What are the most common oil leak points?

[RobH2]

Ha, that's what I was thinking. I was embarrassed to mention that here for fear of users telling me how "bad" an idea that would be...lol...

I was just at the boat and I used some solvent to wipe the crack and get it really clean. I wanted to see if it was weeping oil without the engine running. If it's not weeping, I was going to try an engine crack repair epoxy. J-B Weld is one but there are others.

My thought was that if the crack was weeping, nothing would ever stick. But, if it's not weeping, I'd wire brush the crack, clean it and then put a patch on it. It might just stop or slow it until the fall so I'd not lose use of the boat this summer.

My main issue is my son is getting married this fall and we have a huge wedding bill. I can't afford to drop a lot of money into my engine right now. I'm hoping I can patch this crack and have it last until, like you say, "the Full Monty."

[Tim]

Watching the video, it looks like the crack runs up the back of the oil pan to the lower bolt hole for the rear flange and that is causing oil to leak around the lower flange bolt. You can try to seal the crack, but if the crack starts at that lower bolt it will be difficult to stop it from leaking around the bolt. In this case tightening the bolt would make the leak worse. If you can get the crack sealed, maybe installing the lower bolt with a lot of thread sealant or some type of caulking would help.

[RobH2]

I've hard is it to pull that rear flange off? I think you are talking about the part with the 6 bolts. I'd like to have a look at it. Can I do what with the boat in the water and the shaft attached?

[Tim]

Yes, the rear flange is the part with six bolts. There are actually two parts, the one closest to the engine holds the thrust bearing and the outer one holds the rear oil seal. The three upper bolts attach to the reversing gear housing, the three lower bolts attach to the oil pan. To remove the flange, the output coupling does need to be removed. You may be able to do this with the engine in place if you have room to work. There is a good description of how to remove the output coupling in the Moyer manual.

[RobH2]

Thank you Tim. I'll have a look at it. I have very little room is my only problem. Let me see what I can find out.

I'd like to pull it off and see if the crack extends to the bolt hole as was mentioned. I hope not but that seems likely as to how the crack started.

I hate to jury rig a patch but I just can't afford to pull the engine right now and we've had great air this year. I don't want to lose use of the boat.

[Tim]

It sounds like you are going to need to pull the engine to get the rear flange off and inspect/seal the crack. At that point you may as well replace the oil pan or have it repaired. If you had the parts on hand, that could be done in a weekend.

[RobH2]

Yep, I hear you. I need to start wrapping my head around it.

[Tim]

On the bright side, it is not the "engine killer" you were worried about.

[RobH2]

I hear you Tim. Thanks. I'll report back what I decide to do.

[joe_db]

Not a lot of $$$$, just a big pain. One does wonder why that would crack?

[RobH2]

I wonder also. It's most unfortunate...lol... well, it's really not a laughing matter.

I've already been looking online about how to hoist it out. I think I could do the work in my sole of my boat and not have to move it very far. If I do, I'll wait till late fall to do when when I'm not sailing. Then it can take me all winter if I want. I'm going to try to patch it and get me through the summer.

If I win the lottery I'll just order a new one and let Moyer put it in...I see the engine prices on the site but I don't see what installation might cost. I'm guessing 1/2 as much as the motor with transport.

[RobH2]

I think I have some encouraging news and learned a lesson to not pull the fire alarm until you see flames.

I cleaned up the area around the crack and then got my video scope in place. After starting the engine, I could see that oil was dripping out, not in the crack, but around the lowest bolt.
I think I just have a rear seal leak. That's much, much better news. I looked in the Moyer Repair Manual and it really doesn't show or talk much about how to replace that seal that I could find.

What I'd really like to see is an exploded view of that procedure and the parts so I can get an idea of what's involved. I'll search here for posts that talk about it. Likely there is a good one somewhere. I have practically no room to work in that area but hope I can do this without lifting the engine of pulling the boat out of the water.

Here's a new video showing the drip. Sorry for the quality but my camera is Harbor Freight quality and aside from that, it's hard to control it.

https://vimeo.com/349197977/305d4be89d

EDIT:

I found Don's PDF that talks about the job. I still want to find an exploded view or something so I can wrap my head around what's what. Regardless, Don's directions are great to have.

Anyone want to rent me some tools? Output coupling holding tool (TOOL_07_136) / Output coupling puller (TOOL_06_135) / Output coupling installing tool (TOOL_08_137) I hate to spend $150 on tools I'll use once. Still, cheaper than having someone come do it, I know...

[Tim]

Good to hear that the crack is not leaking. That lower bolt extends into the oil pan and oil can leak around the bolt itself. If the rear oil seal were leaking, the oil should be running down from the center of the flange. You can try sealing around that lower flange bolt with thread sealant or locktite. You will first need to drain the oil, remove the bolt and clean up as much oil from the area as you can to increase the chance of success with the thread sealant.

Also, there is still a chance that the oil is leaking around that bolt because of the crack that appears to start at the bolt hole. Even with that, you still may be able to seal it and get through the season.

[Peter]

Tech tip video

I highly recommend the tech tip video for this job

https://moyermarine.com/product/video-tech-tip-oilsealwindows_clip_01_568/https://moyermarine.com/product/video-tech-tip-oilsealwindows_clip_01_568/

There is a Mac version as well.

Show you exactly what to do, explains typical hiccups, etc.

Best,

Peter

[RobH2]

Thank you Peter. That looks great. I need to do a better job finding these assets on the site on my own.