#1
IP: 76.106.5.221
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Having trouble finding someone to test alternator
I stopped by the Auto Zone to see if they could check out the Motorola 35-amp alternator off my engine, but they said they couldn't do it because they didn't have a matching pigtail for the exciter lead off the alternator.
Before I start chasing all over the place, does anyone know of a place in the Frederick, MD - Baltimore area that can actually check out one of these alternators? Thanks! |
#2
IP: 71.167.190.42
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I think AutoZone just wants to (try) to sell you a new alternator. Try a NAPA auto parts store. The one in my neighborhood took a few days to test mine out -- I think they have an "alternator guy" who comes by every few days to test, report back, and rebuild as necessary.
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#3
IP: 142.68.116.40
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Look for a specialized alternator shop. There are two in our small city who sometimes even bench test on the spot. There must be more in larger centers, unless they too are a species going extinct. One of them checked our original 35 amp Motorola when we bought the boat last year: 13.2 volts, very close to the expected 13.4-13.5 for that model, which is too low for our new electrical system, so I replaced it.
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1974 C&C 27 Last edited by rigspelt; 01-22-2009 at 04:51 AM. |
#4
IP: 70.90.87.69
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I've used a simple standard slide connector from the hardware store to make that connection. Sounds like a line of bs from Auto Zone.
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#5
IP: 63.239.69.1
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That particular Auto Zone has been very helpful to me in the past, so if the guy had wrong information about how they can test alternators, I'll give him the benefit of the doubt on it.
I'll look around for an alternator shop in the Baltimore area. I can also try the Advance Auto Parts store, they might have better luck, or more knowledge. Thanks for all the tips. One other question: does the shop need to know how many rpms to spin the alternator? If they do, would it just be the normal 1800 rpm of the engine during cruising, or some other number? Thanks again! Last edited by Baltimore Sailor; 01-22-2009 at 10:33 AM. |
#6
IP: 12.47.208.34
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The engine RPMs don't necessarily correspond to the alternator RPMs. Presumably the ratio of the engine and alternator pulley diameters is designed to drive the alternator at a reasonable or typical rate.
I don't think the alternator test comes back "OK at 2300 rpms but not OK at 1500 rpms." Most electronics don't break down that way--a blown diode or shorted windings will be off at any speed. |
#7
IP: 69.162.193.230
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Shop guide
I just brought my alternator and starter to an old auto-electric rebuilder in Fairbanks. The guy there identified both by just glancing at them.
Here's how to spot a good shop: You have to go to the bad part of town(industrial that is) They don't always advertise, you need a referral. First go to a tractor, trucking or marine shop; or a smoky bar to get this. The front door is hard to find. If there is a pit bull at the door, try another shop. The place will be dark and no one will be at the counter. This is ok.—they are working. you'll hear hissing and other noises of bench-top industry. There is a bell somewhere—look around for it. Don't use the bell, it's rude. Yell "helloooooo". This will bring an old blind black Labrador retriever to the front. This is ok. you will now be served. Give them your phone number, it's all they need(no cell, you don't want to look like a spender) Talk mostly about the weather and casually mention it's for OLD boat that you are helping to fix up. Beyond that be honest. Admit you don't know much but heard they were a good shop. Absolutely NO politics! No, you are NOT in a hurry. No, they do NOT have a web site–ask for their business card. The card will be old and greasy. Don't worry you can wash up later. You must learn how to say " have a good one" in the local dialect, and tell them you have to get back to your lame job. This is a good time to ask for their referral to a good lunch cafe. Get lost so they can get back to work. You have been talking to the actual person that will do the work. Watch your step as you leave. The lab is blind remember, and he doesn't go far from the door. good luck, Russ
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" Last edited by lat 64; 01-22-2009 at 01:06 PM. Reason: punctuation |
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#8
IP: 76.106.5.221
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Stopped by Advance Auto Parts on the way home from work today, alternator in hand, to see if they could test it. The conversation went approximately like this:
