Just another overhaul thread

[Surcouf]

Hello ,

Are these the original pistons?
Thank you?

[Surcouf]

So today:

- clean all water system: coat hanger, wires, drill bits, pressure washer, garden hose, detergent etc... everything has been used to try to clean between cylinders, all water passages within the block etc... while trying at the same time not put water in the cylinders, in the valves etc... I tried to take as much as I could from the bottom of the block, that had at least 1 inch of gooey mud, pieces of rust etc.. praying that the pressure washer or the coat hanger would not go through the block!
- put plastic bags on the top of the engine and the distributor, and brush all block with detergent, than pressure wash the whole block. Much better!
- then preparation for oil pan-sump removal. This is not in MM manual as a specific procedure if you do not remove the gear box. But pretty evident, at least in theory: remove all bolts on the pan itself, 3 lower ones on the shaft flange, 4 on the flywheel housing that face the front of the engine (front is the gear side), and 2 on the flywheel housing hidden below the sump. That is the theory; but here I discovered that rust behaves like a liquid that deposited all over the block at the bottom of the block below the water plate. I had to chisel it, to be able to separate the sump and the block. Crazy!!! And of course 2 bolts broke, resisted after the use of the stud extractor and will have to be drilled.
- everything looked fine in that sump. Filter was not too dirty, not much crap at the bottom of the sump.

Everything has been sprayed with Mistery Oil to avoid corrosion.

I will prepare a list of questions, among the issues is the distributor (not sure it can be removed), the valves (what should I do with them?) etc .... so a good 6 hours of work for 2 people just for that.

[Surcouf]

Questions on block damages

See below a few pics on what looks like either damages, previous repairs, or simple casting details absolutely normal.

First and last pic are the same from a damaged thread on s stud (the corner one below the thermostat housing; as a reminder all studs came out with 5+ threads left)

Question for you guys: anything alarming or abnormal?
All that was photographed BEFORE cleaning..

Thank you !!!

[Surcouf]

Distributor

So distributor: the bottom of the distributor, just before it "enters" the "auxiliary casing" suffered a lot from corrosion. The "collar on the distributor body, that is supposed to be held in place by the distributor hold down bracket, has just disappeared...

Past 4 years I never had any ignition issues. My intention was to treat all corrosion issues of course, but not to remove the bracket or the distributor itself. Any comment on that? bad idea?

Thank you !!!!

[Surcouf]

OK that looks very ugly I know...

has anybody seen anything like this and still been able to solve the corrosion (and its root cause), treat the block, paint it, and put it back in operation?
All this was already chiseled away, and will undergo POR-15 treatment soon.

[Surcouf]

And so a few questions (new and pending answers):

Question 1: I removed the oil sump, without removing the reversing gear housing, just loosening the lower 3 bolts on the rear flange. Am I now obligated to remove the large nut at the back to change the round rear flange gasket?

Question 2: If the question 1 answer is yes, while I am doing so, is it a lot of work to change the rear thrust bearing and the rear oil seal, and can it be done without removing the reversing gear ?

Question 3: in the previous post with pictures taken after removing the head, are these block damages? or typical and normal?

Question 4: see my distributor question above. Is that a bad decision?

Question 5: question on corrosion in previous post

Thank you for your help!!!

[Peter]

Question #2 - I changed the rear main seal and thrust bearing without removing the reversing gear. There is an excellent Tech Tip video on this topic available from our host.

https://moyermarine.com/product/video-tech-tip-oilsealwindows_clip_01_568/

The link is to the Windows version - there is a Mac version available as well.

And lots more video resources if you browse the online catalog a bit.

Peter

[Surcouf]

Question #2 - I changed the rear main seal and thrust bearing without removing the reversing gear. There is an excellent Tech Tip video on this topic available from our host.

https://moyermarine.com/product/video-tech-tip-oilsealwindows_clip_01_568/

The link is to the Windows version - there is a Mac version available as well.

And lots more video resources if you browse the online catalog a bit.

Peter

OK I downloaded all videos... that answers question 2. I will try to do so without the expensive tools, likely building them if needed. thank you !

[Surcouf]

Winter is coming... so it gets colder in the garage. Harder to find motivation...

- Yesterday I tried to tackle the 3 broken bolts (2 on oil pan, one on the coil bracket). I was able to make 3 nice drills, without touching the threads... on broke 2 Easy-outs. These things are useless. Anyway, I will be back on them with a torch for heating and a welder. I hate those things...
- same failure with the large rear bolt on the shaft. I have the video from MM, and tried a very large spanner, impact gun, with no luck. I think that bolt is going to get cut with the Dremmel tonight, unless somebody has a better idea.

- Water pump: disassembled the Oberdorfer water pump, and realized once the shaft was out that the greasing cup would in fact not push any grease to that shaft... I remove the small fitting (the one the cup screws on), that seems to be a kind of check-valve? It is hard to see what is exactly inside that fitting, and I could not find a way to disassemble that small element.
Question for you guys: Any idea of what is inside that fitting? Any replacement available? (not on MM)

[Sam]

I carefully take the shaft and impeller out every year for winter layup. I grease it for spring reassembly. About a dozen years ago I noticed the same problem that he cup was not squeezing in grease with a 1/2 turn. I took the cup and fitting off - remembered it looked like a small spring loaded check valve. I cleaned it well & let it soak for a bit in some degreaser/carb cleaner. Has worked well since, don't think you may need a new one.

[Surcouf]

I am against torture.... but when somebody refuses to collaborate, at one point violence may be necessary!!!

[ndutton]

We have found an impact wrench makes pretty quick work of the coupler nut. Did you try that?

[Surcouf]

We have found an impact wrench makes pretty quick work of the coupler nut. Did you try that?

I saw that in the previous thread, but did not work. But my impact gun is only an electrical one, not a pneumatic one, so less torque. Anyway, after 2 Dremel cuts. It gave up.
Now the Sleeve does not want to come out neither. So extractor tomorrow

[Surcouf]

So without an extractor of some kind there was no way it would ever go out .... as said by the Boss mr Don, it is not less than a “soft fit”, so I will be able to re-use it

[Surcouf]

Educating the youngest generation to the basics of thermodynamics... testing the thermostat