Mechanical fuel pump rebuild services

[roadnsky]

Any thread or documentation that outlines the switch?

IF you buy the pump that MMI sells on this site, it has very easy to follow instructions on the switchover.
If the rest of us Knuckleheads can do it, trust me, you can too...

[hanleyclifford]

Sooo...Shawn - What sort of negotiable goodies do you have? I have a milkcrate full of mechanical pump parts.

[ndutton]

I have no idea who you are talking about here Neil!

So, is the fact that I have (almost) 3 mech pumps and the original Holley double-action thermostat as a spare a bad thing?

No, didn't mean to imply anything like that. I may have an electric fuel pump with side benefits discussed elsewhere on this forum but I confess to having a spare 3 spring thermostat, vinegar soaked and stove top tested. No spacer in my future.

[ndutton]

Neil brings up the point of a $40 dollar fuel pump. I really have not seen that as a solution mostly out of my ignorance of the mechanics of changing from mechanical to electric.

Any thread or documentation that outlines the switch?

When I threw out the $40 figure it was for the pump only bought through a discounted source. There are other parts necessary to complete a proper installation. If you prefer a complete package kit, as Roadnsky Jerry said there's one available on this site:

Here ya go

It will save you the forewarned multiple trips to the store. Maybe the parts department here could provide you with installation instructions so you can determine whether you want to take on the project. My opinion is it's easier than what you've already been through.

and dump the six month project/saga I have been engaged in.

Six months, really? Your old fuel pump is sending you a message. I expect there are plenty of old skoolers around here who'll be happy to take it off your hands.

[sastanley]

Sooo...Shawn - What sort of negotiable goodies do you have? I have a milkcrate full of mechanical pump parts.

Hanley, i am an A-4 newbie. I have only managed to procure one extra carb and since I have converted to the plate and single action t-stat, my original 3-spring is my 'spare'.

However, I have a friend with a Pearson 28 that is trying to put together a mechanical pump. He was going to buy the Moyer improved top section, but it looks like I don't have any spare parts to help him with the rest. I must have put them in the wrong box and pitched them.

I have a bronze prop shaft and a 2 blade 12" prop~

[hanleyclifford]

Shawn - Next trip thru Solomons I'll have her loaded with mechanicals. Will accept Confederate dollars or Heineken. Regards, Hanley

[rigspelt]

I think I have the old mechanical pump that I replaced with a Facet electrical, sitting on a shelf doing nothing important. I think the upper housing might possibly be warped (my excuse for getting the new Facet anyway), but apparently it was working OK for the PO when we bought the boat. PM me if interested.

[2dogsfishin]

4 extra fuel pumps

I was cleaning out my A4 carb&fuel pump drawer and found 4 mechanical fuel pumps. Anyone want them? You can have them for $5 packaging each and shipping from 32507.
I replace them with Facet electric pumps, so have no need for them. e mail me at oldflathead@bshmarine.com

Tom

[sastanley]

I just finished rebuilding another spare that is ready for service...if you guys can convince me to quit hoarding them and come further to the dark side at the next opportunity, I may be convinced. Maybe I just don't know any better.

[StephenGwyn]

Fuel pump rebuild

I had similar explosion of springs. Just to be clear:

I have installed both springs vertical, parallel to each other in the little seats in the bottom half of the housing. I have put two little caps on top of the springs. One of the caps then naturally lies under the rod connected to the diaphragm. The other lies under a bit of the mechanism that is activated by the push rod.

Is this correct?

Second question: The instructions emphasise not tightening the various
screws too much. I'm worried about obtain a good seal. Should
I apply Permatec to the following locations:
1) The diaphragm and the two halves of the pump body?
2) The cork gasket between rocker arm cover and the lower half of the pump body
3) The pump and the engine?

How tight should the pipe fitting connect the copper tube to the carb be?

Thanks,

SG

one question on the rebuild of the fuel pump: since the lower housing cover came off with an explosion of springs and associated parts i did not get to examine the placement of same. i surmized from the picture that the two springs are placed, one on the rocker arm and one on the end of the rocker arm over the end of the plunger/diaphram. they then fit the hubs on the cover on the other end. is that correct? assembled this way i get a healthy squirt of gas using the priming lever, and similar noise if i engage the end of the rocker arm and push it with a screwdriver.

[Al Schober]

Stephan,
The only one of those locations where you 'might' need some Permatex is between the diaphragm and the upper body, and this is only if the mating surface in the upper body is in poor shape. The other joints are normally dry. The only time they would do any sealing is if the diaphragm fails. In that case, I'd want to know there was a leak - ie: before the crankcase filled up with gas.