Me: Can you check this out for me? Lady behind counter: Sure. What kind of car is it from? Me: It's not from a car, it's off my boat engine. But it's a standard 12-volt alternator. Her: Hm. Looks like an old Chevy alternator. [Starts typing on her computer, brings up various alternators on the screen] Hmmmmm... OK. [Picks up the alternator and takes it back to the test station, attaches a belt to the pulley and the test station's motor, and tensions the belt.] I'll have one of the guys that usually run these tests come up front to do this for you. [A few minutes pass, and a young dude walks up to the test station] Him: Hi. What kind of car is this from? Me: It's not off a car, it's off my boat engine. But it's a regular 12-volt alternator. Him [looking gravely at my alternator]: Well, let's see... [Picks up the yellow exciter wire and looks at it curiously, saying nothing] Me: That's the exciter wire... I don't really know what it does... it connects to the coil. Him [brightly]: Let's hook it up and see what we can do. [Ignores the exciter wire entirely, and attaches the positive lead to where I show him is the positive terminal and the negative lead to the body of the alternator. Pushes a button on the test station's panel and the alternator starts spinning. A needle on one of the dials swings over to the right, well short of the "green" area on the gauge. The young guy looks pleased.] Him: Well, that did it. The alternator's no good. Me: I knew that. Can you tell me what's wrong with it? Which diode is bad, or whatever? Him: Oh no, this test doesn't do that. It can only tell you if the alternator is good or bad. [Takes the alternator off the test station.] Me: Oh. OK. Well, I already knew it was bad; I thought your test would let me know if a particular diode was bad, or maybe the regulator... Him: No, that's all I can tell you, sorry. Me: OK, thanks. Next stop a real alternator repair shop, I suppose. I've found a couple by Googling for them in the Baltimore area. They're over in the industrial section of town. |
#9
IP: 12.39.51.131
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Quote:
This is brilliant and 95% descriptive (no dog) of my recent experience at a place called Bronx Alternator. (When I was told by my referrer that I should "try Bronx Alternator" I thought he was jokingly suggesting that I steal somebody else's alternator.) I gave them my alternator and my phone number and received only a brief lecture not to wait weeks to pick up the fixed alternator. |
#10
IP: 142.68.116.40
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Take a carboard tray of coffees from the nearby takeout. And a dog biscuit - but ask first if the dog can have it.
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1974 C&C 27 |
#11
IP: 142.68.116.40
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Quote:
--- Apparently these alternators were common as sidewalks. Ours appears to have a Transpo external alternator attached to it, probably aftermarket at some point in the past 35 years. Lo and behold I found the regulator described on this page: http://195.125.241.148/cgi-win/product.exe?M5197A Transpo M5-197A REG MO 12V replacing OE MOTOROLA 105-197 5-197 8 RG 2010A Voltage Set Point: 15.0 V Regulation: B-Circuit Adjustable Voltage Short Key Hole Case Style Terminal Identification: PLUG-TYPE: K WIRING CODE 3 RED...................ISOLATION DIODE(+) BLACK .............GROUND GREEN..............FIELD YELLOW...........IGNITION A webpage said "An alternator date code was typically stamped at the back of the rear housing in large black ink numbers. For example 185418 = 185 would mean Motorola (MFGR) then 4 would indicate year (3 for 1973, 4 for 1974, etc) and 18 (week of the year)". (Doesn't seem to work for me.) Somewhere I found this: "Universal Atomic 4, post 1967: 12 volt DC, 35 amp Motorola marine alternator, transistorized alternator-mounted voltage regulator, 12 volt DC solenoid equipped starter (optional 50 amp Motorola marine alternator was available at extra cost)". Another page said this about the 35 amp Motorola, but I cannot verify that it relates specifically to the ones used on A4s: "Orange - Output. Green - F Field terminal to Regulator. Black - Regulator to Ground Yellow - Excitor: Coil positive to Regulator." Another page said "The 1965 Motorola regulators used only 3 wires - Black, Green and Orange. In 1966 an additional wire was added - the yellow ignition feed or "exciter". This "excites" the system. It comes from the coil feed on the starter solenoid. Since the regulator does not ground through its case, but through the alternator, it's a good idea to make sure the alternator is firmly installed and grounded to the engine - normally the brackets will do a good job." (This also does not seem to fit our alternator, which has a black ground wire to the regulator.) ---
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1974 C&C 27 Last edited by rigspelt; 01-23-2009 at 06:01 AM. |
#12
IP: 69.162.193.86
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Alternate shop
Tenders,
My first belly laugh of the day, "Bronx Alternator", thanks. I just got my alt. and starter back yesterday. Even though the starter was "working" He said some of the windings were bad and he put a new solenoid on it. Both got the new bearings, brushes, cleanup, check out and marine paint job. The bill for both was $240.00. Some information I think one could use: My guy said the same alternator was used on John Deere and other equipment(see, I told you tractor shop). The plate that holds the positive terminal post has a diode pressed in it that is for back-feed and over-current protection. Mine has two. This is not one of the rectifying diodes—they are inside. If this diode(s) fails or gets burn up doing it's job, then you can move your positive wire to one of the posts that hold the plate, and you can get voltage again. Only one post is positive, the other is grounded. You can see which is positive. Look closely, it will be bushed out and insulated so it won't touch the plate. I'm going to test this with a volt meter when I get up and running. This is a good thing to know, like say if you are out in Picnic Cove and you don't get any charging. It might save the day. I stole Rigs' photo to show which I mean. A word of caution when picking up your stuff from one of these shops. They like you now, so they will talk till dinner. Allow extra time for this. Russ
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" Last edited by lat 64; 01-24-2009 at 12:07 AM. Reason: John Deere, not John Deehr |
#13
IP: 68.104.69.129
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ALT Shops
Hey Lat...
