Fuel pump question ...

[Robs Hubris]

It's probably to late for a diet so think skinny. Wear a long sleeve shirt so you don't tear your arms up. Good lighting and a mirror will also help. You will know you are in the thick of it when you get so dizzy you can't figure out which way is clockwise\counter clockwise to loosen or tighten. Having the correct tools is a big help.
Have fun.

TRUE GRIT

LOL ... way too late my friend (for the thin thing) I am a fairly non-mechanical guy who's owned this beast for over 10 years now ... I've learned to rebuild water/exhaust systems, replace impellers and more.

I'm going to give it the old college try and engage a mechanic if I'm not up to it. I'll drop the end of the story in here when I know it.

thanks all for thoughtful advice and experience,
rob

[JOHN COOKSON]

Maybe a procedure I used when I replaced the water pump a few months ago will help. Maybe not.

Twist a stud into the hardest to reach hole finger tight. If you don't have a stud buy a bolt and cut the head off. Slide the pump onto the stud. Tighten the bolt into the other hole tight enough so the pump does not move when the stud is removed. Twist the stud out and twist the bolt into the hole finger tight. Loosen the other bolt to finger tight then torque both bolts down evenly.

TRUE GRIT

[Robs Hubris]

My report:

Checked ball valve on current facet pump ... seemed ok.
Checked the OP switch, OK.
Problem still occurred as before
Replace Facet pump with new ... same.
Called mechanic.

Thanks again, I learned a ton I didn't know about my A4,

cheers,
Rob

[roadnsky]

Rob-
With power to the Facet, can you hear it "clicking"?

[ndutton]

Please try filling the tank to the top again and test. Based on this:

I did fill, nearly fill, the gas tank recently. But the engine ran fine for a couple of outings before the current problem appeared

I have a sneaky suspicion you have a hole in the pickup tube inside the tank. If it runs on a full tank that seals the deal.

[tenders]

My guess is now a sticking float valve in the carb, but then I realized we would all be doing a lot less guesswork here if a $20 fuel pressure gauge were installed between the pump and the carb. Could have ruled out the need for the new pump.

Even if you find a competent mechanic to finish this off (which I don’t think you need to do) you’ll save a lot more than $20 of his troubleshooting time with that in place.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Standard procedure for fuel system problem diagnosis is to run off an auxiliary tank and see if the problem goes away.

Please do this next.

There have been lots of diagnostic possibilities mentioned. If we can isolate the problem to the boat's part of the fuel system ( tank, filters, - anything before the fuel pump) or the engine's part of the fuel system (fuel pump, carburetor) we will be able to drill down into the cause of the problem pronto.

By posting the problem on the forum you have already called a mechanic(s).
Why do you need to call another one? No one person has the collective A4 wisdom of this forum.

TRUE GRIT

[Robs Hubris]

Rob-
With power to the Facet, can you hear it "clicking"?

Yes, I think I did hear that Jerry. I didn't make much note of it, but I think so. Diagnostic implications?

[Robs Hubris]

Please try filling the tank to the top again and test. Based on this: I have a sneaky suspicion you have a hole in the pickup tube inside the tank. If it runs on a full tank that seals the deal.

Thanks for the idea ....I searched, briefly for info on the pickup tube and didn't find anything, but it sounds like a likely item to check.

[Robs Hubris]

Standard procedure for fuel system problem diagnosis is to run off an auxiliary tank and see if the problem goes away.

Please do this next.

There have been lots of diagnostic possibilities mentioned. If we can isolate the problem to the boat's part of the fuel system ( tank, filters, - anything before the fuel pump) or the engine's part of the fuel system (fuel pump, carburetor) we will be able to drill down into the cause of the problem pronto.

By posting the problem on the forum you have already called a mechanic(s).
Why do you need to call another one? No one person has the collective A4 wisdom of this forum.

TRUE GRIT

Love the "damn the mechanics" 'tude. And hell yes about the collective wisdom here ... invaluable resource.

I do bring less mechanical skill, and tools, to the party than most of the gang here though. I have a good quality service provider (Colony Marine) so I'm not opposed to it, especially for fuel related issues. (loooong story there ....)

Nothing's scheduled yet though, and there may be a waiting list and I will be at the boat Monday working on the ideas here, we'll see.

The external tank test seems a great idea; not sure how I pull it off, but I'll make it a target, many helpful friends in Michigan Harbor marina may come in play.

and Happy Father's Day to all my fellow dad's out there!

[ndutton]

A different view is it's another item to eliminate and like other tests, simple to accomplish.

[roadnsky]

...Diagnostic implications?

If it's clicking then it has power and is likely working.
It makes a "louder" clicking when first turned on and then as fuel moves thru it the sound becomes muted or dampened.

As others have mentioned the real diagnostic tool is an inline pressure gauge.

The external tank test seems a great idea; not sure how I pull it off...

• Get a gas can. 1 gallon will work but 5 gallon is better.
• Get 2-3 feet of ¼" fuel hose. (Same ID as connected to your carb)

• Disconnect your existing fuel hose from the carb.
Some gas will spill out here but elevate the end of the hose to stop the flow.
(you can also plug it with a bolt)

• Connect the ¼" hose to the carb and put the other end into the gas can.
• ELEVATE the gas can above the carb.
(on your C30 this should be easy)

Now start the engine. The gravity flow should supply enough fuel to overcome not having a fuel pump and keep the engine running.

Do this test and report back. It'll tell us a lot and we can drill down from there.

FWIW, I'm leaning to Neil's idea of the PU tube.

[Robs Hubris]

A different view is it's another item to eliminate and like other tests, simple to accomplish.

Well, it's also wise to know one's limitations .. but thank you.

Mechanics are all booked out for 2 weeks or more and several refuse to work on Atomic 4's, or are reluctant to do so.

Therefore, I am MacGyver and I will continue to work on it with the very kind advice provided here,

Next up, gas tank test.


best,
rob

[Robs Hubris]

Please try filling the tank to the top again and test. Based on this: I have a sneaky suspicion you have a hole in the pickup tube inside the tank. If it runs on a full tank that seals the deal.

Neil: I was rereading all the notes here and noticed that I skipped over your comment about the gas tank

The gas tank IS nearly full ... would that tend to decrease the likelihood of the pickup tube influence? It seems intuitive that it would.

[ndutton]

Yes, a full tank with symptoms persisting suggests the pickup tube is not the cause. The comment that the onset of symptoms was after multiple excursions led me to think of the tube.