starting after fixing

[tom hansen]

Just finished fixing stuck valve.took off head found stuck valve twisted it around added marvle oil replaced head gasket then reassembled. there was oil in the crank case so i changed it a few times. now it wont start and there seems to be water getting in the chambers. I have not opened the raw water valve so its not coming from there.when i pull a plug out there seems to be water resadue present. Any ideas?

[ILikeRust]

I'd say head gasket, since you say you pulled the head and replaced the gasket. Could very well be leaking.

What did you do as far as cleaning the deck and head before installing the new gasket? Did you properly torque the head nuts?

Did you replace with the set of two gaskets from Moyer?

[Mo]

Water will leave a bead on the end of the plug...gas will look wet with no bead.

[Dave Neptune]

How wet?

Tom, are you seeing moisture or actually droplets of water as Mo inquired? If the engine sat closed up for a while can get a bit of condensation from the water in the exhaust, however this is usually a "damp" condition not "wet". You may want to preassure check the manifold before removing the head, You'l need to take it off anyway to remove the head.

Dave Neptune

[tom hansen]

I did not use both head gaskets,dident know i should have, whats the reason for using 2 gaskets. Fill me in.

[ILikeRust]

Peruse this thread.

[tom hansen]

The thread i was reffered to only talks about the use of 2 head gaskets in refrence to compression,not water intrusion which seems to be happing to my engine. Would the compression change by using only one gasket be the reason for my motor not starting?

[Dave Neptune]

Sealing(?)

Tom, yes the 2 gaskets are to maintain the stock compression at 6.5 or so. Those are just the factory specs and a bit more compression can only help increase the power a bit and will have nothing to do with the sealing. The sealing is how well you prep the surfaces and how flat they are for a good seal. With the increase in compression there is still no need or advantage to to running anything but regular fuel. Next time I have my head off I' gonna use a single gasket and possibly shave a bit off the head for a compression increase. I put my beasties head down with 2 in 1984 and have had no reason to remove it to date.
I know a few who have gone to a single gasket and claimed an increase in available RPM's (power).

Dave Neptune

[Marian Claire]

The posted link does talk about "crush factor". To my simple mind that means that the new gaskets are "softer " than the old copper ones. Having two layers of this material may help seal any irregularities in the head/block joint. I could be totally wrong about that. In post #2 Rust also asked about block and head surface prep and torque. How did you prep the surfaces, specs call for a RMS 120, did you check for "flatness" and how did you torque the nuts? http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...hlight=gaskets Dan S/V Marian Claire

Advance search "gaskets" "Don Moyer" for some reading.

[tom hansen]

Did exactly what i did 5 years ago when i fixed the stuck valve then. cleaned both surfaces real good, checked for rusted or rotted spots then used permatex and one gasket to reseal. I tightened to specs.

[Marian Claire]

I believe not using any sealer is recommended. Dan S/V Marian Claire
Edit: By the way welcome to the forum.

[Marian Claire]

tom hansen: I am making an assumption here but in your first post did you mean to say "oil in the crankcase" or water in the crankcase. Why change the oil a few times if there is oil in the crankcase? Reason I ask is that the gasket could have been fine. Water could be getting into the cylinders from other sources. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[ILikeRust]

I believe not using any sealer is recommended.

I think that is mostly to make it easier to remove at a later time, should it become necessary. I don't think sealer would be detrimental to any other purpose, though.