Fuel filter change

[KevinD]

I have an atomic 4 on my C&C 30 (new to me last year), and I want to change the fuel filter. It is an old style with a glass bowl on bottom. See the attached picture How does this come apart? I'm guessing there is a central bolt holding it together.

[Boat]

Ya. its the one there on top, center.

[joe_db]

That looks like a diesel filter to me.

[capnward]

uh-oh, the maple leaf...

Never seen that kind of filter hardware before. Looks suspiciously Canadian. It probably works great, unless it is meant for a diesel, then it still might. I understand that glass or plastic bowls are not allowed by the US Coast Guard on inboard gas engines. You might get yourself a Racor 320R-RAC-02 with a metal bowl, Moyer sells them, as do others. Get extra filters when you do. They screw on hand tight, no central bolt. Oil the seals first. Also get a valve for gasoline and attach it to the bottom for easier draining, to check for water and gunk in the fuel.
And welcome to the forum. Stay tuned!

[Boat]

lol Canadian! missed that. sure looks diesel to me too, bleeder petcock at the top.

[KevinD]

thanks for the feedback - I think I'll plan to replace with the Racor model next season. I already have the new filter to install this year.

I have another question though - I assume that I will shut off fuel with a valve I have near tank, and then drain the fuel out the bottom of the glass bowl before taking this apart.

But then, do I need to do anything special after installing the new filter to fill with fuel or will that happen automatically when the engine gets going?

thanks
Kevin

------
S/V Solevento
1980 C&C 30
Kingston

[joe_db]

I sent my Racor to the dumpster. The elements were expensive, they would rust, were about impossible to remove, and draining water required 3 hands and still was likely to make a mess. Considering any separated water in ethanol gas pretty much means the whole tank is full of gunk, it was also kind of pointless to drain it.
My Sierra generic filters are about $8 and I just drop them into a plastic bag to change them. They too can rust, but I can change about 5 of them or more for the price of one Racor, assuming you can even get the bottom part off. BTW, you would have to have REALLY bad gas to clog an entire canister filter up with dirt in a season

[Peter]

But then, do I need to do anything special after installing the new filter to fill with fuel or will that happen automatically when the engine gets going?

It helps to fill the filter up with fuel before you install it. This of course can be tricky. It does not have to be brimming full.

Do a few dry runs to plan how you are going to maneuver the filter into place without tipping it. I put the filter into a heavy duty plastic bag (which I tested with gas first to make sure it was not going to dissolve) to catch any spills.

Peter

[capnward]

Kevin you are right, shut off the fuel before the filter, and drain it into a jar before removal. Or you can run the engine out of fuel, that will also make for less fuel in the filter. You will spill less gas that way. On reinstalling the filter, if you're lucky enough to have a mechanical fuel pump, you just pump the bail under the pump and it will draw gas from the tank, filling the filters, and up against the float valve in the carb, pressurizing the entire system. Then the bail loses resistance. You can then start the engine on just a few revs. Good to know, if your battery is so low that it cant crank for very long. Or, you may be able to just crank the engine until it fills the fuel line and filters. It could take a while, but leave the water cut off until it starts, or you may get water in the cylinders with some exhaust systems. I install my Racor bone dry except for oil on the rubber seals. I do have to use an automotive oil filter wrench and a large screwdriver to take the bottom off. I probably replace filters before it's necessary. I think you can similarly prime the fuel line if you have an electric fuel pump, by bypassing the oil pressure safety switch.