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  #26   IP: 172.79.202.6
Old 12-16-2018, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
Is this block still usable?????
Hard to tell from the photo. If there's any question, you could always get the cylinders sleeved. Just takes $$.��

A good rule of thumb to determine the remaining thickness of the block in general is to examine the lower ends of the head studs that you extracted. Since they protrude into the water jacket, they tend to corrode off flush with the inner surface. This gives you a way to measure the remaining deck thickness. If there are less than three threads left, the block is done.
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Last edited by edwardc; 12-16-2018 at 09:33 AM.
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  #27   IP: 184.151.231.122
Old 12-21-2018, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardc View Post
Hard to tell from the photo. If there's any question, you could always get the cylinders sleeved. Just takes $$.��

A good rule of thumb to determine the remaining thickness of the block in general is to examine the lower ends of the head studs that you extracted. Since they protrude into the water jacket, they tend to corrode off flush with the inner surface. This gives you a way to measure the remaining deck thickness. If there are less than three threads left, the block is done.
I wish I had photos of the studs to post. I had carefully inspected them All, each stud has 5 to 6 threads left on them I also took some measurements. 13 studs should measure 2.75" after pulling them I measured 2.60", the two studs for the lifting eye, they should measure 2.88", and I measured 2.80"

Taking a break from the rebuild till February as I'm back to sea. I will be ordering a new head from Don to conduct a pressure test when I'm home.

Happy Holidays.
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  #28   IP: 24.127.240.91
Old 12-27-2018, 06:50 PM
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Useable?

Looking at your pictures, and it could be very deceiving as well, it really looks like bad news! I perused through your pics and comments and I may have missed it somewhere was this motor a raw water, salt water motor? In my opinion I would be looking for a suitable replacement motor or core and start from there. Ofcourse you are closer to the battle than I am sitting looking at your pictures and posts. I wish you the best in this project; look forward to your updates when you get back at it.
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  #29   IP: 137.200.32.54
Old 12-28-2018, 10:27 AM
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The thing we can't tell from a photo is if the block is badly corroded and missing a lot of metal - which is what it looks like to me - or if it is gunked up with mud, scale, and algae and that is what is starting to come off. Might be worth hot-tanking it.
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  #30   IP: 99.30.185.198
Old 12-28-2018, 02:25 PM
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GridSquare, Your comments and questions are "spot on" and , by the way, welcome to the forum.
Tom
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  #31   IP: 209.210.252.244
Old 12-28-2018, 04:13 PM
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Are you planning to work with an engine machine shop on this? If so, I'd suggest you have them take a look at the block and advise. If they don't see any obvious show stoppers, they'll probably recommend hot tank and magnaflux. That will strip away the crud, and identify if there's any cracking.

Assuming it passes that, you may want to have them measure the cylinder bores for wear and taper. Depending on what they find there, they may recommend boring, sleeving, or just a quick hone if everything's in spec. If they bore, you'll probably need new oversize pistons.

Assuming all that is fine, they'll probably suggest decking it (fly cut on top to assure perfect flatness for the cylinder head).

Oh, and chances are after you pull the crankshaft you won't like the looks of the journals. Machine shop can freshen those up, but then you'll probably need oversize crank bearings.

All this stuff is available through Moyer, and Don will appreciate you helping him make his next Porsche payment!

Welcome to the club!
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Last edited by wristwister; 12-28-2018 at 04:18 PM.
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  #32   IP: 74.107.30.131
Old 12-28-2018, 11:07 PM
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Thumbs up

Koerk, I know you are out to sea, so you may not see this for a bit, but the nice thing is at least you can get all the parts from Moyer. I used to be scanning the interwebs for blocks, but now (even though they are not cheap from MMI) at least they are available. I am running an MMI manifold on my engine.
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  #33   IP: 24.69.137.61
Old 01-04-2019, 10:32 PM
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Thanks for everything.

I have perused the recent posts, thank you for all the help and advice. I have decided the best thing to do going forward is to strip it all down and just have a machine shop check the block for cracks and then move forward from there. If its not viable I'll be installing a new westerbeke 3.5 kW gas genset and go electric drive. I can't wait to get back at it in February. Happy New year to all!. Cheers!

PS: She is raw water cooled and has only been run in salt water off the coast of Nova scotia.

Last edited by Koerk; 01-04-2019 at 10:36 PM.
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  #34   IP: 24.224.195.189
Old 01-05-2019, 10:14 AM
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Nova Automotive could check it all out for you. They've also rebuilt a few as well that I know of.
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  #35   IP: 71.7.227.12
Old 02-09-2019, 08:36 AM
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Back at it again.

Good day, gentlemen. I am now back to work stripping the engine bare. Thanks to Mo. I have been in talks with a local machine shop regarding hot tanking and checking the viability of the block.

So far I have only removed the aft housing and reversing gear, Exposing all the drive gears for the cam shaft, crank shaft, oil pump, and accessory drive.

With the pistons still siezed in the cylinder. I'm wondering if I should continue and attempt to free the pistons now or move forward tearing the crank out and then the cam and finally free the pistons. I'm curious as to your oppions as I'm leaning for the route that yeilds the most progress durring my short time home.

Cheers.
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  #36   IP: 137.103.82.194
Old 02-09-2019, 11:05 AM
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Take the crank out first. Then you can whack the pistons one at a time
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  #37   IP: 107.77.97.100
Old 02-09-2019, 02:51 PM
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There a few stories on this forum of motors worse than yours being revived. But those projects were usually done by some well-experienced mechanics. The labor bill for shop work is different for them.
I would be cautious about going off the deep end with a project when there are often running engines or better rebuildable cores to be had for anywhere from $500 to $1500. A running engine is NOT a guarantee, but repairs can be assessed more completely.

The economics of restoring a poor core can be a deal breaker. Keep a weather eye on the market for other donor engines, and stay off the the lee shore of a costly rebuild budget.

Cheers,
Russ

Just saw this today:

https://maine.craigslist.org/bpo/d/w...812778714.html


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  #38   IP: 71.7.227.12
Old 02-09-2019, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lat 64;115804)
The economics of restoring a poor core can be a deal breaker.
Thanks for the heads up. I have been watching the bottom line closely, If it amounts to being a lemon after consulting the machine shop I will probably look for a small gen set and convert to electric propulsion.
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  #39   IP: 71.7.227.12
Old 02-10-2019, 12:31 PM
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Arrow Oil pan removal

Moving ahead today I have removed the oil pan, to expose the crank, upon early inspection there is corrosion in the cylinders. Number 4 was the worse while #1 remains pretty much clean, this was to no surprise as I knew water had entruded into my number 4 cylinder, while cranking with my seacock open. Rookie mistake.
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  #40   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 02-10-2019, 12:45 PM
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Have you established a not-to-exceed budget for this project yet?
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:35 AM
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http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...817#post115817

You might start with something like this instead of your block.
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