Pros and Cons of Starter Button vs. Keyed Switch

[Jimmy]

Getting around to building my dream instrument panel. I have acquired the gauges, and am planning the switches. 4 rocker switches for navigation/ steaming/ deck lights, plus a spare.
I am wrestling with a typical keyed ignition vs. a run toggle switch and start button.
Would appreciate any feedback, insight from others that have travelled this path before.
Bonus query - has anyone ever played with the idea of " electronic choke?". Think relay and servo....hmmm

Cheers
Jimmy

[Dave Neptune]

Jimmy, your choice entirely. Key switches do go bad and toggle switches get bumped and/or not turned off. Both work fine. The key switch may add a bit of security though.

As far as a servo or solenoid choke actuator I would not advise it. Often times when things go awry the A-4 can be kept running with a degree of choke application.

Dave Ne0ptune

[ndutton]

After multiple failures (moisture I think) I gave up on a keyswitch and went with a booted toggle for ignition and a booted pushbutton for the starter. Going this direction you have a variety of amperage ratings available, the boots protect against moisture incursion and are also available in different colors for easy identification.

Absentmindedly leaving the ignition on is a risk with both a keyswitch and a toggle but an alarm system solves that.

I'd like to see your plan for your dream panel and when it's done, the finished product.

[Jimmy]

Dave - I completely agree with you comments regarding automatic choke....never thought of that, but was thinking more of the cosmetics.
Neil - I will take a few pics along the way, and as soon as I have successfully pulled my panel from the mold, I'll start posting. I am working with a female mold made of wood / waxed/ layed up with epoxy and cloth. Finished product with need minor fairing and paint. No gel coat.

Cheers
Jimmy

[thatch]

Electric Choke

Hi Jimmy, I recently made a new instrument panel and rather than run the 15'+ of manual choke cable, I went with an electric unit. It is made from a 12v. door lock actuator and works like a choke on an outboard motor. It's either open or closed, no halfway. My engine starts with very little "choke help" so it has worked well for me.
Tom

[ndutton]

Pictures of Tom's choke actuator

[toddster]

Interesting idea, but it seems to me that in the winter time, the choke needs to be "eased off" instead of abruptly opened. FWIW, my "solution" was to leave the choke knob off the new panel. The old cable just wouldn't reach the new position, so the knob got ("temporarily") installed in a nook in the galley wall.
Hey, it's an anti-theft mechanism, since I don't have a key any more!

[thatch]

As I said, it functions much like an outboard choke. The starting goes something like this. When the engine is cold I start with about 1/4 throttle, begin cranking the engine and then close the choke. When it fires (normally within 2 seconds), I leave the choke closed until the engine starts to stumble. I then release the choke button. If it begins to die, I push the choke button and repeat the process if necessary. Ignition timing and carb condition play a big part in how an A4 will start.
Tom

[Wrsteinesq]

As to the nav lights, here’s what I did: one switch/breaker turns ‘nav lights’ on or off. Power to the nav lights is split downstream of the breaker at a relay, triggered by the engine ignition. This means that with ignition off, it’s a sailboat; and power runs to a masthead tricolor. With ignition on, it’s a motorboat, and power runs instead to deck-level running lights, plus a steaming light. The masthead unit has the ability to be switched from tricolor to anchor light, which is another switch; and also (by powering both the tricolor and anchor lights simultaneously) to function as a strobe. So far it seems to working exactly as planned.

[Wrsteinesq]

As to the starter switch question, I put an ignition switch (not keyed) just inside the companionway. The starter button is inside a cockpit locker. That way neither is exposed to being kicked, etc., in the cockpit.

[sdemore]

C&C didn't use a key on mine and when I checked to see why, I found that it really didn't provide any additional security. You have to open and enter the boat to turn the battery switch on anyway, and if a criminal can do that, bypassing a switch located right next to the locker door, wouldn't be much of a challenge.

[joe_db]

Pictures of Tom's choke actuator

What model door lock actuator is that? That looks way cool

[thatch]

Joe, I picked it up from a place called All Electronics in Van Nuys Calif. They are new surplus, but they have them on an ongoing basis. No car or model info is given but they have plenty of pull to close the choke. I don't recall the price, but they are pretty cheap.
Tom

[toddster]

There is always a variety of small motors and actuators like that available at "American Science & Surplus." I have trained myself to stop looking at their circulars, because I'm trying to declutter, not accumulate!
12V power locks currently $4.50

[capnward]

I like having an ignition switch and a booted starter button, so that I can turn the engine over without ignition. I have had both go bad and be replaced. Both are exposed to the elements,thieves, and inquisitive toddlers, but access is very good. Sometimes you need to start the engine right now. Thieves are not an issue with this boat in this place, so a toggle would be fine. I wouldn't mind a booted toggle instead of a key switch, but a key switch is a little harder to turn off accidentally than a toggle. I have had the key broken off in the switch by someone stepping on it, turning off the engine and making any key or small screwdriver into an ignition key with partial insertion. What I envision is a toggle that lights when it's on, but has a transparent cover to resist accidental switching, and a boot to resist moisture. Does such a thing exist?
I have no problem pulling a cable to close the choke. On my boat the carb is about 4 feet from the dash.