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  #51   IP: 107.0.6.150
Old 08-27-2015, 10:36 PM
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You need a mega garage sale - make room for more A4 parts and goodies.
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  #52   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 08-30-2015, 08:12 PM
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but lots of boat bits in there too Hanley!

Camping gear.. stuff from 3 teens... me... I think there is a nook not used in the back though!

Had an initial test measurement of the "lash" today - the space between the liters and valves when each cylinder is TDC if I have the meaning of "lash" correct...

(drum roll please....)

E1: 0
I1: 0

I2: 0
E2: 0

E3: 0
I3: 0

I4: 0.011
E4: 0

TADA!

I'll do another run and see where I get and make sure I am measuring at the correct time in the sequence. I have no idea if this engine was ever "run" like this or was in the process of being worked on and these were temp settings by the PO^2. Either way I am not going to worry too much about it until after I get the valves out and cleaned up.

What is the best way to clean the valves?
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  #53   IP: 107.0.6.150
Old 08-30-2015, 08:17 PM
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Question

I gotta ask. Are you sure you were at the top of the compression stroke for each cylinder?
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  #54   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 08-30-2015, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
I gotta ask. Are you sure you were at the top of the compression stroke for each cylinder?
I am not sure of anything at this point! One of the many reasons I want to measure it all over again... and again and... to make sure I have it correct

I am hoping I have it wrong LOL
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  #55   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 08-30-2015, 10:42 PM
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OK. Since you have the head off, the pistons are easily visible. Sometimes it is not so easy to tell if a piston is at the top of it's exhaust stroke or the top of it's compression stroke. Starting with number one at the top of it's stroke check the valve lash. Then rotate the engine counterclockwise until #1 is at the top again. Check lash on #1's valves again. See if you get some clearance. One of those two is going to give correct clearances. If you don't get any clearance on both tries you know the valves are way too tight. Once you are sure you have #1 at top of compression stroke, the rest will be easy to do in firing order.
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  #56   IP: 97.73.48.123
Old 08-31-2015, 06:51 AM
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Greg,

Watch the valves open and close as you rotate the engine counterclockwise. TDC on any cylinder is the time the piston in that cylinder is at the very top of its travel after the intake valve (the larger valve) in that cylinder has closed. If you set the first cylinder at the flywheel end of the engine at TDC, you can rotate the engine a half turn counterclockwise to bring each subsequent cylinder in the firing order to TDC. Firing order is: 1, 2, 4, & 3. Don

Last edited by Don Moyer; 08-31-2015 at 07:10 AM.
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  #57   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 08-31-2015, 05:23 PM
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oil condition

well took the oil pan off today.. remember the cracked one?

here are some pics of the crack:

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  #58   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 08-31-2015, 05:33 PM
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engine insides

Here are some pics of the inside of the engine after the oil pan came off.

here's NEWBY question for you... is stringy/ropey oil a good thing or a bad thing? Also this stuff has coated things here and there.

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Nasty looking oil filter with obvious signs of water, but as far as I can tell not of lot of other signs of water in the engine..a wee patina of rust on the cam shaft... but overall I have no idea what caused the crack in the oil pan.


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Attachment 11065

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Inside the oil pan. The crack is at the far right, right along the cross bracing.
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What is the best way to clean the oil out?
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  #59   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 08-31-2015, 08:25 PM
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I wouldn't bother. New oil pan is indicated here. There are plenty of loose ones around.
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  #60   IP: 72.38.49.109
Old 09-02-2015, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
I wouldn't bother. New oil pan is indicated here. There are plenty of loose ones around.
PHEW!

Marina just told me they have a full/complete A4 in a storage bin I can have for $150!

(guess I need that garage sale now )


So now the thought crosses my mind - once I go see this other engine ( is this considered "cheating" on my first engine?), if it looks good and complete I guess I should go through the water jacket pressure tests and compression tests, etc to see if the engine is in better condition than the one I have mostly torn down now. Use the one in poorer condition as the spares. Sound like the right track?

Last edited by GregH; 09-02-2015 at 08:51 PM. Reason: thoughts
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  #61   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 09-07-2015, 07:34 PM
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Parts engine

Had a look at the other engine for parts this weekend. It's missing the carb but the rest of it is there.

I was wondering if this one was in better condition than the one that is partial torn down. The marina owner told me the reason it was removed was that the owner forgot to winterize it the previous winter and they think the block is cracked somewhere. The oil pan (which is the part I really need) is in fine condition and the engine still has oil in it- without any water infiltration into the oil.

I did a dry compression test on each cyl and the highest was maybe 30... which kinda confirms the diagnosis in my mind

Haven't tried the coil or other parts... but it gives me replacement parts

The pics are from my cell, so sorry the quality.

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  #62   IP: 166.137.244.87
Old 09-07-2015, 08:02 PM
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Talking Transmission looks to be in better shape than mine! Can i have it??

That transmission looks to be in better shape than mine.

Did you buy this? engine for parts?

Can I ask you to ship me parts (as of now the transmission)? lol

FYI been following your rebuild. Learned a lot from it BUT hoping i don't have to do one soon.
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  #63   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 10-11-2015, 07:42 PM
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Red face Gobble gobble

Happy CANADIAN Thanksgiving all!

work has been slow on the engine, doing bilge repairs in the boat and the usual life with 3 teens in the house!

