Winter rebuild

[Koerk]

Thanks this helps me alot. I am now currently cleaning up all the flanges. i then plan on cutting new gaskets made of rubber solely for the purpose of this test, including a rubber head gasket after repairing the studs and re tourqing of the head. Hope all checks out.

[romantic comedy]

I cant wait to see inside the engine. Something made all that smoke. I am thinking a blown piston.

[Koerk]

Help.

Any recommendations on how to go about trouble shooting this error, the hole is 1/8“ deep. My bit walked off center as I drilled out the broken bolt in my exhaust flange.

I am hoping that I can continue drilling this out as is and then thread it. Since my exhaust flange is corroded beyond saving and has broken in two I could have a new one made up at a local machine shop.

[ndutton]

Have you pressure tested the manifold? There is no point in working on it until you know it is leak free.

However, when drilling out broken bolts we recommend bolting up the mating part to use as a drill guide. Since your flange is broken you'll need a new one anyway so when it arrives - - and if the manifold is proven not to leak - - you can drill it out then.

[Koerk]

Still haven't pressure tested the block yet. All my fittings are on order and I should have them for when I come home from sea in February.

I just took the head off today. It was a marathon of heat, penetrating oil and tapping, tapping and more tapping. I decided to cut the studs for the thermostat housing. A drill press has come available to me so I can confidently remove those when I come home, and tighten every thing back up for the pressure test. Unfortunately I broke the thermostat housing while removing the head so that's a few hundred bucks headed your way Don.

[Al Schober]

What a mess! Tough to believe that was a running engine - or wasn't it??
An Atomic 4 will NOT do this to itself - there's got to be something else going on here. I'd definitely be giving the manifold and the exhaust system the hairy eyeball.
Good news is that at first glance, I didn't see any problems with the engine itself. 4 pistons, look good, check. 8 valves, look good, check.
Now, if we can just figure out the butterscotch jello??

[Koerk]

Now, if we can just figure out the butterscotch jello??

My Bad. That butter scotch jello is some fluid film I applied around the pistons for the night.

[joe_db]

Is this block still usable?????

[Koerk]

Is this block still usable?????

I still have yet to pressure test the cooling system. I already had most of it opened up before learning that I should pressure test the block. Once I clean up the gasket on the head I'll be torquing everything down again for a pressure test to check if the block is still viable.

[thatch]

At this point, since the head is no longer usable for a cooling system pressure test, it would be best to do a complete tear-down of the block. Once the block is bare, you should either pressure wash it or clean it as well as possible and then use compressed air and some soapy water to check suspected areas for cracks or rust-outs. While disassembling things, it's a good idea to inspect each part so that you will have a better idea of what will need to be replaced.
Tom

[edwardc]

Is this block still usable?????

Hard to tell from the photo. If there's any question, you could always get the cylinders sleeved. Just takes $$.��

A good rule of thumb to determine the remaining thickness of the block in general is to examine the lower ends of the head studs that you extracted. Since they protrude into the water jacket, they tend to corrode off flush with the inner surface. This gives you a way to measure the remaining deck thickness. If there are less than three threads left, the block is done.

[Koerk]

Hard to tell from the photo. If there's any question, you could always get the cylinders sleeved. Just takes $$.��

A good rule of thumb to determine the remaining thickness of the block in general is to examine the lower ends of the head studs that you extracted. Since they protrude into the water jacket, they tend to corrode off flush with the inner surface. This gives you a way to measure the remaining deck thickness. If there are less than three threads left, the block is done.

I wish I had photos of the studs to post. I had carefully inspected them All, each stud has 5 to 6 threads left on them I also took some measurements. 13 studs should measure 2.75" after pulling them I measured 2.60", the two studs for the lifting eye, they should measure 2.88", and I measured 2.80"

Taking a break from the rebuild till February as I'm back to sea. I will be ordering a new head from Don to conduct a pressure test when I'm home.

Happy Holidays.

[GridSquare]

Useable?

Looking at your pictures, and it could be very deceiving as well, it really looks like bad news! I perused through your pics and comments and I may have missed it somewhere was this motor a raw water, salt water motor? In my opinion I would be looking for a suitable replacement motor or core and start from there. Ofcourse you are closer to the battle than I am sitting looking at your pictures and posts. I wish you the best in this project; look forward to your updates when you get back at it.

[joe_db]

The thing we can't tell from a photo is if the block is badly corroded and missing a lot of metal - which is what it looks like to me - or if it is gunked up with mud, scale, and algae and that is what is starting to come off. Might be worth hot-tanking it.

[thatch]

GridSquare, Your comments and questions are "spot on" and , by the way, welcome to the forum.
Tom