Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH
IF... if I find the temp send and gauge are working fine and due to the cold lake I cannot get the temps up over 120, would it be valid to run with the thermostat in AND adjust the bypass valve so more goes through the block? I am assuming that once the thermostat opens, it does block the bypass 100%
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Yes, this is what I do.
Each RWC engine is a bit difference due to the amount of corrosion in the water passages and other factors that affect water flow such as pump output and so on.
My particular engine is happy with a thermostat and a bypass value wide open. The restriction provided by the thermostat and the (wide open) bypass valve + pump output + amount of water passage corrosion ++ all balance each other.
TRUE GRIT
Edit: Do an acid flush and get the water passages as clean as possible.