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  #26   IP: 69.142.179.87
Old 10-07-2015, 04:21 PM
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A few years back I needed to drill out alot of screws for a glass and aluminum railing. To cut down the workload I ordered several left handed bits. They cut in in a counterclockwise rotation.
The advantage being that the heat and torque of drilling, stepping up through s everial bit sizes, caused many of the bolts to loosen un enough during the drilling process that some of them did not require an easy out and those that did came out much easier.

Now, when needing to drill out a bolt, I make a poi t of us I g the reverse twist bits for my first few steps.
And let not forget generous amounts od on blaster.
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JimF (10-08-2015)
  #27   IP: 159.108.3.19
Old 10-13-2015, 08:27 AM
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Job done! Thanks for all the advice -

Two of the cut off bolts came out nicely with an easy-out after being drilled all the way through. The third would not come, and I had to keep stepping up in drill bit size and tried several different easy-out varieties until I got alarmingly close to the threads. This is where a left handed drill bit would have come in handy (which I could not find any where, and will now order online (who has them?).
The remains of the screw eventually spun with the drill out the back of the coupler hole and had to be serially turned and cut off (several steps until I could get the entire carcass of the bolt out. There is not much room behind the coupler and the whole bolt could not come out, so it had to be spun a few threads, cut from behind then spun some more and cut some more. All the while contorted like a pretzel down in the bilge. But I did get the whole thing out and was able to thread in a new bolts in all three holes so no issues with the threads in the old output coupler. The boat is now tucked away for the winter, shaft, re-packed stuffing box and new cutlass bearing will be re-installed next spring.
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  #28   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 10-13-2015, 08:34 AM
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Two of the cut off bolts came out nicely with an easy-out after being drilled all the way through. The third would not come, and I had to keep stepping up in drill bit size and tried several different easy-out varieties until I got alarmingly close to the threads. This is where a left handed drill bit would have come in handy (which I could not find any where, and will now order online (who has them?).
The remains of the screw eventually spun with the drill out the back of the coupler hole and had to be serially turned and cut off (several steps until I could get the entire carcass of the bolt out. There is not much room behind the coupler and the whole bolt could not come out, so it had to be spun a few threads, cut from behind then spun some more and cut some more. All the while contorted like a pretzel down in the bilge. But I did get the whole thing out and was able to thread in a new bolts in all three holes so no issues with the threads in the old output coupler. The boat is now tucked away for the winter, shaft, re-packed stuffing box and new cutlass bearing will be re-installed next spring.
Good work. Couple of loose ends: make sure you clean and oil the surface of the output coupling and it wouldn't hurt to match the new shaft coupling up to it for a trial fit to make sure all is set. Check for distortions since you have been working around it. Also, have you planned your new set up so as to give you more room to slide the shaft aft and have better access?
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  #29   IP: 159.108.3.19
Old 10-13-2015, 09:29 AM
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new stuffing box

I did get a new stuffing box assembly. the metal parts are about an inch shorter and I can cut the hose down to gain another inch as well, so I should end up with about two extra inches which I hope will be enough.

I did not attempt to mate up the new shaft coupler with the output side but I did soak the coupler real good with Sili Kroil before I covered the boat for the winter. The boat is now hibernating in Maine (I live in Conn) for the winter, further work will have to wait until spring.
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  #30   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 10-13-2015, 11:13 AM
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I did get a new stuffing box assembly. the metal parts are about an inch shorter and I can cut the hose down to gain another inch as well, so I should end up with about two extra inches which I hope will be enough.

I did not attempt to mate up the new shaft coupler with the output side but I did soak the coupler real good with Sili Kroil before I covered the boat for the winter. The boat is now hibernating in Maine (I live in Conn) for the winter, further work will have to wait until spring.
Nice. I hope you will continue this very interesting thread in the spring.
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  #31   IP: 159.108.1.17
Old 04-19-2016, 08:56 AM
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Rusty coupler replaced, new stuffing box and cutlass bearing!

I well I finally got back to the boat now that Maine is iced out, and things went back together nicely. Not without some swearing as the output and shaft coupler did not line up the first time. I then removed the shaft coupler from the shaft and bolted it to the output coupler. I let the stuffling box ride free and slid the shaft back up to the coupler, it had to be coaxed all the way in with a rubber mallet but it went in and I believe without being misaligned.

Took the opportunity to replace the delrin rudder bearing because the rudder had to be dropped to move the shaft in and out and also shim the rudder head a bit. Feeling good about getting this project done.
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  #32   IP: 96.50.120.32
Old 04-19-2016, 01:54 PM
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Jim, Really enjoyed following your post as I also have a Ranger 29 so I know what you must have been up against. I could feel your pain as I know how you would have had to twist yourself into an upside down pretzel to get near to the work area. Then there is the problem of trying to back yourself up and out. Nice job done.

Chuck
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  #33   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 04-19-2016, 02:47 PM
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Thumbs up Nice Job!

You have accomplished everything you set out to do. Now you have good working room for adjustment. Love those split couplings.
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  #34   IP: 75.172.52.86
Old 01-02-2020, 12:30 AM
DDO DDO is offline
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About to go through this on my Ranger 29...

I'm really dreading the big spring haulout, but you survived so I guess I will too. My Ranger 29 has that same look of rusty hunk with no room for servicing the stuffing box... just like your photo! So after ignoring that area for 12 years, I'll be adding this into the 2020 haulout. I'd been told the rudder can stay, sigh; guess not. And so on. The new split coupling from Moyer is my Christmas present. I have to do all work myself as there is no one here who will go near my Atomic 4 and so far I've kept a great runnin' boat! So, if you see this, let's stay in touch and I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the very useful thread!
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  #35   IP: 74.88.0.97
Old 01-02-2020, 02:36 AM
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DDO - I would try to liberally douse the whole thing w/ PB Blaster several times over a few weeks, not forgetting to tap with a hammer each time. If there is any head left at all on the 3 coupling bolts, I would 1st try wrenching them off, should that fail - vice grips, and if all else fails - drill them out - in that order. You may be surprised. Mine came out easily after PB treatment.
God Speed.
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  #36   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 01-02-2020, 07:58 AM
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Is there any room above and forward in the engine space to move the engine forward a little to gain stuffing box room when the job is finished? Even if it means modifying the galley steps and a longer shaft?
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