You forgot the part about bringing a small ice chest with cans of domestic beer with you when you pick up. |
#14
IP: 206.125.176.3
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different areas mean different beers!
Down here in Southern Maryland, those beers are 10 oz. Budweisers.
Except when you take your stuff to the local Mennonites..they don't drink, but their repaired starters & alternators usually outlast the engine. This is an excellent thread. Thank you, I am printing it out now and adding to my engine folder.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#15
IP: 68.173.39.97
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We fried the alternator diodes on my friends boat which I took to a rebuild shop in Annapolis. It was not cheap at $250 but the rebuilt unit was unrecognizable and looked like new. Lesson learned: do not connect the batteries in reverse pin order.
I can't remember the name of the place but it was as described above, in a desolate industrial part of the town. I think it was between Rt. 665 and 450 and the place was likely near the intersection of Legion and George Aves. It was not cheap but they did do a pretty amazing job cleaning up the old alternator and replaced the burned out diodes and it is still working two years later. Good luck. |
#16
IP: 63.239.69.1
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A brand-new 55A alternator from Moyer's catalog only costs $193, so there's no way I'd pay even $100 for a fix to my ancient 35A version.
If I can't get a fix for less, I'm just going to upgrade to the 55A. |
#17
IP: 69.162.193.200
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thinking positve
Calebd,
You probably got good work for your money. I bet it was all corroded up like mine. My mounting bolt was so stuck in the casing the that the rebuilder said he used heat and magic juice to get it loose. All in a day's work for him but impossible for me. He said he could sell me a new one(35 amp) for $160, so he said he wouldn't rebuild it if it got too expensive. Our alternators are relatively cheap compared to cars. Modern auto alternators are very specific to the make and model of car, and they have sophisticated circuits that interact with the ECM on the car. I heard that the alternator for a Volkswagon New Beetle is around $1,000. Lesson; don't jump start your post 1991 car EVER! On that note, there is hope for us jump starters. I have heard of a thingy you can buy that is a inline retrofit isolation diode. But I will do a little more checking before I make too many claims. Charge ahead, Russ
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#18
IP: 74.66.229.198
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Addendum to alt. rebuild
At the time my friend decided to have his alternator rebuilt for his Universal M35 (?) engine we had priced a number of 'marine' alternators' that cost anywhere from $500 - $800. I can't remember the amperage of the alternator (probably close to 90amps on an Endeavor 32') and I suspect that the prices I was getting on the web were a bit high.
I read a bit in the Nigel Caulder book (Elec. & Mechanical ...) that alternators are actually a bit different for marine applications. I have come to the conclusion that this is mostly marketing as how many of us drive our cars (which have alternators) on rainy, snowy and salt laden roads? In retrospect the rebuild shop did a fantastic job and kept a hunk of metal and wire from hitting the recycling heap. I would do it again but not if it was my easier to replace A4 35 amp alternator. As for marine alternators being cheaper then automotive I do not recollect it that way. Of course the new VW Beetle (my niece had one) might have a very specific alternator that fit under one of the hoods in some manner. I have jumped a bunch of different vehicles from my 1998 Honda Accord: 2001 Toyota Land Cruncher, 2003 Lexus ES 300, 2003 BMW/Mini Cooper and have had no real problems to report (the Lexus is having problems warming up though). My 5 speed Accord seems just fine though. I do have some philosophical issues with all the engineering that goes into these newer cars though. Even on my own Honda it can take nearly an hour to figure out how to replace the headlamp on the passengers side while the drivers side is done in 5 minutes or less. Because of access/engineering 'advances' it now takes a rocket scientist to do simple routine maintenance on many vehicles. My sister's Lexus owner's manual says that to replace the headlamp bulb you must take it to a licensed Lexus dealer. I took her car to my local repair shop and it took them nearly an hour (and these were professionals) to replace one headlight bulb. I just wonder about all these 'engineering' breakthroughs that make routine maintenance nearly impossible for the average Joe to do. I could say that it is the law of unintended consequences but I suspect that it is more likely a marketing/revenue stream generating policy of theirs. Thankfully my boat engine is an Atomic 4 and does not require a degree in advanced brain surgery to change the engine oil. I may still need some proficiency as a contortionist to access my stuffing box but at least I have the tools to do so. It is only 29 F in NYC. How cold is it in AK? |
#19
IP: 69.162.193.147
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"marine" alternators
I came real close to ordering an alternator for my A-4 from Don, but the shipping, the rusted bolt, and the fun trip to the wrong side of town to spend my stimulus package locally tipped the balance. I agree with you that it's good not to waste the resources of an old alt. when you can rebuild them. That's part of why I got mine done over.