Have been looking at the water pump and have come to learn it's the 202M3 version - so have many people upgraded the cam to the M7 version as Don suggests? And how has that worked out?

The PO did not have any filter inline for the raw water intake so I'll be adding a Groco ARG750 that I picked up for a good price. I do also want to put in line the "T" fitting so I can winterize easily and not undo hose clamps, etc each time.

*What fittings have people used? (like Groco TWV-750?)

* I guess it doesn't really matter if the "T" goes in before or after the strainer.. wherever there is room?

PS. I have the new oil pan from the other engine!
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  #64   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 10-11-2015, 08:27 PM
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Greg,
Sounds like you got a good deal on that engine! Now you can start shopping eBay for a spare carb. Personally, I've got two - the latest one I bought is a 5 bolt model that cost me $35.
As for the water pump upgrade, the M7 cam is a good thing. However, you have to consider what you're upgrading. These pumps DO wear out to the point that a new shaft and seals don't fix them. No sense in upgrading a worn pump.
I put up with leaky water pumps for years, changing shafts and seals, and living with the sea water leaking from the pump. No problem - there's plenty more sea water where that came from. Situation changed when I added the heat exchanger. Then I was leaking glycol coolant, which only slightly less serious than leaking blood. Ended up installing the new ball bearing pump, and all is good.
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  #65   IP: 173.79.39.48
Old 10-12-2015, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
... I guess it doesn't really matter if the "T" goes in before or after the strainer.. wherever there is room? ...
I'd put it before the strainer. This makes it easier to winterize the strainer, and leaves the strainer in the path if you have to use the T intake as an emergency bilge pump.
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  #66   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 10-12-2015, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Schober View Post
Greg,
Sounds like you got a good deal on that engine! Now you can start shopping eBay for a spare carb. Personally, I've got two - the latest one I bought is a 5 bolt model that cost me $35.
As for the water pump upgrade, the M7 cam is a good thing. However, you have to consider what you're upgrading. These pumps DO wear out to the point that a new shaft and seals don't fix them. No sense in upgrading a worn pump.
I have never seen this engine running so I have no idea about the overall pump condition. I have it apart and as far as I can tell the parts look good and not glaringly worn.

I haven't had a good look at the parts engine water pump.. that's on my list next.
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  #67   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 10-12-2015, 04:57 PM
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Talking Ohhhhhh HAAAAAANLEY!!!

Remember your comment back in post #51??

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75% done... the bikes and lift are going and then cleaning up the workbench there on the left and some shelves for parts...
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  #68   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 10-12-2015, 07:08 PM
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Thumbs up

Heh heh....you're hooked
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  #69   IP: 66.102.86.73
Old 10-14-2015, 06:31 PM
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T Fittings

ok.. maybe I'm just THAT lazy... and maybe I'm just that dense...

I'm trying to find on here how and what people used to make their T fittings in their raw water intake for flushing/winterizing. I have done searches and have found mentions. I understand the concept but did people simply use brass parts from the local big box store? Or did people source out bronze?

Does anyone have pics of their set up?


It's the simple things that sometimes stymie me

ok... found what I was looking for! http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...g+hose+fitting

Last edited by GregH; 10-14-2015 at 07:27 PM. Reason: didn't dig deep enough
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  #70   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 10-15-2015, 09:32 AM
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I used hardware store brass fittings comprised of:

1/2" ball valve hose bibb
3/8" Tee
3/8" street ell
3/8" close nipple (2)
1/2"-3/8" threaded bushing
The original hose adapter is reused on the Tee

A remnant of old garden hose just long enough to reach the bilge threads on to the hose bibb and it can be placed in a 5 gallon bucket on the cabin sole filled with fresh water, diluted muriatic acid, anti-freeze for those who winterize or whatever.

Some suffer sphincter pucker over the slightest mention of plain brass fittings but I've had this arrangement for many years without a single problem.
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  #71   IP: 184.144.135.51
Old 08-06-2017, 10:28 AM
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There is life!

It's been a couple of years and the engine was put on the back burner while I worked on other aspects of the refit (and time & $). Last month I picked up a working engine and have the one from this post as spare parts. It will be installed this Wed.

Did my first carb cleaning.. what a difference that makes! 😊

Now... how does one test to see whether it is the sender or the gauge not working?
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  #72   IP: 72.194.218.136
Old 08-06-2017, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
Now... how does one test to see whether it is the sender or the gauge not working?
Water temp, oil pressure, fuel leveling in the tank?

TRUE GRIT
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  #73   IP: 184.144.135.51
Old 08-06-2017, 03:49 PM
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The tach not moving at all. The water temp was working before I git the pump to prime on it's own... as in the engine heated up fast with no water flow. With new impeller and the 5 minutes of idling no change on gauge (hours later with engjne cooldd off)- so maybe I'm just not giving it enough time to warm up ? Oil pressure looks like it is reading as is voltage gauge. No fuel gauge yet.
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Old 08-06-2017, 07:10 PM
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Water temp gauge and connecting wiring can be checked by very briefly shorting the sender post to ground with the engine running and a helper watching the gauge. If the gauge pegs those two (gauge and wiring) can be assumed functional.

As for the tach, assuming it senses coil pulse from the small '-' post, check for 12V+ voltage top the gauge and the integrity of the wire between the gauge and coil. If your boat is a Catalina (sorry, I don't recall) look for deteriorated Medallion 'gummy bear' plugs in the wiring harness.
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