New Control Panel Enclosures!

[ILikeRust]

I'm thinking you'd have to be heeled about 90 degrees over before you'd have to worry about that shield "flapping". Gravity should hold it down just fine, I would think.

As Neil notes above, it looks like the depth is 1-1/4".

[sastanley]

Ooooo...When my $13 brownie pan fails, I know where I am getting a replacement!

[Administrator]

Several inquiries have been posted since the announcement originally appeared. This announcement has been edited to provide additional information.

MMI is pleased to announce the following new control panel enclosure products. These enclosures are an ideal choice for installations where a minimal protrusion is desired and the instrument panel may be subjected to frequent exposure to weather and/or spray. Constructed of sturdy ABS plastic, the enclosures also feature a clear acrylic hinged spray shield. The bottom edge of the recess is sloped to facilitate drainage. A Velcro closure at the bottom center of the panel secures the cover.

When installing the panel, use a sealant which is compatible with ABS plastic.

Four mounting holes are predrilled in the corners of the exterior flange and four #8 Philips flat-headed stainless mounting screws are included. No other holes are predrilled. Gauges not included; scale is approximate.

Depth of the panel is 1-1/4 inches. If you're contemplating installing a key, check this dimension.

Control Panel Enclosure 9-3/8 inches (click here)
This enclosure is capable of accommodating (4) two-inch gauges or equivalent.

Control Panel Enclosure 12 inches (click here)
This enclosure is capable of accommodating (6) two-inch gauges or equivalent.

A picture of the larger unit is shown below:

[HOTFLASH]

New cockpit instrument panel

Verrrry interesting

Looks like it is something I could use---Can in be installed vertically? What about the clear over and its hinges? And they be reoriented?

Mary

[ndutton]

Hotflash,

Based on the product description I think the enclosure can be mounted the way you want. There are a couple of things to consider though:

The bottom edge of the recess is sloped to facilitate drainage.

Orientation other than as shown in the picture will lose the benefit of the sloped recess bottom and the drainage feature.

Regarding the hinged spray shield, it isn't watertight so having the hinge on the side rather than the top shouldn't make any difference. There's a Velcro closure to keep the shield closed

[roadnsky]

This past weekend I finally got around to installing my new Cockpit Control Panel.
I'd been putting this off forever because along with cutting new holes in both the panel for the gauges and the cockpit for the larger panel, I wanted to do some re-wiring.
It turned out great and everything worked the first time!

[JonnyQuest]

Inspiring Jerry. Nice work too!

[ndutton]

A little help please

So Jerry, studying the wiring on the back of the panel I think I see ignition, start and blower switches (two illuminated), gauge illumination hot buss and choke cable, correct?

How are you switching the gauge illumination (red wire to the buss?)?

edit:
I just realized the first picture is with the spray shield down. Couldn't even tell. NICE!

[roadnsky]

So Jerry, studying the wiring on the back of the panel I think I see ignition, start and blower switches (two illuminated), gauge illumination hot buss and choke cable, correct?

How are you switching the gauge illumination (red wire to the buss?)?

Wow! That's kinda scary that you can spot all of that so exactly!
(Did you notice that one illuminated switch is RED and the other GREEN?)

I have the gauge lighting on a separate switch on the DC panel so it's only lit up when I need it and not just when the ignition is energized.

[ndutton]

Wow! That's kinda scary that you can spot all of that so exactly!

I can't help it, it's what I do. One of my regular clients is the State of California for whom I perform inspections/investigations within the electrical field, conducted an investigation just this week. I produce a report that hopefully will end the dispute between customer and contractor but if not I must be prepared to defend the report in a court of law. All this is based on jobsite observations without input from either party (disputing parties' input is not evidence in my involvement) It's sort of forensic.

I opted for connecting gauge illumination to the navigation lights thereby saving a switch space.

[roadnsky]

I opted for connecting gauge illumination to the navigation lights thereby saving a switch space.

That's how mine used to be.
But with the roomy new panel, I was able to move the blower switch to the cockpit panel and freed up a spare circuit on the DC Panel.

You may have noticed that I left everything arranged so I could get 2 more gauges in the cockpit panel if the need arises in the future.
I really like having the vacuum gauge where I can easily watch it along with the other gauges whilst running.
(It used to be mounted in the engine room)

[ndutton]

I see room for one more gauge, not two unless the choke cable is relocated.

Nice project and professional in appearance. Before it was available we were left to our own varied ingenuity. I made mine of fiberglass and it's replacement with one of these is on the project list. The defect in my current one is water pooling at the bottom of the recess. The bottom slope of the MMI panel resolves this. I hate the puddle.

[roadnsky]

I see room for one more gauge, not two unless the choke cable is relocated.

My plan would be to move the choke down to the Blower hole.
Then drill a hole between the Ignition switch and Starter Button.

At this point, I really doubt I'd add 2 more gauges to that panel.
But, then again... plan for the unknown future.

Before it was available we were left to our own varied ingenuity. I made mine of fiberglass and it's replacement with one of these is on the project list.

I was worried how hard it'd be drilling the 2" holes in the panel but it was a breeze.
Hardest part was figuring out the precise spacing and placement.

[toddster]

Nice. The panel looks roomier than I thought it would be. Of course, good layout helps with that.

I have yet to tackle my engine panel, other than cleaning up some PO nastiness. One issue is that I think the back should be enclosed, if there is something like an open sail locker behind it. (I already inadvertently knocked a wire loose from it while working on the muffler - smoked a wire - yes, discovered a missing fuse.) Maybe even something as simple as a plastic food-service tub could be screwed on behind there.

Re: Instrument lights. As long as they're white lights, I'd rather have them on a separate switch from the running lights and the binnacle. Has anyone had success with converting existing gauges to red LED illumination or the like?

[Sony2000]

For a marine adhesive/sealant, you can't go wrong with Sikaflex sold at the most popular marine supply stores.
Where it surpasses silicone is when you have to remove it. The surfaces will not be contaminated with residual product, that insists on aggressive sanding to prep the surface for lets say, fiberglassing. epoxy, painting or Sikaflex.