Just another overhaul thread

[Surcouf]

Pictures two
Thank you

[ronstory]

Oh Dude... I'm so sorry. You have been on the wrong side of the "probability of things going good/bad" bell curve on this refit.

Hang in there... it will get better.

[edwardc]

- I have a broken distributor "tube" stuck in my accessory module... what can I do now with the distributor shaft still in place? How do I remove the "plate" that is rotating with the shaft and located at the bottom of the distributor? (see 4th picture below). Do I need a very small extractor?
- Once I remove that plate, and so can remove the broken distributor body, how can I remove the shaft, still linked to the gear, blocked by the broken tube??
- if I can get the shaft out (how?), how do I remove the broken tube? I drill it out?

Wow! What a nightmare.

At least there's hope. And a couple of choices based on money vs time.

The quickest, but most expensive, solution is to buy a new Pertronix distributor and a rebuilt accessory drive from MMI. This is a bolt-in solution, but will set you back $675 ($400 +$275). And it leaves you with electronic ignition!

The hardest, but least expensive, solution is to somehow remove enough of the distributor without destroying anything more. You may need to use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to disect the remains of the distributor body. Then use a thin bladed sabersaw hacksaw to slice through the wall of the broken-off tube from the inside so it releases and can be removed. All without scoring the wall of the accessory drive. A machine shop may be able to help you with this.

Once all this is done, a distributor body replacement is available from MMI for $80. Salvage all the other distributor parts and reassemble.

And of course, the bolt holding the clamp broke... and now I have to find a way to remove it... and I have learnt my lessons: screw extractors just DO NOT work!!!

Using a sharp center punch, put a "divot" directly in the center of the broken off bolt. The more accurately you get this centered, the better the outcome.

Using the punch mark as a guide, drill a small pilot hole in the center of the bolt stub. Then use successively larger bits, slowly enlarge the hole. Left-handed bits are useful here if you have or can get them. They often will unscrew the stub as it gets thinner and weaker.

If you reach the point where you are right about to start damaging threads, you can use an awl and a needle nose to try and remove the remaining bits of bolt from the threads. Finish up with a tap of the same size as the original bolt .

If all this fails, you can drill it out to the next bigger size, tap it, and use a helicoil or repair collar to finish the fix. Repair collars are better if you can get them as they are sealed and have one less place for oil to leak thru.

[Surcouf]

Thank you for your advices!!!!

It was not pretty nor elegant, based on brut force and ugly drilling.... but the remains of the distributor body is out, shaft and gear seem OK; accessory module is fine.
There are a few “gaskets” / plastic washers damaged, not sure if MM has them on stock, I cannot find that anywhere online. I will ask Ken on Monday, when buying the new distributor body.

[ronstory]

Great job gorillain' it apart. As for the parts, fear not, it's early model Delco distributor so parts are widely available. Most of the changes on various models of Delco is the length of the shaft and the gear for specific applications. A lot of the part are just interchangeable.

Also, if you drop off the parts at a distributor shop with the new housing... it will come back new. Plus they will give you the resulting advance curve. Don't forget to order "improved" distributor springs from MMI or Indigo.

[Surcouf]

Great job gorillain' it apart. As for the parts, fear not, it's early model Delco distributor so parts are widely available. Most of the changes on various models of Delco is the length of the shaft and the gear for specific applications. A lot of the part are just interchangeable.

Also, if you drop off the parts at a distributor shop with the new housing... it will come back new. Plus they will give you the resulting advance curve. Don't forget to order "improved" distributor springs from MMI or Indigo.

Thank you. follow-up questions:
- are you sure I have an early model distributor? The igniter module was mounted on a flat plate, not like the one sold by MM for early model
- if it is an early model, that may be an issue as MM is only selling a body for late models, not early ones

Thank you!!!

[edwardc]

Another possibility. Saw this distributor on ebay for $150 + $20 shipping:

https://www.ebay.com/i/193315314534?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=193315314534&targetid=883687709934&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9007726&poi=&campaignid=9338046419&mkgroupid=103102861148&rlsatarget=pla-883687709934&abcId=1139336&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkJ20vJLP6AIVibWzCh0TMw1WEAQYASABEgK0r_D_BwE

[ronstory]

Thank you. follow-up questions:
- are you sure I have an early model distributor? The igniter module was mounted on a flat plate, not like the one sold by MM for early model
- if it is an early model, that may be an issue as MM is only selling a body for late models, not early ones

Thank you!!!

Sorry for the confusion, you have an early style delco distributor body that was used in just about all GM products from the early 60s to the mid 70s. It was replaced by the ugly, big but very functional delco HEI models.

A4 has two distributors bodies, the early prestolite with the clips and the late model Delco which you have. A lot of the parts on the late model (dust seals, washers/shim) will be similar to the GM distributors. I've stolen parts from my chevy bin in the past.

Note that the late model distributor cap and rotor are the same part numbers as an early Chevy Vega. I know the 1974 Vega works, since that was my first car.

When I first saw the A4 in Surprise... I thought that I had seen that disti before. The shaft and body are just shorter then the Vega version, plus a different drive gear.

[Surcouf]

I guessed my boat never embodied better his (or her?) name... «*Almost there*»

[Surcouf]

Also, if you let POR-15 get in the lip of the can where the metal lid attaches, you can forget about opening it again. What I do when i open the gallon, I have the metal quart paint containers from home depot on hand. Then I paint everything I can possibly paint and then pour the remnants carefully into the fresh quart containers and seal. Good for about a year if done well.

if you are using the quarts, keep a couple of the metal pint containers on hand as well.

this is where this blog is priceless.... without your previous advice, I would have ended up with my expensive paint drying up!
Thank you !!!

[ronstory]

Glad to help. After my first experience of POR-15 'lid weld' I ended up drilling a hole in the lid to pour it out into smaller containers.

Sometimes I wonder if POR-15 really just a mild mannered paint, or an adhesive masquerading as paint. ;^)

[Surcouf]

There is no more frustrating that the paint part of an overhaul....

After the initial catastrophée or the POR-15 on the oil pan, I went back to bare metal on the pan, then 2 coats of POR-15, light sanding on every parts, then a coat of POR Primer (blue-ish). And now as I start to paint in MM bronze for the block... the flywheel cover and the oil pan paint is a mess: paint is reacting like with a paint remover . Ugly. I can’t take that any more. So some scrapping and re-painting. I just hate painting. I hate painting.... but the block looks great. But I hate painting


Anyway, back to the question of the day: I have lost the key for the alternator pulley... lesson of the day: never enough dismantling pictures, never enough plastic bags and labels!!! Several months later you have no idea where goes every piece (unless it is your second or third overhaul).
How do I replace that key? Is that standard? Specific dimensions?
Thank you!!

[Ando]

Why is the por-15/paint doing that?

[ndutton]

Why is the por-15/paint doing that?

Inadequate drying time between coats.

[Surcouf]

Inadequate drying time between coats.

Could too much time be an issue? I had 24h between the primer and the first spray coat. Before primer, 2 coats of POR several weeks before.
The block had the exact same «*paint schedule*», not a single «*ugly star*»...