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Old 12-16-2011, 09:15 PM
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Alternator diagrams

I stumbled across a pretty good alternator treatment including connection diagrams for a variety of styles.

http://www.arcomarine.com/xhtml/Tech...tor%20tips.pdf
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:34 PM
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I don't feel like thinking right now, so, is my Delco Remy 10Si (po install) up to snuff?

p.s. I'm vigilant about sniff testing engine compartment before starting engine.
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpian0923 View Post
I don't feel like thinking right now, so, is my Delco Remy 10Si (po install) up to snuff?
Yes but only if it has the visible screen on the back.
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:57 PM
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Doesn't. It's a $50 alternator from O'Reilly auto parts.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:12 PM
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Then it's a pure automotive alternator and not ignition protected, sorry. The screen's function is the aforementioned ignition protection.
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Last edited by ndutton; 12-17-2011 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:30 PM
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It's probably been in there for years, with no problems. I'll have to stay vigilant about leaking fuel. I am though. From gas tank to manifold intake I've rebuilt or replaced everything.

All I can smell is burnt oil (which I like).
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:00 AM
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Did he say wahzoo?

Besides safety, my concern for you is the chance that some insurance actuary gets a bug up his wahzoo or Heaven forbid you have a loss that is denied coverage after the fact because of it. Sometimes we have to protect ourselves against our paid protectors.

Note that starters are required to have the same protection.
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:24 AM
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Appreciate the concern. Ok, what alternator would you recommend to replace what I have? (if you have the time)

I'm a day sailor with 2 group 24 DP batteries and an AC inverter running some 120v Christmas lights around the length of the lifeline, and about 36 feet of 120v white rope lighting around the inside of the cabin. Some nights we have movie night on the boat and run a laptop, VGA monitor, 2 companion speakers and a 2 terabyte external hard drive. Engine at WOT is at 1900 rpm, at cruise, 1500.

I want to be safe, secure and responsible.
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:37 AM
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Bruddah, you've asked a real hot-button question. Ask three sailors and you'll get four answers.

Here's what I think:
  1. A general rule of thumb is a 4:1 ratio of battery capacity to alternator size.
  2. From your description your needs exceed the norm, I'd go as big as space allows both in batteries and alternator.
  3. I feel larger alternators consistently run at a lower percentage of their capacity than the smaller ones. This translates into easier operation. Note that alternator size has little to do with load on the engine. It's the battery bank's need that determines load.
  4. What really matters is your assessment, not mine. Are you happy with the performance of your O'Reilly Special? If so, why not get the same thing except with the required ignition protection?
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:49 AM
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So far it's fine. With engine off I can run the inverter fully loaded for quite awhile. If the inverter warns me, I run the engine for awhile and all is well.

But, like I said, I'm just a day sailor (actually a night sailor) right now. That might change. I want to be prepared.

Would it make sense to get the Moyer 120 amp or 55 amp, or stay with what I got? I want to do what's right for the boat. Money no matter.
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:59 AM
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Trick question

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpian0923 View Post
Would it make sense to get the Moyer 120 amp or 55 amp, or stay with what I got?
Dunno what you've got but I will say this: when it comes to alternators I think bigger is better.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:13 AM
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Thanks Neil.
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:28 PM
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Why can't Jim just get the screen (and any other needed protection) added by an alternator shop? If his alt is in good shape, and big enough for his needs, this would seem to be the most economical and functional route.
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:49 PM
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Very possible Ed,

I'm not certain the screen is all that's done to meet the standard but you're right, an alternator shop knowledgeable in marine installations could say for sure.

Jim, I know it's a drive for you but Lewco Electric on 16th Street in Costa Mesa has been the go-to shop in Newport Beach for at least 4 decades. I had them dyno test my 10si alternator (free) and add a tachometer tap ($20).

The property they occupy has quite a history in local boatbuilding and as an added bonus they're about 5 blocks from Minney's.
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:56 AM
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I love Newport Beach. One of my favorite places on earth. I like taking the car ferry from Balboa Island to Harbor Island. It's a great "first date" location!

For now, things are working well for me (using a car alternator). When I upgrade, I'd probably go bigger, and go marine grade. If only for the piece of mind...I'm assuming marine grade means better (I'm sure it does) quality.

I'm sure people like to knock products labelled "marine" and "boat" but there is something to be said for "tinned" wire and "gold plated" hardware.

Thanks guys, very helpfull.

p.s. I did fully test my setup tonight. Alternator got hot while running "everything" but not hot enough to burn my fingers.
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Last edited by jpian0923; 12-18-2011 at 02:00 AM.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:57 AM
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This thread from earlier this year addresses alternator temperature directly:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5360
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:05 PM
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Nice thread.

I run the inverter off one battery. When it's time to charge, should I switch to charge both batteries? Will the alternator see this as a higher average voltage and work less hard?
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:33 PM
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Yep. (10 character minimum)
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:33 AM
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Tried it tonight. Seemed to work. The only data I have is the change in RPM when switching from one battery to both batteries during charging. Thanks Neil.

Clarification: When charging the single depleted battery, rpms were low (alt working hard). When switched to single fully charged battery rpm went up (alt not working hard). When switched to both, seemed like rpms were somewhere in the middle of the two. Strange though...tach (mechanical) went out at some point. Have to check the linkage on that. Was judging by ear at this point.
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Last edited by jpian0923; 12-19-2011 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:11 AM
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Make sure your battery switch is a make before break style..you do not want the alternator to see 'no' load at any time..it can ruin it. Most switches are built this way..if the lights stay on (i.e, don't flicker), when you switch batteries, you're probably OK.

I also think it is a good idea to only switch the batteries around when the engine is at idle. I am not sure how the alt. likes those sudden changes in load when it is spinning at a few thousand RPM...this is just a personal opinion though.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:28 AM
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Yeah Jim,
The RPM behavior you report is exactly right. The alternator load on the engine is what causes it. In a way you can use your ears as a seat of the pants indicator of battery state of charge.
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:24 AM
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I'm assuming make before break battery switch. When I was "green" I messed with the switch, turning it to "off" (momentarily) and engine kept running. Had no ill effects from it, that I can tell.
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Last edited by jpian0923; 12-20-2011 at 12:35 AM.
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