
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:10 AM
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Thumbs up

KC, +1 what Laker said...I used the exact same stuff. I am in the middle of this now with my C-30.

Oil based primer & oil based gloss exterior paint from Home Depot/Lowe's. This was recommended to me by a boat yard guy that was working at Lowe's.

I sanded the smooth spots but not the textured spots..Just a DA sander with 120 & wipe it down with acetone. I hope my holds for 10 years like Laker's.

Here are a link to my progress --> C-30 refreshing. I am doing mine in stages, so I don't have to rip the whole boat apart. Talk to Neil Dutton if you want to see how to do it properly. I am lazy, so I do as little work as possible.
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  #11   IP: 24.152.131.220
Old 06-09-2011, 07:15 PM
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Keys,

Like Shawn said, I've done what you're doing with satisfactory results and not a lot of money. Everything I've read on this thread so far sounds good. Assuming you have the same textured interior as the C-30 and depending on your available equipment and experience I recommend spraying the finish. I used a gravity feed HVLP gun, works way better than a siphon cup spraying the overhead.

I also recommend an acetone wash of the bare fiberglass immediately before the first coat, whether it's primer or paint. And I'd watch it on the gloss, it can be overdone. Save the wet look for the teak, makes it really pop.
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