All things being equal, marine electrical stuff is more expensive because of corrosion issues and spark isolation and low production numbers. But our old A-4 alternators and starters are cheaper to rebuild, I feel, because they don't have proprietary integrated circuits for specific applications like in the new cars. I do jump start my newer cars, but I have paid for it, so I never recommend it. A voltage spike can kill those ICs in the alternator, and then it's off to the store for another. My 91 Toyota Camry got toasted this way and the rebiuld was about $250. This is why I think it's so cool to have that isolation diode in the plate with the positive terminal on our old motorolas. I have a 97 Honda, and I love to work on it(in a relative way). But, I could not do a thing without the factory manual. The auto parts store manuals are just firestarter compared to the real deal from the factory. Knowledge is power, and the Honda books are awesome! but, I digress, Russ
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#20
IP: 142.68.108.60
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Marinized alternators
This is going to sound all preachy, but personally I came to the conclusion that I would stick to marinized alternators. A properly marinized alternator is explosion resistant, resists corrosion and I think is built to better handle continuous duty in a boat. A boat's engine space is much tougher on parts than a car's.
Regulatory authorities in Canada and the US prefer marinized (ignition-protected) alternators. For example: "USCG Boating Safety Circular 64 (Dec 86) one of the reasons you don’t use automotive parts is this example: 'Alternators. A standard automotive alternator has exposed electrical contacts that can create sparks and ignite fuel vapors in the engine room. On marine alternators, which must meet the ignition protection requirements in §183.410(a), the contacts are sealed inside.'” http://www.auxguidanceskills.info/press/cgapproved.html. "Boom Up She Went" is a 2005 instructional video used by Transport Canada to teach the importance of ignition protected parts on boats, based on a recreational boater's experience with explosion: http://www.tc.gc.ca/publications/EN/...R/TP14477E.PDF
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1974 C&C 27 |
#21
IP: 69.162.193.167
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sparks
Rigs is right. I hope nobody thought we were suggesting using a car alternator. That'd be just wrong. We were just discussing why they can be cheaper sometimes and pricey other times.
On that note, the guy who rebuilt my starter(delco) said that only the back end was sealed and the front(gear end) was not. He indicated this is not always the case with marine starters. I suppose gas fumes would have to build up in the flywheel housing and reach proper mixture to go boom. I guess Universal thought this was not very likely. Food for thought though. Russ p.s. if anyone in D.C. sees our Governor, please send her home. Try Neimen Marcus or the The Madison.
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#22
IP: 76.106.5.221
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I found a nice little shop in Baltimore that looks like it's going to be perfect. It's called Allied Starter & Alternator, on US 1 just south of the Baltimore beltway.
I found them with the Yahoo Yellow Pages under "auto electric" for Baltimore, called them on Saturday and dropped the alternator off this afternoon. It was a classic old shop, three middle-aged guys in it, and they knew instantly what my alternator was all about. We chatted about boats, alternators, gel batteries, "Hart interfaces ", and the like for about ten minutes, until they started locking up the place. The guy actually taking my information said it'll probably need a rebuild, which would cost $175 and be as good as new. I mentioned that I can get a new, 55 amp alternator to replace this 35 amp alternator for $193, and he said something like "Oh, this will be a 55 amp alternator when I'm done." I know nothing about alternators, so I asked him specifically if he'd said "It will be a 55 amp alternator after being rebuilt," and he said it would be. So that sounds like a good deal, I save $18 and shipping (sorry, Don -- but I've got lots of other stuff I want to order) and get an upgraded alternator to boot. I'll keep you all posted as to how things work out. |
#23
IP: 24.34.161.29
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Quote:
Dana Marblehead |
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